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Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft. I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005". This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow). Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat. Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX) Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out. Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose. Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force. If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance. That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again. If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these

if i cannot see, feel, operate a piece of equipment, i am not interested..............

I was reading through an old thread about the woes of the risky ownership of Hisun UTVs. Well, OK. So we all own some problematic machines. But I’ll say this. I’ve owned bicycles, automobiles, snowmobiles, PWCs, boats motorcycles, class 8 trucks, airplanes and a crapload of heavy equipment. Nothing I’ve owned and operated hasn’t broken or needed maintenance. The difference between all those prior items and my Hisun, I feel, is the support (or lack of)from the factory and dealership. That’s where this and other forums come in. We’re all we have! Well, us and YouTube. Oddly enough though, with help I’ve received from YouTube and you guys,I’m actually starting to enjoy crawling through this machine, and screw the factory/dealer. I’ll make this vehicle what they didn’t. And have fun doing it.

I thank you PB

Did you take a look at the parts diagram?...https://alpha-sports.com/massimo_parts.htm?q=massimo-parts I suppose there may be a unique situation that only a 1 off bolt or screw may work, but everything I see on the parts diagrams are standard metric bolts. They are after all trying to minimize costs, and creating unique hardware hardly seems productive.

Hisun Sector E1 Discovery to Lithium Conversion. So I went ahead and did the conversion using the LiTime 4-pack 48V 30Ah GC2 which I ordered on Amazon Prime Day for $1840 ($460/battery). Also bought the LiTime 58.4V 18A ($200) Lithium Battery Charge and “Superboni” 7pc set #2 Awg HD Golf Cart Battery Club Car 48 Wire Kit ($56). I utilized the LiTime charger to activate the Bluetooth and charge each battery to full. Then, connected them all in parallel and allowed them to balance both internal cells of each battery and between batteries which took several hours. Removed all the old Discovery batteries which as stated before requires the removal of the front panel under the seating and is much easier if you disconnect the piston allowing the rear bed to open fully. Placed the 4 new batteries in the most interior positions and had to utilize the braces from the exterior positions because the H-brace from the interior positions overlapped the battery terminals on the new batteries. Be sure to position the batteries so the original connections can reach which for me was positioning the negative terminal on both posterior batteries towards the rear. I connected the batteries in parallel for balanced but not perfectly balanced charging/discharge because it would require connections crossing over the controller sitting between the left and right battery positions. Basically, the connections followed a “U” pattern around the controller. I used this webpage to help wire the batteries: https://www.solar-electric.com/lib/wind-sun/Iota_balanced_charging.pdf I reprogrammed the Delta-Q charger to profile #233 charging to 56V as previously mentioned by Jaime since I read it is not recommended to utilize the max charge voltage which would have been profile #386 charging to 58.4V. https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/14188856858893-Choosing-an-Algorithm-for-a-Lithium-Battery How to upload new profiles: https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015622531-IC-Series-How-to-reprogram-reflash-or-upgrade-software-and-algorithms-via-USB How to change charger profile: https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/360016475772-Changing-Algorithms-on-IC-Series-Chargers Download profiles here: https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015622311-Download-Algorithms-for-IC-Series-Chargers Put everything back together and took it for a test run. Everything appeared to function properly and certainly has more power. I am using the battery Bluetooth with the LiTime App to monitor the batteries individually and the App has a feature that allows you to monitor all 4 batteries as a system. I was able to see that the batteries did charge on the Delta Q charger as well. It’s been less than a week, so I will update if anything changes, but overall for less than $2100 + tax/shipping(free since I have Amazon Prime), I’m very happy with the conversion. Hope this helps anyone else thinking of making the leap to Lithium.

there was a time I could say my HAIR would protect my head... not any more

Stay away from Chinese UTVs.Service is non existant.They don't honor warranty. I personally like HONDA for their durability .

In order to connect with the ECU we need two cables. The first is a USB ODBII cable. HUD ECU Hacker’s documentation has a lot of different confusing options, but here’s what I went with and managed to get working, the cable is called “VAG KKL” it is a USB to ODB2 cable. It is available from a variety of sources for $10-15. The second thing we need is a “6 pin delphi to ODB2” adapter cable. It is also available for a similar price. In my case I ordered both from ebay, but there are other sources. Once we have our cable in hand we need to find the plug it in on your machine. My personal rig is a Coleman UT400, but the wire location should be similar for all Hisuns. My cable was located under the middle of the seat area. Just inboard of the battery, where the main wire harness split loom runs. The cable is a 6 pin (3x2) with a dust cap. Remove the dust cap and plug in the 6-pin end of the Delphi adapter cable. Note: When I was done, I left the 6-pin adapter connected, and zip tied it so it now runs to in front of the battery for easier access in the future. Next download and install HUD ECU HACKER DOWNLOAD Open HUD ECU Hacker on your PC It should prompt you to choose a driver to install. This particular cable uses the “CH340” driver (First choice on the menu) click to install, once installed hit the X in the corner to go back to the main page Once the driver is installed plug in the USB Cable, and plug the ODB2 end into the 6 pin adapter. The red led on the adapter should light up indicating it has power. Drop down and pick a com port on the main screen, it should show the VAG KKL adapter as a com port. Click connect on the main menu. It will pop up a bunch of fast scrolling text indicating it is connecting. Once connected you can click through the various tabs to see different data sets. The main menu also has the option to show fault codes, clear fault codes, reset the EPROM back to factory. The other function that may be helpful is recording a log file. You can record a log while operating the unit, and come back later and replay it to try to better diagnose what is happening. Within the various pages you will see the reading from each sensor. Sometimes a sensor reading will be off enough to cause running issues, but not enough for the ECU to realize its an issue. For example if the engine thinks it’s really warm, but its actually cold, it may not inject enough fuel to start. There are also more advanced functions, like adjusting fuel mapping, but that is beyond the scope of this tutorial. Full HUD ECU Hacker Documentation (Very technical reading) If you find this helpful give me a comment below or a thumbs up.

