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Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft. I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005". This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow). Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat. Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX) Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out. Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose. Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force. If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance. That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again. If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these

Since it's designed to go thru mud and water, I can't see how you can hurt it .Just don't spray into the air filter box.I pressure was my UTV and Atvs after each use to prevent corrosion

Hi Space Ghost and welcome. I'm one of the originals here but don't post much these days. After reading your posts I feel obliged to reach out to you. Firstly thanks for your service and the sacrifices you've made. We are a Powersports Dealer and can and will give you at least a 10% discount on parts and accessories you may need. Contact other Powersports dealers and they will help you too. You deserve to get the best deals going. Contact me at any time and just mention UTV Board. Thanks, Mike.

My Service dog Bärli on the left with his battle buddy Louie on the right.

Welcome Space Ghost, I too just upgraded from a quad ATV to a full cab UTV. For many of the same reasons as you. My service-connected disabilities make it very difficult to ride and be out in the elements anymore. The new UTV is making riding still possible. Thank you for your service!

Not sure if this would be an option for your 550: I'm using a 72" KFI plow on my Hisun Sector 750 - works well. Driveway is 350'+ x 12'. One pass down the middle and then one on either side. (photo is UTV with plow at the dealer's - was delivered that way). Note - need to manually adjust plow angle.

if i cannot see, feel, operate a piece of equipment, i am not interested..............

I was reading through an old thread about the woes of the risky ownership of Hisun UTVs. Well, OK. So we all own some problematic machines. But I’ll say this. I’ve owned bicycles, automobiles, snowmobiles, PWCs, boats motorcycles, class 8 trucks, airplanes and a crapload of heavy equipment. Nothing I’ve owned and operated hasn’t broken or needed maintenance. The difference between all those prior items and my Hisun, I feel, is the support (or lack of)from the factory and dealership. That’s where this and other forums come in. We’re all we have! Well, us and YouTube. Oddly enough though, with help I’ve received from YouTube and you guys,I’m actually starting to enjoy crawling through this machine, and screw the factory/dealer. I’ll make this vehicle what they didn’t. And have fun doing it.

I thank you PB

Did you take a look at the parts diagram?...https://alpha-sports.com/massimo_parts.htm?q=massimo-parts I suppose there may be a unique situation that only a 1 off bolt or screw may work, but everything I see on the parts diagrams are standard metric bolts. They are after all trying to minimize costs, and creating unique hardware hardly seems productive.

Hisun Sector E1 Discovery to Lithium Conversion. So I went ahead and did the conversion using the LiTime 4-pack 48V 30Ah GC2 which I ordered on Amazon Prime Day for $1840 ($460/battery). Also bought the LiTime 58.4V 18A ($200) Lithium Battery Charge and “Superboni” 7pc set #2 Awg HD Golf Cart Battery Club Car 48 Wire Kit ($56). I utilized the LiTime charger to activate the Bluetooth and charge each battery to full. Then, connected them all in parallel and allowed them to balance both internal cells of each battery and between batteries which took several hours. Removed all the old Discovery batteries which as stated before requires the removal of the front panel under the seating and is much easier if you disconnect the piston allowing the rear bed to open fully. Placed the 4 new batteries in the most interior positions and had to utilize the braces from the exterior positions because the H-brace from the interior positions overlapped the battery terminals on the new batteries. Be sure to position the batteries so the original connections can reach which for me was positioning the negative terminal on both posterior batteries towards the rear. I connected the batteries in parallel for balanced but not perfectly balanced charging/discharge because it would require connections crossing over the controller sitting between the left and right battery positions. Basically, the connections followed a “U” pattern around the controller. I used this webpage to help wire the batteries: https://www.solar-electric.com/lib/wind-sun/Iota_balanced_charging.pdf I reprogrammed the Delta-Q charger to profile #233 charging to 56V as previously mentioned by Jaime since I read it is not recommended to utilize the max charge voltage which would have been profile #386 charging to 58.4V. https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/14188856858893-Choosing-an-Algorithm-for-a-Lithium-Battery How to upload new profiles: https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015622531-IC-Series-How-to-reprogram-reflash-or-upgrade-software-and-algorithms-via-USB How to change charger profile: https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/360016475772-Changing-Algorithms-on-IC-Series-Chargers Download profiles here: https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015622311-Download-Algorithms-for-IC-Series-Chargers Put everything back together and took it for a test run. Everything appeared to function properly and certainly has more power. I am using the battery Bluetooth with the LiTime App to monitor the batteries individually and the App has a feature that allows you to monitor all 4 batteries as a system. I was able to see that the batteries did charge on the Delta Q charger as well. It’s been less than a week, so I will update if anything changes, but overall for less than $2100 + tax/shipping(free since I have Amazon Prime), I’m very happy with the conversion. Hope this helps anyone else thinking of making the leap to Lithium.

