Leaderboard

i used PIVOT WORKS part number, PWFWK-K36-000 Okay, first step..... Remove the wheel.... 4 lug nuts. then jack the front end up and support it with jackstands and chock the rear wheels. remove the axle nut mud cover. get a 1 1/6" socket to remove the axle nut... Don't forget to remove the cotter pin! you can use a breaker bar or impact to remove it. there is a spacer behind the axle nut, remove it also. now pull the drum off. sometimes it can be stuck on so spray some penetrating fluid between it and the backing plate, and tap it with a hammer while spinning it . you may have to use a 3 leg puller. Now that the drum/hub assembly is off, this is what you should see. the drum houses the bearings. there are 2 bearings, 1 spacer and 1 seal. the seal goes on the back of the drum, facing the brakes. the spacer goes in between the 2 bearings. Now, my manual and also my common sense told me to PRESS the bearings out. You CAN NOT press them OUT. there are 2 ridges that control the depth at which they are installed and you CAN NOT press them out.. you must use a slide hammer puller. and you have to do it 1 bearing at at a time. Don't worry, the spacer is supposed to move freely in the drum. I used the 3rd biggest puller attachment in the set. now that you have the old ones out clean the bore out with parts cleaner and a clean rag, and do the same to the spindle shaft on the mule., time to install the new ones!!! i recommend putting them in the freezer for about 30 minutes or more for ease of installation. they go in easier when cold. i used a flat piece of wood to drive them in straight and then a 13/16" socket to drive them into the ridge, they are about 3/8" below the surface. remember to do one bearing, install the spacer, then the other bearing, then the seal. the oil seal goes on the back side of the drum that goes against the backing plate on the mule. I recommend lubricating the seal lips and outer edge when installing into the drum assembly. now that the bearings are in time to Reinstall the drum! just slide it back over the spindle shaft until fully seated... install the axle nut spacer, axle nut and cotter pin. before you install the cotter pin, torque the axle nut to 110 ft lbs. reinstall the dust cap, tire, and lug nuts. lug nuts are torqued to 25 ft lbs, remove jackstands, let jack down, un chock the rear wheel. YOU ARE READY TO GO!

Hey Travis, I was just checking your manual specs against mine and here is what I come up with using an online mm to inch calculator.. The mm readings are what my manual lists. Piston ring end gap - .007 (0.2mm) - .015 (0.4mm) Piston ring thickness - .057 (1.47mm) - .058 (1.49mm) Cylinder bore - 3.070 (77.980mm) - 3.074 (78.00mm) So, the wife and I drove over to HF this morning and I picked up a set of bore gauges, piston ring compressor, a new set of inch / metric feeler gauges. Fixing to go out and remeasure everything again with the new stuff. If I can, I'll post some pictures of the bore before and after honing as long as everything is within spec. Roger