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I think we need to establish a taxonomy for this discussion--specifically re: the often misused term "solenoid". Classically a solenoid is an electromagnetic device in which current flowing through a coil attracts an iron armature to create motion--not specifically an electrical switching relay, though all such devices are technically solenoids. Solenoids do mechanical work often without switching contacts. Remote door and trunk locks are activated by solenoids typically with no switching function. Umfortunately in automotive terminology it has come to be the term for the high current relay that switches power to an engine's electrical starting motor--with no other function. However in the instance of the 2001 Mule which has a somewhat "old school" (for a motorcycle type engine) pre-engagement drive starter the solenoid has two functions: 1) to mechanically position the starter's pinion gear into mesh with the engine's flywheel; and 2) to close electrical contacts to supply power to the starter's armature. Here's what that puppy looks like: The big round thingy on top of the starter motor is this starter's solenoid. Battery power is permanently (I.e. not switched) supplied directly to the topmost large terminal--the bottom-most terminal is connected (through brushes) to the armature. The small 1/4" male spade connector is where power is applied to activate the solenoid so that it will push the pinion gear into engagement with the flywheel, and close the main electrical contacts connectin the top and bottom terminals to power the starter motor. Typically is this configuration there is another somewhat high capacity relay that switches power to the starter's solenoid. these other relays are also often called "starter solenoids" which can and often does lead to confusion in trouble-shooting discussions. I do not have a 2001 Mule schematic at hand, however I suspect it might included such a high capacity relay for supplying +12 V to the starter's solenoid. In our discussions we need to make sure we differentiate the two--perhaps "starter relay" and "starter solenoid". Further confusion comes about because with the contemporary constant mesh starters there is typically a remote mounted high current relay often also called (sometimes even in factory parts lists) the starter solenoid where technically it is just a high current relay. Starter mounted solenoids can of course bed replaced ad hoc, but typically they are an included component of a new stater.

Just looking for suggestions or passing on what kinda worked. Maybe it'll help someone else. My seats are pretty roached so after watching a bunch Youtubes and not finding a real good answer, I tried some redneck repairs until I can afford new ones. First I trimmed the sharp edges of the vinyl down even with the foam cushioning inside. Actually, I started out doing this thinking I might just throw some seat covers on and I thought the sharp edges would wear through pretty quick. But when I got them all trimmed, the foam was still pretty swollen out of the holes since it apparently sat out in the sun a lot. (It's a hand-me-down: I take better care of my stuff.) So I used sandpaper and a block of wood to sand down the foam. It was sun-baked and harder than the underlying foam so it was easier to sand it than to try and cut it down. Once it was reasonably close to the original shape of the seat, I taped off the edges and applied 2 or 3 coats of Flex Seal black spray. Some of the deeper fills took a few days to dry completely but as you can see, it came out pretty good. I have yet to try and sit in it as the machine is still undergoing a massive engine rebuild. But at one point a fingertip did poke into the repaired spot. So I bought some Plasti-Dip spray to try again. I'll wait until I see how the Flex Seal holds up, though. Anyway. I just thought I'd tell the tale. Rick

If you can establish that it's working properly, while the mule still doesn't start. You can move on to the next test. But a bad solenoid does sometimes cause these exact symptoms. And the solenoid did get hot. I'm pretty sure it isn't supposed to do that. Considering how the solenoid works internally handling a good amount of current to the starter. There's only a couple ways that it could make heat. High current draw, or some kind of short internally. I'm certain that it's not current draw, since the starter wasn't turning at that point. So it seems some kind of short is all that's left. Though I have no idea how it could be the same across several solenoids. When you install the switch, you should inspect, or even replace that trigger wire. Maybe there's crud inside the terminal. Or something like a nick in the wire. Maybe an intermittent short.

AFAIK the "hard coat" is part of a manufacturing process, not some "after-the-fact' application--could be wrong about this though...

You should carry your multimeter on the mule. Next time it does it, test that solenoid again. While it's doing it. I still think there's a pretty good chance it's a bad solenoid. That thing getting hot seems suspicious, since everything else is pretty much new.

Added to my Amazon list for future use!

Welcome aboard! I also have a Coleman 400--got it last October, 505 miles on it as of earlier today. I like it...

Howdy!