there was a time I could say my HAIR would protect my head... not any more

Stay away from Chinese UTVs.Service is non existant.They don't honor warranty. I personally like HONDA for their durability .

In order to connect with the ECU we need two cables. The first is a USB ODBII cable. HUD ECU Hacker’s documentation has a lot of different confusing options, but here’s what I went with and managed to get working, the cable is called “VAG KKL” it is a USB to ODB2 cable. It is available from a variety of sources for $10-15. The second thing we need is a “6 pin delphi to ODB2” adapter cable. It is also available for a similar price. In my case I ordered both from ebay, but there are other sources. Once we have our cable in hand we need to find the plug it in on your machine. My personal rig is a Coleman UT400, but the wire location should be similar for all Hisuns. My cable was located under the middle of the seat area. Just inboard of the battery, where the main wire harness split loom runs. The cable is a 6 pin (3x2) with a dust cap. Remove the dust cap and plug in the 6-pin end of the Delphi adapter cable. Note: When I was done, I left the 6-pin adapter connected, and zip tied it so it now runs to in front of the battery for easier access in the future. Next download and install HUD ECU HACKER DOWNLOAD Open HUD ECU Hacker on your PC It should prompt you to choose a driver to install. This particular cable uses the “CH340” driver (First choice on the menu) click to install, once installed hit the X in the corner to go back to the main page Once the driver is installed plug in the USB Cable, and plug the ODB2 end into the 6 pin adapter. The red led on the adapter should light up indicating it has power. Drop down and pick a com port on the main screen, it should show the VAG KKL adapter as a com port. Click connect on the main menu. It will pop up a bunch of fast scrolling text indicating it is connecting. Once connected you can click through the various tabs to see different data sets. The main menu also has the option to show fault codes, clear fault codes, reset the EPROM back to factory. The other function that may be helpful is recording a log file. You can record a log while operating the unit, and come back later and replay it to try to better diagnose what is happening. Within the various pages you will see the reading from each sensor. Sometimes a sensor reading will be off enough to cause running issues, but not enough for the ECU to realize its an issue. For example if the engine thinks it’s really warm, but its actually cold, it may not inject enough fuel to start. There are also more advanced functions, like adjusting fuel mapping, but that is beyond the scope of this tutorial. Full HUD ECU Hacker Documentation (Very technical reading) If you find this helpful give me a comment below or a thumbs up.

I didn't take any chances. I used what the manual calls for, which was oil for clutches.

2023 Maverick X3 X MR Turbo RR Thoughts on this one? Maverick X3 X MR Turbo RR 64 top features Snorkeled engine air intake and CVT 30 in. ITP Cryptid tires Front bumper, half-doors 4,500 lb (2,041kg) winch with synthetic rope

good point, perfect is hard to find in anything, especially UTV's.

