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if i cannot see, feel, operate a piece of equipment, i am not interested..............

All you can do is be honest with them. Tell of any trouble you've had and how you've fixed them. Tell them to research the name and find out for themselves. As long as your honest you can have a clean conscience. As far as the price and what it's worth. That is up to the buyer. One person may say it's not worth a $100 and another person would give full asking price and not try to talk you down. Whatever the buyer is willing to pay. That is what it's worth.

I'm retired contractor..no more interviews or training for me. No boss to fire me..except maybe the wife. Lol. Spend my time thinking...what fun thing can I do tomorrow? Life is 👍

Congrats!!!!

Been there done that. Got the DD214 to prove it. Still can't be an artist. Said my condition was not service related. LOL Just got a call from the GF at new company. Said he'd send me a list of what to bring for orientation and training and I'd start on Jan 7th. My future is looking so bright I've got to wear shades.

Exactly. When the guys came and picked up the truck. I took multiple pics of everything. SN, items turned on and working, ECT. Then cut CC up in tiny pieces. Even pics of odometer showing miles and fuel gauge. Outside and inside of vehicle and trailer. Did those when I received also. In case I was accused of any damage. When I went to the union the day after I quit. I was told that this Union hall had never sent anyone to that company in over 8 years. Asked it there was anything they could do so this to keep this company from taking advantage of the guys still there. Union said nothing they could do except file a grievance if I wanted my job back. Said no cause the company would still find a way to get rid of me. And if I wanted to to stay there I wouldn't have quit. Talked to a guy still working there the week after I quit. He said the company changed their policy and started to pay drive from the company lot to the 1st job of the day and back to the lot. But that was what the union contract stated in the 1st place. Except the union contract put it as the headquarters instead of company lot. So maybe I did help out the remaining guys in the long run. It has to work out. No other choice. LOL. But really I want to be an artist. Sit on the couch and draw a check every month. LOL

My money is on the carb needle/seat

Alien10 I didn't think any disrespect was implied or intended. I really didn't get offended in any way, shape, fashion or form. I REALLY did appreciate the education on the workings of the compression tester. And truly never thought about how it worked. And as a man that knows it all (joke intended), I didn't read the directions. Or didn't receive any. I've had this for 5 years. And either the directions never came with it or walked away. And if I've offended anyone with the blonde comment, I truly apologize. Didn't mean to. It's just a running joke between me and my wife. Anyway, all good. Thanks again.

I might be misinterpreting the compression test results you've posted. Wouldn't be the first thing I've screwed up this morning! But, most if not all compression testers have a one way valve. That is to record the highest compression pressures it sees during the test. It will leave the gauge at that highest level, even it there is no compression left in the engine's cylinder after it stops cranking, until the release valve is pushed to release it back to zero. I'm thinking that your 130 and 125 pressure readings, after being left for 15 to 20 minutes are just the pressure captured and retained by the gauge and hose? Reason is I've never seen an engine cylinder that will retain 125 lbs of compression more than a dozen seconds as those peak pressures bleed down fairly rapidly through the rings. Those are by no means anywhere near a perfect seal. Your last results would seem to show a bubble was left in the system that you have now released. Great detective work! Maybe its time to just run the machine as you normally would paying attention to the temperature, coolant level and its appearance, and of course importantly, the oil level and its appearance. If you have a head gasket issue, it will soon show up in the coolant or oil being compromised.

@Alien10 These kind of crooks have been around since the street fairs and carnivals. I was involved in pinching one about 20 years ago. This scam sent out faxes with an invoice for something that pertained to the type of business. They had the Yellow books for the whole nation and operated out of 6 to 8 centers around the US. For instance. elec got wire or terminals. Ag equip got filters etc. You would have to work in an office environment to realize how many invoices get paid with just a payables clerk approval. ThaT is why PO #'s and matching is so important. hey sent these out by the thousands and I would be willing to say 50% were paid. Many of these little clerks paid the bill because they were afraid not to if the big boss had ordered it and he got a phone call. Also a big part of using the fax machines was that it couldn't be prosecuted under Federal Law.If they mailed an invoice it was considered mail fraud and the Postal inspectors could track them to the end of the world. I had located one of their office spaces and a tip to the FBI got me a phone call for what I knew. Never found out the outcome but was glad to help. Nothing I hate worst than a thief. Everyone needs to stay diligent on the web. If it looks too good to be true it probably is!

Look for tiny bubbles in the coolant recovery bottle while running and normal temp or hot. Mine never got coolant in the oil but looked like Alka Seltzer in the recovery bottle.

