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The LED light bar is worth considering. Just be sure that they have Cree LEDs.

How to change the Rear Wheel Bearings - By Rocmoc. You will need - Two rear wheel bearings, I got mine from snowman at No Limits Powersports, http://www.joyner-atv-utv.com/ but also available from Silver Bullet Motorsports, http://silverbulletmotorsports.net/ & http://www.jmcmotors.us/ Roller bearings Two seals (metric sizing), part specs TC 45 65 8 purchased from Motion Industries, http://www.motionind...LocationsMI.jsp NOTE: Page 198 of the 2009 manual, page 183 of the 2008 manual, says I need #3(03.06.13871-FB45×65× 13871-FB65X42X8 Seal FB65X42X8) and #32 (03.06.13871-FB45×65× 13871- FB65X45X8 Seal FB65X45X8) seals, but I know that the # 3 seals actually needs to be 62X42X8 Large socket set to break the nut loosen the axle holding the hub on. I have a 3/4" set and worked great. C-clip removal tool, I have one but was easier using an old screwdriver trick. Seal puller, I have a bodyman's dent removal tool with an adapter that works. This saves the old seal but you could use a screwdriver and kill the seal. Remove the wheel/tire. Remove the cotter key. Remove large nut, someone needs sit in the Trooper applying the brakes to keep the axle from turning. Remove the brake calipers, 2 bolts per caliper & two calipers per wheel in the rear for a total of 4 bolts. Slide the hub & rotor off the end of the axle. Remove the 2 bolts holding the backing hub/bearing housing to the swingarm. One on top, one on bottom. Remove the bearing housing. Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing. Remove the seal. The seal is in front of the C-clip & bearing. Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing. Remove the C-clip, can be a pain if you have never done it before. Slide the bearing out. CLEAN! That is as far as I am on one side. Waiting for the seals. Why there are seals is beyond me. The bearing is sealed so it is just extra protection. There was grease in the area between the seal & bearing. Cheap insurance so I will put it back the way I found it. I can tell the bearing has spun a very very small amount. The fit between the housing & the bearing is still very very good. Lenny's tip to locite the outside of the bearing in place to the housing is important! But will make it more difficult to remove the bearing the next time it requires replacement. Yes, my original bearing had wear & slop. IMHO not that bad but did need replacement. The bearing isn't as bad as the design of the housing is. Taper roller bearings should have been the real design but what the heck lasted 4 years. If you see anything that needs correction, please post it as a reply. I'll take note, fix, and delete your post.