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That is a bummer. Nothing like that for me. It gets cold here at 6900 ft, and I've never had an instance of the issues like you mention. My driveway has a significant hill (50 ft rise over 300 ft) and we power up it no problem with a full load of slash (on the big bed, piled high) and two people. I'd reach out to Landmaster directly to see if they have ideas.

Hey Team, our issue is not as bad as some I've read here... We put some songs one a 64GB USB stick, plugged it in and the USB icon is still greyed out and won't let you select. Any suggestions? All the songs are in the root directory. Thanks, Kevin & Shelbie

It sounds like the rev limiter is kicking in over 5000 rpms. Check to see what the manual shows is the max rpms. That would be my guess.

So this is the second winter in a row that my AMP untamed shuts down on me while climbing our mountain. It only does it on cold days (below 25) in Alabama. I've had issues with power since day one climbing hills, an occasional problem between reverse/forward where the gears seem not to fully transition and of course the dealer can't replicate any of these on flat ground. The unit shuts down immediately, will turn back on in a few seconds but you still have to turn the selector knob back to neutral and then forward for it to go. After it does that a few times, it shuts down completely - i have to turn everthing off then back on. I might travel 10-20 yards between shut downs. Is anyone experiencing this? Seems like I might have a lemon

I'm thinking the gear senser needs adjusting, maybe it thinks its in reverse and the rev limiter kicks in.

When I am driving at 30 to 40 mph on the highway, the display will change from H (high) to R (reverse). It does not actually shift into reverse, it seems to shift into neutral and starts losing speed and the gas pedal has no effect. After the rpm/speed drops for 5 seconds or so, it changes back to H and runs fine for another minute or so. You have to try to drive it at less than 5000 rpm or so, to try and keep this from happening. Any ideas on what the problem might be? It only happens at the higher speeds.

That's a concerning list. The transmission issues are my biggest concern. I'll check with my dealer and see if they are seeing issues.

I bought mine March 2024, since then it has had the following: stuck throttle leaking windshield A/C failure broken CV joint brakes that won’t compress well enough, won’t hold stop on a slope emergency brake constantly needing to be adjusted and tightened roll up windows falling off tracks in the doors plastic rivets pop loose and fall out radiator leak transmission won’t disengage out of gear transmission bearing replacement metal shavings in transmission and oil the dealer tells me I’m not the only one with some or all the same issues.

I own a 2024 K9 with 43 hours on it. I haven't had any issues at all except for a loose hose clamp causing an antifreeze leak. Can you advise what type of issues you are having? My only consistent complaint is the loudness of the engine noise inside the cab.

Mine had a small plastic sock kinda thing on the end of a tube. It was all clogged and broken down. Maybe some are different.

Thanks. I tested compression which is over 100. Since my most recent post I've also looked at the fuel system and wondering if there's something that is affecting fuel flow. I pulled the lines and blew them out but could not find a filter. Also, I wonder if I made a mistake when adjusting the valves. Intake was tight but exhaust was still good. After doing it, though, I fear I didn't have it at TDC. I couldn't find the marks so spun it around to just after the exhaust opened and closed but before intake opened and closed. TDC is on the compression stroke if I remember correctly (I'm not a mechanic, just a guy who isn't afraid to get his hands dirty) which would be between intake opening but before exhaust, right?

Thanks for this. I pulled the pump but cannot find a filter or screen. I didn't want to disassemble it without knowing more. I'll look at installing an inline filter ... good idea.

I own a K9 with 50hrs that has been in for repair more than once the farm. Multitude of issues, trying to file lemon on it but interested in knowing if owners are organizing for a class action suit. The dealer informs me there are “a lot of owners very unhappy with these”. Thanks

Hey UTV Board stie Admins: The board needs to award Ben1098 the UTV Board "Medal of Honor". !! 👍👍👍

Just a thought here...how is compression? Too tight exhaust can burn a seat and leave you with poor compression.

Yeah, I was going to fab something until I realized that the valve cover on my motor barely comes off due to the shift cable plate on the gearbox. I have no room left. Even if I did, the belt would have to be custom.