As with any forum you join, there is a requirement for an obligatory introduction... and that seems fair. How else do you get that first post in there without jumping in with some stupid question right out of nowhere? Hi. I'm Space Ghost. Well, not really, but that was my call sign on my last deployment before an IED made me non-deployable, and I an now retired/disabled, and living on my wonderful VA disability. I did almost 28 years in total between the Army, Army Reserve, and National Guard. 1 deployment with the Reserve (Desert Storm) and 3 with the Guard (1 pre, and 2 post 9/11) Married (going on 30 years) one of each. (both out of the nest) My vehicle is (at least not yet) not a UTV, however, it is an ATV, A 2001 Kawasaki Prairie 400. BTW, That's Brandy, my former PTS/TBI service dog on the bike. RIP old girl. She's internet famous. Perhaps you've seen her before... The reason I'm here is that Arthritis is starting to set into my wounds and my mobility is getting worse. I will be selling the quad bike soon, and going with a SXS, and have selected a Can Am model as the replacement, so I figured I had better get on board a forum somewhere. Just put in for my Guard retirement, and will be very soon looking to get into a Commander 6x6. Wouldn't mind having the Limited with the Hvac system, but am really not sure it's worth the extra 10 grand or not. Plus it's 500 pounds heavier, and I prefer the doors off in nice weather. It's so much easier when working in the yard, and so much more fun when on the trail. Anyway, I'm here now, so it will help me research more and make up my mind. Plus once I have it, I'll be able to share stories about it and of course, continue to learn more, as it will be my 1st sxs. Still have time before I get my retirement. Takes a good 90 days at least according to the guy I talked to... Typical government efficiency... lol.

Warmed up relatively speaking here in mid Michigan. 16 F this morning, and with the increased temps comes the almost constant light snow. A little over 3 inches overnight with light snow continuing unabated. Will plow again mid morning, and likely again late afternoon. Not a big job but has to be done on a hillside drive facing NE. Otherwise it just becomes a sheet of packed ice.

I bought a new Hisun Sector 750 in Jan. 2021 mainly due to price and features. I also bought a plow with it to clear snow from my 350' driveway during the 2021 winter since we couldn't go south due to covid. Like Alien10 I use it primarily to haul firewood on our 75ac property and although licensed and insured I rarely take it out on the public roads. I don't abuse it but don't baby it either. I've used the winch a lot to haul large logs out of the bush to where I can easily cut them up and haul the pieces back to my wood pile. Other than the first winter, it's stored in an uninsulated shed in the winter - only storage prep is to add and circulate sufficient fuel stabilizer. I've left the battery in and cables attached - so far it has fired right up in the spring. I have about 75 hours on the clock. As for maintenance, other than oil changes, I've been fortunate - just an issue with steering last spring when it would suddenly jerk to the left while driving in a straight line. It was an intermittent and baffling problem. Also fortunately I found a sales/repair shop 10 miles from me that also handles Hisun and they were able to solve the problem. All in all, I've had a positive experience with my UTV and it's doing what I need it to do. YMMV

There is nothing convenient easy, or reliable about anything named Hisun..in my experience they are cheaply built, poorly assembled, unreliable, and not backed by any thing resembling warranty or customer service Had someone warned me before buying mine new at Tractor Supply, I would have bought the Honda or CF MOTO

Thanks. I need a passenger side seat also. Been watching Marketplace but nothing yet. I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and buy a new one. Won't do that until I get it running.

Welcome, to the board. In in Eastern, KY also. Not any local authorized repair shop around here that I can find. Haven't tried any other place. Since it been down for a while. Charge the battery. Then check for spark. Check for any loose wires and connections. I changed the oem seats in my Axis 500, replaced with seats from a RZR from ebay. I made the seat base and they fit pretty good. I gave 1 of the seats to a guy up the road for spreading some dirt in the driveway. Gave one to my brother to replace a seat on his mower. Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Not long here myself, and don't have a Kioti anything, but welcome to the site! And a hearty Thank You!

I'm retired contractor..no more interviews or training for me. No boss to fire me..except maybe the wife. Lol. Spend my time thinking...what fun thing can I do tomorrow? Life is 👍

Congrats!!!!

