Leaderboard

You probably have a bad ground in the rear. You may be able to add a jumper "ground" from the inside of the lamp assembly and see if that helps the dimming issue. If so, make a new permanent ground and that should take care of the issue. Good luck, Dan

You're robbing Peter to pay Paul with the adjustments. You CANNOT adjust more throw into the cable. All you can do is give more F, or more R. You cannot get both with a cable adjustment. Someone actually cut the slot for the shift lever longer and then modified the detents and that seemed to help him, but the downright simplest solution is to remove the lever assembly and have it lengthen 3/4". And yes, every time it jumps out of gear, the very corners of the gear dogs are rounding off just a bit at a time. Before too long, the gears will be worn enough that they will need to be replaced. A fix sooner than later, is the key here. Good luck, Dan

When you do the 3/4" extension, you will have to "bend" the cable mounting bracket just a bit to regain the correct alignment of the cable with the newly extended shift lever. Rather than doing the plate and drilling etc,, I would opt for taking the lever to a fab shop and ask that they add 3/4" into the lever as I did. This should not cost much and will be better than bolting it together. But bolting it all up "may" be a permanent solution.

Sounds like the TSC people didn't really know the full story behind it. Those places, and others, do have a frequent turnover in workers. If it is all you can afford, and you think you can get everything up to par without a lot more money and time, then probably should keep it. Deliberately scamming someone versus not knowing all the real details are different things to me. As Charles said above you should be able to find parts pretty easily without a huge price tag. I would definitely replace all the fluids and oil filter just to be safe.

No idea, but I welded mine closed. No issues so far.. machine is much quieter without a pencil size exhaust leak..

Just a thought on the replacement shift lever, this is not just a replacement original part. They will have to make all new dies to stamp out the new longer shift lever. I could take months for them to get this done, IF they feel it's necessary at their end. We're all at their mercy! Someone else here has done this and just used a piece of steel and a couple bolts to extend the shift cable pin about 3/4". Welding is more permanent and stronger in my opinion, but a good couple 1/4-20 bolts and some steel would do just fine. Remember, when taking off the shift lever, work the outside shaft/lever bushing out of the pivot tube and then slide a very thin blade into the back side of the lever pivot tube and work the inside plastic bushing out. This will give you more than enough wiggle room to remove the lever without having to take the bezel off of the dash. Also, when you've done the 3/4" extension, you "should" take the cable out of the frame bracket and with a 12" or 15" Cresent wrench, tweak the cable mount a bit to allow the cable to be aligned with the new position of the shift lever pin. I had to remove one of the crip clamps on the rubber shift cable boot and when finished, just used a small cable tie to secure the boot again to the cable housing. This is NOT a bad task to do. My UT400 now shifts with authority and has not jumped out of gear. I plowed for around three hours in the last snowfall and zero issues. I am totally surprised at the amount of snow this little thing can push. I have the KFI 60" blade and I upgraded it with the KFI power angle kit. Granted, $1k for just power angle seems very steep, but in sub freezing temps and with the NOW new 3-Star Industries enclosure, getting in/out of the cab would be a royal PITA! Good luck with your shift lever.