Couple of other thoughts... A head gasket can fail to the oil passages, to the coolant system, or to the outside air. Are you getting excessive crank case blow by? Is there any external compression leakage? Are you getting combustion gases in the coolant system? Cap off coolant system shouldn't be expelling gases or pressure. Has the coolant level dropped or increased? Does the coolant appear to be contaminated in any way? (Oily, brownish tinge etc.) Just a few things that came to mind. Good luck.

Good news! Its fixed! Thanks Greg and others for all the comments. Really appreciate it. No matter what I tried, I was not able to adjust the shift rod to enable it to cycle thru all the gears. I removed the shift rod and opened the gear fan case. The issue turned out to be the fan gears being corroded. The pic shows the corrosion but it is hard to see how bad the teeth were. I was able to get it fixed by replacing the gear fan and then adjusting the shift rod linkage. This is a walkthru for replacing it. www.youtube.com/watch?v=FABLVRLNHtY Its now shifting better then it did when I first got it.

Alien10, I think this is just the rear differential. The plug is also the speed sensor. It has wires coming out of the plug and a connection for the wires maybe 12 inches from the plug. At least on my axis 500 anyway. I know on my axis 500 the engine oil is also shared with the transmission. The engine oil is also the oil bath for the wet clutch. At least on the Axis 500. BMurph, It is possible that the water was just in the shifter paw cover. Or maybe a previous repair where water got in the oil. The repair was made and it corrected the issue. And the shift paw cover wasn't cleaned. Best of luck and welcome to the forum.

There are other videos on YouTube showing installed eps. Hisun has a video as well. The videos may help explain the installation.

I'm no expert, and live in Michigan. I think various states have their own laws, but most require standard UTV equipment plus emergency brake, horns, signals head lights and tail lights including running, brake and turn signals, and seat belts. There are sites to help by state. Here is just one of them. https://www.dirtlegal.com/street-legal-utv-guide

Thanks and I appreciate the feedback

I have a 2017 Massimo 500 that is locked in 4 wheel drive don’t know if the switch is working or if it’s something else does it have a fuse for the switch

Joe, I’m gonna look for a try “One Bite” , so far I’ve spent $800 repairing wire & electrical damage to my ATVs caused by mice in my garage. A friend has spent $4000 getting his John Deer tractor wiring redone because of Mouse damage as well. I am somewhat restricted because I have two dogs and Grandchildren around and therefore need to be very careful with any type of chemicals…..otherwise I would have my Garage GLOWING like a Nuclear Reactor !!

So here is my dilemma, I bought a 2014 Massimo MSU500 eleven years ago from TSC, its never been off the farm, had my share of ups and downs with it but never walked back to the house. I have bought a Kubota Sidewinder and it is a fine machine.Problem is I just dont need the Massimo and would like to sell it but the last thing want to do is sell it (cheap) to someone who doesn't realize what a POS a Massimo can be and can't afford to maintain it. I plan to put it of Craigslist with pictures and description, not sure how to warn potiential buyers without scaring them away. I feel like it could be a great buy for the right person or a terrible buy for the wrong person. I'm thinking $2500.

Anyone looking for a cheap used UTV expects there to be issues..it's not new..Tell them what you have repaired and let them drive it and decide..My 17 MSU 500 is actually better now than when I first bought it..I am sure it won't leave me walking miles home.🖖

Greasing the rear u-joints made an incredible difference.

Honestly she actually pretty great..15 yrs younger than me.. my 3rd. One.

As said be honest, save your conscience, I just sold a 2015 Stryker 600 for 3500 CAD with a broken front diff actuator mount/diff housing. Otherwise machine was clean and had Been full serviced, oil brakes belt, bearings..... go on... Flat out said 4800 with new front diff installed or as is, guy took as is... not my problem, honest. 😁

If your wife/boss is anything like mine. I feel sorry for ya' brother.

We use one that does not appear on the list. Came directly from DeltaQ, as we use a pack that finishes charge at around 63 volt. But the last 3 volts are at a much reduced charge rate, otherwise the charger would be over rated. But it works ok for us. It also has the issue that the charger will give a fault code(but still works) if it the pack is connected to he charger at over 60v. Voltage has to drop below 59v and then it resets. We also re profile the cutback table in the Sevcon to reflect a safe use of the pack, cutting back in a series of stages, and cutting back at the top end (deals with overcharge from regen when charged) .

You need to work for the govt to do that🤣

I would also add that it depends on the replacement batteries you select. The company I used (ReLion) had a custom algorithm they made just for their batteries and sent me the file and instructions to flash the Delta Q charger. That was all I needed to make the charger work like before.

