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My manual for 550 says the exact same thing. the pins need flared out. I think Monday i'll take it to the machine shop.

Welcome to the forum! Buy a shop service manual from the manufacturer. This will have information that sooner or later WILL be needed! Unlike a car manual, these things are only thirty bucks or so. I don't recommend any online pdf type manual, unless that's all there is to be found. There's always critical information missing. Get the actual manual. You'll need it eventually, and they get harder to find, as the machine gets older. You'll be glad you did! Have you checked the fuses, as well as the relay? And when you replaced the harness, was the main ground wire making good solid contact. Unlike a car, where everything is pretty much protected, and wires usually don't just come loose on their own. On these vehicles, sometimes running over brush, and logs etc. Not to mention general abuse/fun. Wires can get compromised. The manufacturer typically leaves the undercarriage open to this kind of damage. So if my machine gets to acting up, in such a way that seems electrical. Many times I've just crawled underneath, and found a lump of ripped up brush, hung up on some exposed wiring, wherever it's got a frame attachment point. Pull that clump out, and you sometimes find damaged wiring. Or it can pull it loose, from something else. But it can give you a place to start, in the search for whatever the issue is. I put a skid plate under mine several years ago, and haven't had any of this type of problems since. Not saying that this is your problem, but in your situation, with your machine, the way you use it. After checking the fuses, and any relays, checking the undercarriage is also necessary.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/842774/Kawasaki-Mule-610-4-4.html?page=175#manual

To find out which wire goes to the battery, use a continuity test. With the battery disconnected, and the key in the off position. Using a multi meter, set to ohms, run a jumper from the positive battery terminal, of the disconnected battery. Hook the jumper wire to one end of the meter, then probe all the terminals on the switch with the other. When you get a reading, there shouldn't be much difference between this reading, and just touching the meter terminals together. There'll probably be some difference, but not much. Then turn the key on, and find the next wire, that'll be the one that's always hot when running. Then the start wire is last. That should just about cover most of the wires on the switch, so you can track down the problem. But from what I've read so far, it seems like a ground wire problem. But if you can't get continuity at the switch then it's obviously a problem on the positive circuit.