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Yeah, I was going to fab something until I realized that the valve cover on my motor barely comes off due to the shift cable plate on the gearbox. I have no room left. Even if I did, the belt would have to be custom.

I have a 2021 Massimo MXU 1000. Last winter the front drive shaft sheared off inside the motor and it was cheaper to buy a new motor than to take it apart in order to remove the front drive shaft that was broken inside the case… Now it is running rich, seems to maybe be geared too high, does not accelerate well once you hit about 28mph. I’ve replaced the O2 sensor. MAF is next (I accidentally ordered the wrong one, but when I removed the old one you can clearly smell fuel). I’m not a motorhead but I can turn a wrench. Any ideas how to get this motor optimized? The motor has about 300 miles on it. I broke it in as recommended in the manual.

Only thing I can think of that you haven't already done is look at the fuel pump. There is a filter on it but you have to pull the pump to look at it. If that is the problem consider installing an inline filter before the pump.

Greetings All, I'm looking for the most effective way to quiet the noise inside the cab. The cab virtually sits atop the 24hp diesel engine. It's very loud and so I'm looking for ways to make inside the cab quieter.

Well, it appears all it needed was some time. After several attempts, it started to idle just fine. After reassuring myself that it appeared to be running well, I took it out on the road for some "run" time. It was sluggish to get rolling (like the belt wasn't gripping) but after a few miles it got much better. I think it had been sitting for quite a while and things just needed to break in a little. After several miles both the engine and drive train seems to function normally (at least what I would expect). The only thing that concerns me at this point is the high-end engine RPM. Does anyone know what kind of max- RPM's I could/should expect from the engine? Right now it seems to start bogging down in the over 4k range (sometimes it will get to 4200). Not sure where the ECM starts clipping the RPM's at. The ECM I purchased at Motorcycle Doctor was the "enhanced tune" unit that is supposed to allow for another 500-RPM's. Is 4k all I can expect from the engine ? Additionally, occasionally, the engine hesitates a little from a complete stop, but quickly picks up and takes off. That may work itself out with some more miles on it. But all in all... things are looking promising at this point. It appears the ECM (the WRONG ECM) was the main issue from the beginning. I suspect when the original owner bought the new ECM, and that didn't work to get the engine running again... he threw his hands up and quit. Little did he know that either he ordered the wrong ECM, or, the company simply pulled and shipped the wrong one.

Quick test. Sounds like the fuel pump is not keeping up with demand. After the 30 sec or so run time, and starts to die, give it a wiff of starter fluid and see if it recovers........fuel starved. Key OFF wait 5 sec or so....Key ON only------no start position. The fuel pump is turned on for about 5 sec to PRIME/PRESSURIZE fuel rail.....signal is from the ECM.......wait it out for time out......then start. Listen for the short prime time running. Start.....ECM should now keep the fuel pump full time. Put a test light on the pump connector (clamp to Gnd) and check for 12v. Then reverse the clamp connector from Ground to a hot +12v.....you can now check for a good ground at the connector.

UPDATE: Got the new ECU today. Installed it and the engine fired right up ! Success... but it will only idle for about 30-45 seconds, then dies like someone cut the power. Cycle the key and it fires right back up, and I'm talking immediately. Runs another 30-45 seconds, then dies again. Plenty of fuel pressure, will test again tomorrow to get actual numbers. Right now I'm thinking Idle Air Control. I'll remove that tomorrow and check it out. I have no idea how long the machine has been sitting without running. Good news is though, the engine sounds strong when it is running. I'll report back on any progress.

Hi Friends, Newly produced 650, 1100 rear differential will be available soon. If anyone need these differential, please send email to me at [email protected]. Some CV Axles for Joyner is still available but inventory is low. you can also contact me if you need. Thanks Casey / Leaf Asia 2025-03-28

I've been having misfire issues with my UTV 400 when it gets warm and I've thrown all kinds of parts at it so far with no permanent resolution. Today I removed the O2 sensor and it is black on the end. To me that means it's running rich and/or the sensor isn't working. I replaced the sensor with a new one and will see how it goes I guess. With EFI, I'm wondering why the sensor would be this way with low hours and mileage? Is there a way to adjust or lean out fueling on these? Thanks in advance.

I was randomly and briefly able to connect to my Coleman UTV 400s ECU the other day twice and haven't been able to since. When I was able to access it, I found the following codes and wondered if anyone may know where I should start or what I should look at? P0031 - O2 Sensor Heater Control Voltage Low P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometer Pressure Voltage Low P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Voltage High P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Voltage High P0650 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) failure

Just picked up a Cub Cadet 500 that had shift issues (corroded fan gear) which I fixed. It also didn't seem to be running smoothly then all of a sudden it got worse. It seems to miss on both idle and when pushing the gas pedal to the floor and doesn't seem to be running at full power. I've been working with a local person who is walking me through some steps, but I'd like some input from this group as well. What I've done: - drained the fuel tank and replaced it with 93 octane fuel and added heet to help with any water problems. - replaced the fuel injector. - disconnected the battery (several times) to allow the module to reset. - set the valve clearance, both intake and exhaust, within specs ... intake was tight but exhaust seemed fine. - replaced the battery. - replaced the O2 sensor. Nothing has helped. Not sure what the next steps are, but would appreciate any expertise that can be offered here.