I have a 2021 Massimo MXU 1000. Last winter the front drive shaft sheared off inside the motor and it was cheaper to buy a new motor than to take it apart in order to remove the front drive shaft that was broken inside the case… Now it is running rich, seems to maybe be geared too high, does not accelerate well once you hit about 28mph. I’ve replaced the O2 sensor. MAF is next (I accidentally ordered the wrong one, but when I removed the old one you can clearly smell fuel). I’m not a motorhead but I can turn a wrench. Any ideas how to get this motor optimized? The motor has about 300 miles on it. I broke it in as recommended in the manual.

Only thing I can think of that you haven't already done is look at the fuel pump. There is a filter on it but you have to pull the pump to look at it. If that is the problem consider installing an inline filter before the pump.

Greetings All, I'm looking for the most effective way to quiet the noise inside the cab. The cab virtually sits atop the 24hp diesel engine. It's very loud and so I'm looking for ways to make inside the cab quieter.

Well, it appears all it needed was some time. After several attempts, it started to idle just fine. After reassuring myself that it appeared to be running well, I took it out on the road for some "run" time. It was sluggish to get rolling (like the belt wasn't gripping) but after a few miles it got much better. I think it had been sitting for quite a while and things just needed to break in a little. After several miles both the engine and drive train seems to function normally (at least what I would expect). The only thing that concerns me at this point is the high-end engine RPM. Does anyone know what kind of max- RPM's I could/should expect from the engine? Right now it seems to start bogging down in the over 4k range (sometimes it will get to 4200). Not sure where the ECM starts clipping the RPM's at. The ECM I purchased at Motorcycle Doctor was the "enhanced tune" unit that is supposed to allow for another 500-RPM's. Is 4k all I can expect from the engine ? Additionally, occasionally, the engine hesitates a little from a complete stop, but quickly picks up and takes off. That may work itself out with some more miles on it. But all in all... things are looking promising at this point. It appears the ECM (the WRONG ECM) was the main issue from the beginning. I suspect when the original owner bought the new ECM, and that didn't work to get the engine running again... he threw his hands up and quit. Little did he know that either he ordered the wrong ECM, or, the company simply pulled and shipped the wrong one.

Quick test. Sounds like the fuel pump is not keeping up with demand. After the 30 sec or so run time, and starts to die, give it a wiff of starter fluid and see if it recovers........fuel starved. Key OFF wait 5 sec or so....Key ON only------no start position. The fuel pump is turned on for about 5 sec to PRIME/PRESSURIZE fuel rail.....signal is from the ECM.......wait it out for time out......then start. Listen for the short prime time running. Start.....ECM should now keep the fuel pump full time. Put a test light on the pump connector (clamp to Gnd) and check for 12v. Then reverse the clamp connector from Ground to a hot +12v.....you can now check for a good ground at the connector.

UPDATE: Got the new ECU today. Installed it and the engine fired right up ! Success... but it will only idle for about 30-45 seconds, then dies like someone cut the power. Cycle the key and it fires right back up, and I'm talking immediately. Runs another 30-45 seconds, then dies again. Plenty of fuel pressure, will test again tomorrow to get actual numbers. Right now I'm thinking Idle Air Control. I'll remove that tomorrow and check it out. I have no idea how long the machine has been sitting without running. Good news is though, the engine sounds strong when it is running. I'll report back on any progress.

Hi Friends, Newly produced 650, 1100 rear differential will be available soon. If anyone need these differential, please send email to me at [email protected]. Some CV Axles for Joyner is still available but inventory is low. you can also contact me if you need. Thanks Casey / Leaf Asia 2025-03-28

I've been having misfire issues with my UTV 400 when it gets warm and I've thrown all kinds of parts at it so far with no permanent resolution. Today I removed the O2 sensor and it is black on the end. To me that means it's running rich and/or the sensor isn't working. I replaced the sensor with a new one and will see how it goes I guess. With EFI, I'm wondering why the sensor would be this way with low hours and mileage? Is there a way to adjust or lean out fueling on these? Thanks in advance.