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Waiting for snow.....

Travis was on the right track. You have a strong running engine after you get it to start. The split vac hose was just a bump in the middle of the search, right? Carb/fuel problems will generate runability problems before and after starting. Bad connections, weak battery, parasitic drain, burned solenoid contacts, worn starter brushes reduce the power delivered and used to crank it over. Travis test of pulling spark plug...you said the motor spins over just fine with the spark plug removed......no load except friction and valve spring loading. You video was the TELL. Compression release is not doing it's thing. Totally random as it depends on where the motor stops (how far from the Compression stroke) AND how long the motor set since last crank/run......oil drain down and piston/rings get "DRY" lowering the compression. Fog cylinder or crank to splash/lube piston/rings....compression climbs back up. Physical example.....you want to push a small car on a level driveway into the garage. Problem is the rain shedding slope or a seam in the pours at the door. Would you push to the incline or bump and then STOP only to then try push it up the incline or over the seam??? NOPE, you would take a RUN at it. Same for the poor starter......no compression release.......grunt city per the video clip. The clip shows the "front" of engine with the intake valve cover (double lid) but not the exhaust. 3 valves? Maybe 4 valves? Should have a 2 into 1 exhaust header and 2 ea of the round screw off caps for adjusting the exhaust at the "rear" of the engine. Compression release works by SLIGHTLY opening for a SHORT time an exhaust valve during the compression stroke. Less grunt....motor gets a RUN at spinning over faster which will build compression more (less time for the slight EX valve to be open and leak off some of the fuel/air mix) to the point it is high enough to light off.... if the fuel/air mix is right. Exhaust valve adjustment is set between the rocker screw adjuster and the valve stem top face. This is important for the RUN function. The START function will be hindered if the valve is set too loose (wider gap) as it cannot open the valve slightly as much or not at all. Too tight will result leakage.....burnt valve seat/face when the whole motor warms up and EXPANDS as in the valve stem gets longer. ADJUST THE VALVES. FOR THE DOWN SIDE..................there are a couple of BAD things to go wrong.....one was a incorrectly machined flyweights (located on the camshaft gear) from factory and the other two are wear of the compression release "CAM" (located inside the valve camshaft) OR the ball/pin had worn a grove in the rocker/follower. ANY of these will result in NOT opening the EXHAUST SLIGHTY for a short DURATION=COMPRESSION RELEASE. ADJ valves and go from there. BE sure to get off the compression release section and only have the slipper pad adj screw to valve stem face....that that can also have wear problems. Lots to check here but that is what it is. The last problems require the rocker cover and cam to be pulled along with IF a pin/ball grove cut into the rocker/follower. The factory mistake can be fixed with a burr and die grinder (gets too deep for here right now of what and why details).

My new toy, does anyone else like the Kubota