Just picked up a Hisun 500 that had shift issues (corroded fan gear) which I fixed. It also didn't seem to be running smoothly then all of a sudden it got worse. It seems to miss on both idle and when pushing the gas pedal to the floor and doesn't seem to be running at full power. I've been working with a local person who is walking me through some steps, but I'd like some input from this group as well. What I've done: - drained the fuel tank and replaced it with 93 octane fuel and added heet to help with any water problems. - replaced the fuel injector. - disconnected the battery (several times) to allow the module to reset. - set the valve clearance, both intake and exhaust, within specs ... intake was tight but exhaust seemed fine. - replaced the battery. - replaced the O2 sensor. Nothing has helped. Not sure what the next steps are, but would appreciate any expertise that can be offered here.

Russ When I fabbed the first mount A belt dealer went to great lengths to find one`. He finally found one like you about 47" but only available in a width of about 1". This belt didn't last any time and it shredded. I modified my mount to allow the stock belt tio fit. On the stock belt, do some googling. I found one under 100.

I replaced the defective battery and everything is back to normal. Installed digital volt meter shows 51.9 volts when fully charged. Am again able to climb the steep hills on my property. I did not replace the expensive Discovery battery. I used a deep cycle marine 6 volt battery.

Sorry to hear that, good that you found a solution.

Good point thanks!

Is there a code reader available for the Coleman UTV 400? I tried using the HUD ECU Hacker software and cables/adapters but no luck OBD to delphi 6 pin and KKL VAG as well as ELM327. Will not connect. I was able to get it to connect randomly a couple of times, but haven't been able to since. I was able to clear and read the codes briefly. I'm aware of the Tiny Scan 301 but it doesn't seem to be readily available. There's a few out there but they are expensive.

hello, i need help figuring out where all these wires go on this battery. I can't seem to find any pictures diagrams. As to what should or shouldn't be attached and where these two plugs go, that aren't plugged in. this was got as a project. would run then die and battery would have to be jumped off to start again stator has now been replaced but any help with this wiring would be appreciated.

HS800.....should be HS500. See Motorcycle Doctor store....has several units for the HiSun 500. While you are talking, confirm the flywheel P/N also. Talk about going 20 steps backwards...............been there as we usually ended up with the dogs after $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ wasted and they did NOT usually get the "good" parts back as there are no returns on electrical. My personal best was a Honda 350 ATV. Dead IGNITION. 3 H shops, 1 Independent. Shotgun parts. Had thick folder. From Chicago area. Drove down and stood in line a busy (pulled up front) Sat AM. Seen ALL parts for the IGN replaced shop WO parts list. Clue: Asked what he used it for. IDNR food plots. OH! Took clip lead and meter to his PU. T/S in the bed......first guess at the sales counter was right. Run. Boss didn't even know I left. He was charged for 7 minutes. MY take on the whole story...............exhaust cam wear and low compression was the initial killer. CHOW.....hope you finally win. BEN

Hello, we recently got a 2013 Hisun 800 as a little project for my husband and I to work on. Turns out the guys before us loved the mud anyway. We have replaced the stator and now going to do the Rectifier but here is the hold up as seen in the picture. There are tons of wires going to the battery. I cant seem to find anything that shows what wires should, or shouldn't be attached to the battery or where these 2 plugs go. if someone would please take some pics or share knowledge to where they go I would appreciate it greatly.

Ben... I have attached a picture of the ECM. It's a MT05, but I am confused if my MT05 is the correct one for my single piston engine, or the ECU for a single piston engine is a completely different part number. If the MT05 is NOT the correct part number for my engine... then this whole situation of crank but no start makes sense. From what I understand about the history of the machine, it quit, and in spite of throwing parts at it (including a new ECM), it never started again. As I understand it, it appeared the fuel pump stopped working so they replaced it with a new one. When that didn't cure the problem they eventually arrived at taking a look inside the fuse/relay box to see if any fuses or relays were broken. They damaged the box trying to get it open, and called it quits, and sold it to the guy I bought it off of. He ordered the relay/fuse box but sold it to me before the part arrived. He gave me the part after it arrived but of course that didn't cure the no start issue. When I got it the issue seemed to suggest a timing issue so I checked the valve lash clearances. It was then that I saw the lobe for the exhaust lobe was about half worn off. I figured that by the time I paid for a new cam, rockers, and valves, etc. I could just buy a complete head assembly for a few bucks more. I didn't think the cam was wore off enough to keep the engine from starting, but it was worn enough that it needed to be replaced, and now would be a good time rather than later. Regarding the question about prior techs swapping pins, I think there is less than a 1% chance of that having happened. I will call Motorcycle Doctor tomorrow morning and see what ECM I should have. I bought the head from them, and also a seat assembly so they have had some business from me recently. Thanks...

I. Fabbed a new motor mount for. That purpose. You have to check clearance on the shifting lever. If u are unable to do that you will have to call the belt dealers online till u find one that will help you. They are cheaper anyway.

Hisunpartscentral.com to look up part numbers. Then, search the part number and description on ebay.