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Your wiring diagram provides the ignition switch contact "rules" for its various positions--you can test it by checking continuity with an Ohmmeter as shown below: Connect the Ohmmeter to the wires/terminals as shown and check the resistance with the key in the indicated position--it should be 0.0 Ω or no more than 0.2 Ω.. This procedure tests the switch at low voltage and current as used by the ohmmeter, however it will be a valid indicator of the switch's functioning properly... Note: this test is performed with the switch NOT plugged into to the vehicle. In "OFF" there should be 0.0 Ω between the black/yellow and white/black wires In "ON" there should be 0.0 Ω between the brown and white wires In "START" there should be 0.0 Ω between the black/white and brown, black/white and white, and brown and white. The "OFF" position connection of the black/yellow and white/black wires grounds the ECU when the switch is off--a safety precaution against static discharge no doubt. -cliff-

I have never liked the cord in the glove box to charge the E1. It takes up to much room and in the winter the cord is very stiff. So I decided to install a charge port like the EV's have. I purchased a weatherproof socket to install in the side of the E1. Wired the charge cable to the socket and installed it. So much easier now to plug the charge cord into the socket, and I have more room in the glove box. On another note: Since I have owned the E1 I have noticed a rattle in the right front area but I never could locate it until last week when I had the E1 up in the air on a lift. When I grabbed the right front wheel it a play in it. So I removed the wheel and torqued the nut on the drive shaft and the play is gone. I am thinking when it was assembled the nut was just hand tightened and the cotter pin installed. I also found that the left front nut was not tight either. Backs were OK.

sometimes there's a plastic tab on the body, or a metal tab on the terrminal that lock things in place--however more and more in the modern world the terminals are moulded into the plastic body and not removable. I fall back to Q-tips ,toothpicks, a suitable solvent, and elbow grease on those.

The white-brown contacts provide (via the brown wire) +12V power to the lights, horn, brake lights, and the coil of the starter relay. 2.3 Ω is quite high , did thet measurement "include" the corroded connector? A modest 2 A load through that 2.3 Ω resistance would produce a 4.6 V voltage drop--leaving just 8.0 V (of a fully charged battery's 12.6 V) to "do the job". Obviously the corroded terminal needs to be replaced. In doing so make sure the wire is clean and shiny, and use some dielectric grease (SuperLube's PTFE grease is very good for this)--$6. at Home Depot--to "pot" then connection. Make sure you use a good crimping tool also, like this "full compression" tool from HF: This tool will create very reliable connections unlike those tools that just "squash" the terminal ferrule. . I suspect your recent manipulations of the wiring disturbed some poor connections and made them conduct. This is not uncommon, in emergency situations it can be, and has been for many, a viable action to get going again,,,

👍 Smartypants 😉

I searched for quite a while for a replacement rack and pinion.. I could not find one other than the ridiculously priced replacement from American Landmaster. I ended up rebuilding mine. It was not to bad to get apart. the housing , gear and steering gear bar were in good shape. the problem was finding spacers that would hold the steering gear bar straight and let it move side to side. I went to a local Hardware Supply that only sold nuts, bolts..etc. They had some spacers that fit perfectly. across the street from that place was a bearing place. They had oils seals that fit the open end perfectly. After I got the steering box greased and assembled I hammered in the oil seal at the end to hold it all together. I was worried the oils seal may come out with use, but months later and lots of riding it never moved. All the parts were around $25. The rebuild was cheap and easy once I secured the correct spacers and seal.. The spacers were loose bulk and the bearing place opened the bag on the seal to look at the fit. When I bought everything I did not get any part numbers or sizes. The part on mine that was really worn was the steering shaft. The end that connects to the steering box was completely rounded out. I ended up making my own steering shaft with two steering shaft ends and a piece of steering shaft. It was much higher quality and would never strip out. But, for the same money I could have just bought the overpriced new shaft from American Landmaster. It would have been much easier. As far as other parts.... Anything that is specific to the Bulldog can only be found through American Landmaster and some of those parts are no longer available. The Frame and Plastics: Fenders, roof, bed..etc are all oem parts. I bought those from Tractor Supply. They used to be an American Landmaster dealer until last year. They were much cheaper than American Landmaster and if I had them shipped to the store for pick up there was no shipping. You need to search Google for dealers selling these parts. Sometimes you will find old stock cheap. You can also use parts from different models that are actually the same part. American Landmaster will give the parts a different model number for the same part. Example: The rear fenders for a Bulldog are sold individually at a ridiculous price $60+ and high shipping cost. That is $120+ Shipping. Yet the rear fenders for the 265 model ( The cheaper version of the Bulldog ) are sold by the pair for $39.99 and can be found on Ebay sometimes with free shipping. They are exactly the same part. As for mechanical parts, most of them are Golf Cart and Go Kart parts. It takes some searching to find the correct parts. Most I found were E-Z-GO Golf Cart parts. If you have a specific part you are looking for and I bought the same one, I can look to see if I have the info. I bought the majority of mechanical parts on Ebay and Amazon.

Hello, love the rebuild! I have the same bd300 and I am restoring mine, currently putting a predator 301cc engine in it and its been a learning process, im using a non factory clutch on motor and its taking some trial and error to get it right. Could you post any additional links to parts that you may know of? I'm trying to find a cheaper rack n pinion, mud fenders on bed. I'll try to post some parts to links I found later.

Going on 3 days with no problems. Freaking weird. Put about 12 starts on it today

Have you checked the digital clock on the dash for codes? A lot of the models made in the last decade or so, blink the clock, and you count the blinks, to get the code. Others will display a digital number, that represents a code on the clock instead.