Leaderboard

And pictures are worth more than 1,000 words when it comes to putting it back together, never say "I'll remember where it goes", i learned the hard way on some things.

A fuse block is the best way. It's just a distribution box. Then you pull power from that.

Just purchased a 2017, 750 challenger with 148 hours with one hour on new 2019 engine from Cub Cadet that per invoice cost $4704.28 + tax. That’s almost half of what the whole UTV cost new in 2017. Unbelievable! I have serviced everything as per manual and done the things posts on forum said to do to reduce noise. Has old exhaust and per this forum will probably break soon. Just ordered a new rear window to cut down on dust and air. Plan on taking to cabin we have near Custer SD in Black Hills with US Forestry roads all around us. Should be fun if reasonably reliable.

Try tapping on that solenoid next time it happens.

I figured you'd seen those. Just thought I'd mention it, with it being currently a topic. It was the moose that I saw. And something from Dennis Kirk, but I didn't click on it. It's probably all the same stuff. But since I didn't know which model, it would've been pointless to search.

This is a small engine, with a small engine battery, a small engine alternator (stator). I have never seen a battery sit at 13.6 volts. On a small Mule/atv or lawnmower. 13.6 is great charging voltage though while running. Did you see my post that i got the battery load tested? It was perfectly in the Green

13. 6 is what it should read with the engine running. It'll be significantly less sitting on the bench.

That should be plenty

Original

It only clicked whenever i moved the key from On to Start, i never got rapid clicking with the key held in start. I got a Amp meter ordered, should arrive tomorrow, i went with a Mid Price range one, rather than the $19.99 deals. If i had to get one one for work and i'd buy a Klein or other name brand, but once or twice i hope it will do fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z398YWF/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?pd_rd_i=B07Z398YWF&pd_rd_w=p1auc&pf_rd_p=14ceaa6a-1e28-4d0f-a108-58cc89c508f1&pd_rd_wg=4xvL4&pf_rd_r=VNZHCJD90WGD170VRJ5E&pd_rd_r=22625a41-1740-4e38-9387-a7058b60b280&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE0OTExV1pYNUhERlImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwODc1NzAxUEE2RU0yTkFSVjJOJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5NTQ0NDkySUdaTVczS0RYNEtUJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsX3RoZW1hdGljJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1

Let's look at these one at a time. Starting when shorting across the solenoid doesn't really mean much at this time. Since it started just fine before...and later on, after doing this. Now if that were the only way it'd start. That would be something. But that neither rules out, nor indicates a bad solenoid. But I agree, it does seem suspicious all the same. That fancy ammeter would tell you the amperage under load of both sides of the solenoid. The second item about the key, and the lack of current. If it's multiple clicking, it's getting current. Just not enough amps to start. Is it getting insufficient amps to start? Or is there a reason why the starter is now requiring more amps? You could take it apart and see if you can see anything obvious. Maybe lubricate the bearings. But since chinese junk is delicate you run the risk of causing other problems. Like a cracked magnet, or even something crazy. Like the thread where another member had his starter run backwards. And last, about the ignition getting amps. Those amps are very low. Evidenced by the small wiring. Lots of amps, equals larger guage wire.

but it's so weird how intermittent it is, if it were the battery i would think it would be more of a constant issue? All i know is electricity is crazy and i'm crazier, so i ordered a new + cable, and then the amp meter should be here tomorrow, and i'll load test the battery in a bit.

Could be the starter's mounting angle. Some cars have shims for this issue. Or maybe an internal manufacturing defect. It could be the solenoid, or the wiring. Or the ignition switch itself. Possibly the relay. One thing that can cause intermittent electrical problems, is the grounding. There should be a braided ground strap, or wire, in addition to the main negative terminal cable. Most vehicles have them for a reason. All this speculation is the reason I mention the amp draw first. That's a real number, and not subject to change with each start. So it isn't affected by anything else. It quickly rules out, or points to the starter as the culprit. Because the engine takes the same effort to turn over, each, and every time. Unless you're ready to start replacing parts, hoping to get lucky. You'll have to test each component individually. Also I'd load test the battery. Voltage testing isn't enough. I test my batteries three different ways. Hydrometer, voltage, and the load test, which is the best for knowing battery condition. These tests all tell something slightly different, while confirming what the other tests show. A new battery isn't really proof of anything. It's unlikely, but they can go bad early on.

I had a similar start/no start issue with my wife's civic. It acted the same way. A starter can test good, but still not work properly under load. Higher than normal starter amp draw can cause diagnostic headaches. YouTube had several good videos for testing the starter amp draw. It's a very easy test. Unfortunately it takes a type of multimeter that most people don't have. It has to have a hold function, and also be able to work with very low amperage. The low amp capability is the hard to find part. A fluke meter that fits those requirements, is several hundred dollars. But I found a cheap Chinese meter for around fifteen bucks. You just have to look around on the internet. They're out there, and it can be a handy tool for just this sort of thing. I was working with a known starter amp draw value. So I knew exactly what it should have been. With yours, you'd have to do some research. I'd probably start with trying to contact the company that sold it. Since you're working with all new parts, it could be just about anything. That's why I'd replace all the things that just work without any chance of malfunction. Things like cables, that when new, have almost zero possibility of being the problem. It also gives you a chance to reaffirm that all the connections are good. My thoughts would be that the starter is the most likely problem. But that makes me wonder why your machine is suddenly so hard on starters?

Double check exhaust between head and muffler. I had a 2018 cadet 750 that had a crack that caused the same issue.