You will need the appropriate algorithm from the DeltaQ website (if they have one) you also need to have a way of stopping the charge by integration with the BMS. You can also get a on/ off addition thats from DeltaQ and that enables the ic1200 to be externally controlled by using the temp sensor connections. Follow the IC1200 instructions . Its often really hard to do as the push switch is hard find and a pain to operate

Hope things improve...MERRY CHRISTMAS 🖖

Maybe all are aware of auction and equipment sales scams. On another forum, I've done some research on scam auction sites for big ag equipment and have noticed that it has spread to autos and smaller stuff in the past year or two. One was very sophisticated, including stolen IDs of known persons giving rave reviews of the auction site many going back several years to lend credence to the fake site. The site was in fact less that one month old. The business address was a storage facility with no signage with a couple being just high rise office buildings. The three I've looked into have used this three initials plus "auction.com" format or similar. "XXXauction.com". Ran across a new one 2 weeks ago in Craigslist. Had some nice cars and trucks at auction, but visiting their auction site, the all too familiar red flags were all there and despite claims of 20 years in business the site was set up first week of November 2014. First big clue and giant red flag is the prices shown. Usually 40% of what the equipment is worth, maybe less. Red Flags: Prices are exceptionally low. Absurd delivery fees ie; 60 cents per mile, or $500 flat fee, anywhere in the US. Moped or Army tank, all the same. Some buttons on site do not work. Auction closes shortly. Terms of payment always requires a wire transfer, no checks, no credit cards, only wire transfers. (Once a wire transfer is sent, there is no recourse, you can't get it back or get a refund). You get invoiced with remittance bank account numbers to wire your money to. Photos are stolen from legitimate sellers or auctions. Often past sales and past auctions. Inability for you or your rep to inspect the machine. Try calling and arranging an inspection, they won't do it for dozens of reasons. These scammers award "winning bid" to literally everyone who submits a bid. They send an invoice with remittance directions. Once you wire them money you even get a receipt. Then comes days of emails back and forth to set up the so called "shipment" of your equipment. Of course that will fizzle out in a few days. By then your money is long gone offshore and you will not get it back or get anything for it. Just think of how lucrative this scam is. Lets say a high end UTV all decked out shows on an auction closing tomorrow. Nationally, they get 67 bidders all of whom get their "winning bidder invoices" and pay by wire transfer. Lets say average of $14,000 per bidder. That's $938,000 on one fake auction UTV that no one will ever get. Do this in 10 auctions in a week, do the math!!! I've seen agricultural combines sold this way for around $89,000 to $100,000, How many winning bidders...no one knows. But multiply that by 50 or 60 winning bidders. Get the point? Don't fall for this stuff, it is created, dies out, then gets recreated every 30 days or so. Don't become a victim.

Greg, no disrespect intended for sure. Exactly how do you think I figured out how the compression tester's valve works? The first one I had was used and with no instructions. Thought it was broken. Went to put it away and hit that little brass button hidden under the neck of the gauge, and "PSSST ..." the gauge returned to zero!🤔 Don't be so hard on yourself, you're doing just fine!. We've all been there and worse,.....in my case, a LOT worse. Plenty of scars and a couple bits of missing flesh to show for it. Guess I should be thankful to have survived 7 decades! Wouldn't trade any of it including those most embarrassing moments for a million bucks. You're doing better than most, keep at it, success awaits only those who keep on keepin' on.

Alien10, Dude, I'm not blonde, but I never, never. Never thought or realized THERE IS NO WAY on GODS GREEN EARTH a cylinder would keep the pressure. My my my, I should hang up my tools, and just take up knitting. Any leaking has to come from the Schrader valves in the compression tester hose. I'm just doing a leak down test on the hose connection and hardware. Alien10, thanks for explaining this. Making me realize what I was doing wasn't what I thought I was doing. Man, do I feel dumb. Some people shouldn't own tools. LOL guess I'm one. I'm a little (lot) embarrassed. But maybe others will learn from my mistake. I'm still going to jack this beast up in the air and try the bleeding thing again.

I don't need any stinkin TEMU coupons

Good luck..hope it's cured

Thank You

The TPS does control idle, but other items can cause idle issues, such as a vacuum leak, carbon on the throttle plate and even a timing issue. Unfortunately Massimo doesn't produce detailed trouble shooting information on their UTV's.

I can't mark any comment as the answer because both members that helped me diagnose this beast has provided the correct information to diagnose the issue. Thanks to both Alien10 and Joe Breaux for the help. With the information both provided I'm 100% sure there is a blown head gasket. The breach of gasket material seems to be between the coolant channel and the combustion chamber. Now all that remains is do I down the machine myself or take to shop. That is going to depend if I can get an enclosed place to work on this beast. LOL Thanks guys I appreciate the help.

