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If you have coolant in the oil you need a rebuild, no telling how long it ran with poor to no lubrication.

Just bought a well used 2500 with 6,800 hours on the clock. Guy said it had a bad engine but it did run and drive when I tested it and it billowed white smoke. I found oil in the water and a disconnected fan switch. A compression test yielded 160 psi in one cylinder and 240 psi in the other. I put 15 psi in the cooling system and it dropped to zero in 30 seconds. I removed the spark plugs and put 100 psi of air into each spark plug hole and coolant few out of the uncapped radiator. So I figured I had two bad head gaskets. I took the heads of the engine and found two bad head gaskets. Cleaned them up, checked for cracks, found none and reassembled with new genuine Kawasaki head gaskets. Started engine and it ran well but smoked constantly at idle and at full throttle. Comprression test now yielded 240 psi and 245 psi which is higher than I have ever seen in any gasoline engine I have ever tested. I put 100 psi into each spark plug hole and no water or air bubbled out of the open radiator cap. When I put 15 psi into the cooling system it held pressure. Also fixed the fan switch connection and installed a digital temperature guage so I know exactly what temperature the engine is seeing and that the thermostat and cooling system is functioning properly. The engine smokes like it is worn out and needs overbored but with those great compression numbers it is had to believe. I am ready to pull the engine and tear it down but thought I would post to this forum before I did. This is my first Mule. I only paid $800 for it and might decide to just part it out depending what I find inside the engine. Brakes are good, trans works fine and there is almost no rust anywhere. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike

And you definitely want a bottle of Permatex assembly lube, a good torque wrench,shop rags, and several cans of brake parts cleaner. You want those cylinders SQUEAKY clean after honing. And another thing is check for up and down play on the Rod small end and wrist pin. Side to side is okay .

I agree not worth it, save covers for bbq's. Build a lean-to or keep in a garage. I've hunted deer in a stand with my Polaris beside the tree and a buck walked right past it within a few feet. The deer didn't seem to mind that there was no camo cover on it. A surplus camo net works if you need to hide your machine.

There is only special surface treatment on Aluminium bore engines (such as Nikasil), not Cast iron sleeves. You can hone the heck out of a iron bore engine. If you put new rings on the slick wore surface you will have a very hard time to the new ones to seal ., timing marks are correct. you should be able too get specs you need by calling or e mailing Kawasaki with your Mule or Engine model.

Post some pictures of the cylinders, how do they look? it's possible you might could squeeze by with new standard rings and a hone job. I used your location and i believe this machine shop is in your area, they seem pretty good. https://www.facebook.com/donsautoparts it would be best to have a professional measure the cylinders to determine wear on them.