Been there done that. Got the DD214 to prove it. Still can't be an artist. Said my condition was not service related. LOL Just got a call from the GF at new company. Said he'd send me a list of what to bring for orientation and training and I'd start on Jan 7th. My future is looking so bright I've got to wear shades.

Exactly. When the guys came and picked up the truck. I took multiple pics of everything. SN, items turned on and working, ECT. Then cut CC up in tiny pieces. Even pics of odometer showing miles and fuel gauge. Outside and inside of vehicle and trailer. Did those when I received also. In case I was accused of any damage. When I went to the union the day after I quit. I was told that this Union hall had never sent anyone to that company in over 8 years. Asked it there was anything they could do so this to keep this company from taking advantage of the guys still there. Union said nothing they could do except file a grievance if I wanted my job back. Said no cause the company would still find a way to get rid of me. And if I wanted to to stay there I wouldn't have quit. Talked to a guy still working there the week after I quit. He said the company changed their policy and started to pay drive from the company lot to the 1st job of the day and back to the lot. But that was what the union contract stated in the 1st place. Except the union contract put it as the headquarters instead of company lot. So maybe I did help out the remaining guys in the long run. It has to work out. No other choice. LOL. But really I want to be an artist. Sit on the couch and draw a check every month. LOL

My money is on the carb needle/seat

Alien10 I didn't think any disrespect was implied or intended. I really didn't get offended in any way, shape, fashion or form. I REALLY did appreciate the education on the workings of the compression tester. And truly never thought about how it worked. And as a man that knows it all (joke intended), I didn't read the directions. Or didn't receive any. I've had this for 5 years. And either the directions never came with it or walked away. And if I've offended anyone with the blonde comment, I truly apologize. Didn't mean to. It's just a running joke between me and my wife. Anyway, all good. Thanks again.

@Alien10 These kind of crooks have been around since the street fairs and carnivals. I was involved in pinching one about 20 years ago. This scam sent out faxes with an invoice for something that pertained to the type of business. They had the Yellow books for the whole nation and operated out of 6 to 8 centers around the US. For instance. elec got wire or terminals. Ag equip got filters etc. You would have to work in an office environment to realize how many invoices get paid with just a payables clerk approval. ThaT is why PO #'s and matching is so important. hey sent these out by the thousands and I would be willing to say 50% were paid. Many of these little clerks paid the bill because they were afraid not to if the big boss had ordered it and he got a phone call. Also a big part of using the fax machines was that it couldn't be prosecuted under Federal Law.If they mailed an invoice it was considered mail fraud and the Postal inspectors could track them to the end of the world. I had located one of their office spaces and a tip to the FBI got me a phone call for what I knew. Never found out the outcome but was glad to help. Nothing I hate worst than a thief. Everyone needs to stay diligent on the web. If it looks too good to be true it probably is!

Look for tiny bubbles in the coolant recovery bottle while running and normal temp or hot. Mine never got coolant in the oil but looked like Alka Seltzer in the recovery bottle.

Good news! Its fixed! Thanks Greg and others for all the comments. Really appreciate it. No matter what I tried, I was not able to adjust the shift rod to enable it to cycle thru all the gears. I removed the shift rod and opened the gear fan case. The issue turned out to be the fan gears being corroded. The pic shows the corrosion but it is hard to see how bad the teeth were. I was able to get it fixed by replacing the gear fan and then adjusting the shift rod linkage. This is a walkthru for replacing it. www.youtube.com/watch?v=FABLVRLNHtY Its now shifting better then it did when I first got it.

This was the solution

7 month Update... I've been cutting trails through my woods over the last month or so. The trails are kind of rough and tight, go up and down hills and through mud and swamps, ravines etc. I have to say that my 2021 Axis 500 is really fun to ride. It just jeep crawls over and through everything in 4wd low though I can use it in 2 wd high is more fun to just crawl through everything. Up to riding on my own trails its been on some fairly wide state trails, two tracks and dirt roads. It's pretty fun riding on tight rough and steep trails. I am impressed how well it does. Also been using it to haul stuff around the property like building supplies for my deer blinds, seed, fertilizer for my food plots. Not to mention hauling the deer back to the cabin. .It's a work horse.

