Leaderboard

@keyif .. good idea and we already tried that, nothing .. its still sitting waiting for me to take it in to get worked on (guy side swiped me totaled my truck and trailer, trucks back I'm still cutting and welding on trailer to replace fender and axle) but between normal work an my other 2 experimental projects (deff not the kindof talk of this thread or board) and cutting wood to keep from freezing this winter I'm to busy to work on it now .. my friends still come over with a light bulb above their head smiling -> HEY I GOT AN IDEA!!! lol

Tomorrow (Or today, depending whenever you read this) Marks the 16th anniversary of 9/11, that day of the vicious attack on American soil, NEARLY 3,000 innocent people lost their lives. only since then have a little over 1,000 victims have been identified. Let us never forgot all the brave men and woman who have fought and died to protect and preserve this Great Nation! Though other nations have suffered greatly with terror attacks, we have been blessed enough to have a STRONG military, and a great president. And thanks to all the Firemen, Policemen, and military members, we can ride our UTV's with out any worries! GOD bless AMERICA

To find out which wire goes to the battery, use a continuity test. With the battery disconnected, and the key in the off position. Using a multi meter, set to ohms, run a jumper from the positive battery terminal, of the disconnected battery. Hook the jumper wire to one end of the meter, then probe all the terminals on the switch with the other. When you get a reading, there shouldn't be much difference between this reading, and just touching the meter terminals together. There'll probably be some difference, but not much. Then turn the key on, and find the next wire, that'll be the one that's always hot when running. Then the start wire is last. That should just about cover most of the wires on the switch, so you can track down the problem. But from what I've read so far, it seems like a ground wire problem. But if you can't get continuity at the switch then it's obviously a problem on the positive circuit.

Thanks for your help, Iv looked for one for hours a day, no luck an the Cub Cadet boys won't send me one like its a top secret thing lol .. you could be right but I'm unable to find anything not connected or corroded to many wires and color coding is not true .. frustratingly lost at this point I may have to take it to Cub Cadet .. grumbling!! Im sure that'll cost me but gota have it for winter hauling wood and cleaning snow from the driveway

Still sounds like a break between 12 volt power and the switch. Still looking for a wiring diagram.

25A fuse I was jumping to red not the red/black stripe I tried both red sent power to switch .. I'm not able to get to switch or the wires with 2 hands or even 1 hand just fingers without spending a lot of time tearing stuff apart just to get to the wires including the radiator and all that go's with it

Which wire are you jumping? Red or red/black? What if you jump from the battery straight to the ignition switch?

the problem I see now is there is no hot going to the switch at all I jumped it from the battery .. there must be a relay switch or something that is not letting power come the fuse box but even when I jumped the fuse box I still cant get the glow plug light to come on or starter to engage

I'm trying to figure out what color wire is the "hot" to the switch. That seems to be where the problem is. It has to have a "hot" to make every thing else work.

No. Of Positions 4No. Of Terminals 7Manufactured by Delta Systems Inc.The letters on the back of an ignition switch stand for the following:M = MagnetoS = Starter SolenoidL = LightsA = AccessoryB = BatteryG = GroundI = IgnitionR = Regulator/RectifierThe designated terminal connects in some manner to that component. For example, the B terminal connects in some manner to the positive battery cable.