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Could have bet I posted this already from my iPhone, but sometimes it doesn't show up on the forum. I have my Coleman UT400 up and running again with new wet clutch, new cylinder/piston assembly and the hole in the crankcase fixed. Not sure how many pictures will be posted, but I've at least attached them to start with. The hole in the crankcase early repair before I bought the UT400. The hole after I just tapped the JB Weld off, literally just fell off the aluminum. Don't have a picture of my repair, but it looked very good and should hold as I did grind the surface and had it super clean and free of any oil. The wet clutch was my first repair to be done. When I pulled the housing off, the over running sprag clutch just fell in pieces. The round rollers are no long round. The clutch material was also worn out along with the drum. The drum was grooved badly. It all went back together nicely and no issues in that area for leaks. I noticed when I started to tear down the motor that the intake valve had no lash at all. The exhaust had around .020" lash, way too much. I drained the radiator via the main feed hose under the front floorboard area. This is the lowest point in the system. I have very little antifreeze leak out when I pulled the head and cylinder. I had to adjust the ring gaps on the new rings. I noticed that the old piston/rings "seemed" to be a bit weaker in tension than the new rings. Understandable based on the condition of the piston/cylinder. The piston was scored badly on one side and a little on the other side. The cylinder could be honed out and probably reused with a new piston and rings. BUT... for under $130 I got a new cylinder, new piston and rings, new head and base gasket and piston pin with cir-clips. I could not afford to do any less for that amount of money. The install of the new cylinder and piston assemble went very well. I did the valve lash, .006" intake and .007". It started right up and was smoking quite badly still. I would have guessed that based on the oil I used on the piston and cylinder upon re-assembly. It took about three miles to eventually dry out the muffler of the residue oil from the bad piston prior. I have no leaks and it runs and starts great. It moves nicely too. I'm speculating that the original issues were from the hole in the crankcase that led to low oil, wet clutch burn out and the dry cylinder/piston scoring. So hopefully it was a one off, and not something I need to worry about again soon. There's no noises in the driveline and it runs through the drive modes on the hoist without any hiccups. The ONLY concern I have is what caused the hole in the crankcase??? I came very close to removing the motor and splitting the case, as long as I was that far into it. I have a TIG here that I could weld the hole up for a TRUE fix, but I'll take the chance that whatever it was, is long gone for now. If I missed anything and anyone has any questions, let me know! Merry Christmas everyone... Dan