Thank you. I’ve thought about drilling a hole, but the bolt heads line up with the back of the rear light assembly. So I think, with my luck, I’d end up ruining the light too. I ordered some of the 6mm threaded quick nuts that slip over panels. From the diagram you sent, they could be part number 3. It’s really hard to tell. Coleman was not any help, sadly.

A BFH will fix it or fix it where it will never give you a problem again.

Lol, like you need more rain in the swamp 🤣

I work on a ship that travels between Houston, Southern Lousiana, and Florida...miserable all summer. I dont know how you guys manage it. I never seem to find the right balance between staying hydrated and peeing constantly. I have worked asphalt barges in Lousiana in the summer too. 300 degree cargo means the temperatures on deck are even hotter since it radiates through the steel. Much nicer at home in Maine the other half of the year.

I guess it's whatever you are used to. Personally, I don't do well with humidity above 70%, like Alien10 says. I rarely leave the a/c in those conditions.

lol We only get low 70% humidity in January cold fronts...We wake up to 96% every morning ..Last year we actually had Heat index in the 120s for a month.. Its hot down here in the swamp.🥵

The engine is a 95% clone of YAMAHA Rhino but built with lesser quality parts and assembly..I Have replaced broken defective parts with YAMAHA Parts on my 500 Hisun engine. It has become acceptable SXS now. Mine broke on its first day in its first mile. Neither Hisun or Massimo would back warranty. 6 trips to shop all paid out of pocket..I discourage anyone from buying anything made by Hisun.☠

I really believe that the design of the Hisun 500/700 is very good but the people building them are very bad. They apparently know nothing (or just don't care) about quality control and customer support. If a good company were to buy them out and fire everyone that ever had anything to do with building them and replace with good engineers, QC, customer support people, they could corner the market. As it is now don't buy one unless you are fully ready to maintain it on your own because you will have problems.

welcome!

Yes, please see what you can do. Now, ads are popping up on top of posts and I cannot shut them down, so I can't even read certain posts. I click on the X in the corner and the ad changes with an arrow in the opposite corner. I click on the arrow and the previous as appears.

The main trick is tilting the front end up. Block the rear wheels and jack up the front end at least a foot. A convenient ditch works well also.....rear wheels in a shallow ditch. The head bleeder screw should be opened. With the engine NOT running, almost fill the radiator (leave some air to avoid a mess) and burp (squeeze the lower hose line before the metal tube at the engine base passenger side floor area). Watch the radiator and the the bleeder. With the radiator "higher" than the head bleeder, the air should be bled and coolant dribble out. Close the bleeder and refill radiator (your clue you displaced the air with coolant) and start the engine. Burp more while running and if you get the circulation going the hoses will warm up. More bubbles should surface at the radiator filler neck. Shut off engine. Open bleeder and release any air in the head. The puke jug needs to be filled about an inch above the full cold line. Use a shop towel as a "seal"and use an air nozzle to SLIGHTLY pressurize the puke tank removing the air from the tubing line to the radiator neck. Then the radiator starts to overflow, a third hand can install the radiator cap. Run the engine and determine the head and hoses are at the close to the same temperature (as in warming up) through out the system. IR temp gun....fairly cheap now....can get real numbers. Scan the radiator, hoses, cylinder and head.....if all close you are done. Recheck fluids when done riding. Recheck the bleeder and top off the puke jug as required.

Its' not a car, this is a motorcycle engine with a small stator charging system. You can't expect to run high wattage accessories like a heater or huge light bars on these things . That will overwhelm the charging system, drain your battery an stop your engine. Could damage the charging system and voltage regulator too. You only have about 10 amps extra to run any accessories including lights.

My dealer gave me an electronic version of the service manual and I have sent it to Kingfish. I will see if it will upload here for others to use. I'm not sure if there is a more appropriate way to do this, let me know if there is.. 2015-2017 Service Manual - Sector E1.pdf