I'm gonna say that a "stuck float" is the best possible answer. The pressure from the gravity feed was likely enough to push open the float valve.

Compression test clarification question. Did you get 120lbs that then bled down to 105 in 15 minutes of sitting? Or did you do a second test 15 minutes later and only got 105lbs. Remember, rings and pistons are not complete seals, they all naturally leak. Max compression is only required to be present during the power stroke, and for a fraction of a second. If there's no coolant in the oil, what else has convinced you of a failed head gasket? You might consider additional testing before tearing into the engine.

Been there..I had to pay to get it done because I had just had back surgery. Did not appear to be to difficult but after replacing gasket we realized the head was cracked..better check yours while it's off. This is a common issue on Hisun engine.I honestly think they don't torque the head bolts during assembly. None of mine were .good luck

I am trying to find a dash and hood for my Bulldog. Any help will be greatly appreciated. I am restoring it or trying too. Just no luck on a replacement for these at all.

Alien 10, I have to hold my shifter in place like that to click in, and stay in gear. I think it’s a linkage adjustment, but I’ve never taken the time to work on it.

From what I could tell from the video. The guy just adjusted the shift rod, gear selector, and the indicator light to be lit for whatever gear the transmission was actually it. And not adjusting the actual transmission for the shifter. If that makes any sense. In other words he had the transmission shifted into high, then moved the shifter itself into high before loosening the shift rod to adjust the high lamp indicator to be lit. In doing so, he may have actually changed the position of the transmission into low or neutral. If so, the transmission could have been in low, for example and the shifter and indicator light could have indicated high. Make sense? I'd still remove the shift rod, then make sure the transmission shift easily into low, high, neutral, and reverse. You may need to rock the machine forward and/or backward just a little. And make sure there is not a lot of slop/slack in between the positions. Then move the transmission into reverse (or low), then move the gear shift handle into reverse (or low), then eyeball and adjust the shift rod to fit into the location. Then adjust the rod length to make sure the correct directional indicator lamp is lit. Then move the selector into the other positions and adjust the rod as needed. I haven't looked at mine and the diagram doesn't say. But I'd bet the shift indicator selector switch is located somewhere near the shift selector handle. Does any of this makes sense? I'm not a mechanic, so take the advice as someone that is just trying to help. Remember listen to me at your own risk. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

There is an actual service manual for these machines on this site. Can't remember who posted, the name, or download link. But search the manual library and you can find it. Here are some diagrams. 0 (The items numbers are off according to the description on 261 and 262) I didn't view the posted video. If it was me, after following the directions above to adjust the linkage and still was having issues. I'd completely disconnect the adjustment rod. (Item 5 on page 261.) Then check item 7 and item 9 on page 261 to make sure item 7 is engaged cause it looks like item 7 has a oblong slot that fits around the shift lever 1 assembly circuled in red in red in bottom picture (cover removed). That actually shifts transmission. Item 9 is the nut that holds item 7 in place. Then see if the transmission will shift into a forward gear by moving item 7 by hand instead of the shift handle. If so, then reattach the shift rod and adjust accordingly. When I shift my 500 into low, I have to apply just a little throttle to make the transition. I probably need to adjust my shift rod as well. Hope this helps some or at least points you in the right direction to resolve your issue. I'll watch the link and repost if I think of something else. I'm not a mechanic, so take the advice as someone that is just trying to help. Remember listen to me at your own risk. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

I have not installed it yet. But it would need to be installed where it can be accessed by hand with two brake lines run to a brake line going to the UTV's brake line. It would be like cutting the brake line and installing the valve. How it works is you put pressure on the brake fluid with the brake pedal, activate the valve and it holds the pressure, thus holding the brakes, until you depress the brake pedal again that releases the valve and thus releases the brakes when you let up on the pedal.

R, next time it stops get out and see if the brake lights are on. The brake lights will shut off the motor and the brake light switch is problematic. May not be your problem, but is worth looking at.

I picked up a 10x17 just in case last weekend that was on sale for $179.

At least they talk to you... Massimo just hangs up when the hear the word PROBLEM or Warrenty.

Ooooh-kay. Video sheds a different light on things. Did you strip body panels or did you get it w/o the wrap? TGhose may not be avai;lab ler and if so yhou vcan probably buy a new u nit for what they will cost you. Sounds like trash in the carb `or possibly the governor sertting is off. When removing carb go easy on the four all thread rods that hold it in place. They strip easy in the manifold .I have a book on that carb, I'll find it and send to you. I've never had to change a jet but the orings may go bad. Did you get the repair manual ordered?