All you can do is be honest with them. Tell of any trouble you've had and how you've fixed them. Tell them to research the name and find out for themselves. As long as your honest you can have a clean conscience. As far as the price and what it's worth. That is up to the buyer. One person may say it's not worth a $100 and another person would give full asking price and not try to talk you down. Whatever the buyer is willing to pay. That is what it's worth.

I'm retired contractor..no more interviews or training for me. No boss to fire me..except maybe the wife. Lol. Spend my time thinking...what fun thing can I do tomorrow? Life is 👍

Congrats!!!!

Been there done that. Got the DD214 to prove it. Still can't be an artist. Said my condition was not service related. LOL Just got a call from the GF at new company. Said he'd send me a list of what to bring for orientation and training and I'd start on Jan 7th. My future is looking so bright I've got to wear shades.

Exactly. When the guys came and picked up the truck. I took multiple pics of everything. SN, items turned on and working, ECT. Then cut CC up in tiny pieces. Even pics of odometer showing miles and fuel gauge. Outside and inside of vehicle and trailer. Did those when I received also. In case I was accused of any damage. When I went to the union the day after I quit. I was told that this Union hall had never sent anyone to that company in over 8 years. Asked it there was anything they could do so this to keep this company from taking advantage of the guys still there. Union said nothing they could do except file a grievance if I wanted my job back. Said no cause the company would still find a way to get rid of me. And if I wanted to to stay there I wouldn't have quit. Talked to a guy still working there the week after I quit. He said the company changed their policy and started to pay drive from the company lot to the 1st job of the day and back to the lot. But that was what the union contract stated in the 1st place. Except the union contract put it as the headquarters instead of company lot. So maybe I did help out the remaining guys in the long run. It has to work out. No other choice. LOL. But really I want to be an artist. Sit on the couch and draw a check every month. LOL

My money is on the carb needle/seat

Alien10 I didn't think any disrespect was implied or intended. I really didn't get offended in any way, shape, fashion or form. I REALLY did appreciate the education on the workings of the compression tester. And truly never thought about how it worked. And as a man that knows it all (joke intended), I didn't read the directions. Or didn't receive any. I've had this for 5 years. And either the directions never came with it or walked away. And if I've offended anyone with the blonde comment, I truly apologize. Didn't mean to. It's just a running joke between me and my wife. Anyway, all good. Thanks again.

I might be misinterpreting the compression test results you've posted. Wouldn't be the first thing I've screwed up this morning! But, most if not all compression testers have a one way valve. That is to record the highest compression pressures it sees during the test. It will leave the gauge at that highest level, even it there is no compression left in the engine's cylinder after it stops cranking, until the release valve is pushed to release it back to zero. I'm thinking that your 130 and 125 pressure readings, after being left for 15 to 20 minutes are just the pressure captured and retained by the gauge and hose? Reason is I've never seen an engine cylinder that will retain 125 lbs of compression more than a dozen seconds as those peak pressures bleed down fairly rapidly through the rings. Those are by no means anywhere near a perfect seal. Your last results would seem to show a bubble was left in the system that you have now released. Great detective work! Maybe its time to just run the machine as you normally would paying attention to the temperature, coolant level and its appearance, and of course importantly, the oil level and its appearance. If you have a head gasket issue, it will soon show up in the coolant or oil being compromised.

@Alien10 These kind of crooks have been around since the street fairs and carnivals. I was involved in pinching one about 20 years ago. This scam sent out faxes with an invoice for something that pertained to the type of business. They had the Yellow books for the whole nation and operated out of 6 to 8 centers around the US. For instance. elec got wire or terminals. Ag equip got filters etc. You would have to work in an office environment to realize how many invoices get paid with just a payables clerk approval. ThaT is why PO #'s and matching is so important. hey sent these out by the thousands and I would be willing to say 50% were paid. Many of these little clerks paid the bill because they were afraid not to if the big boss had ordered it and he got a phone call. Also a big part of using the fax machines was that it couldn't be prosecuted under Federal Law.If they mailed an invoice it was considered mail fraud and the Postal inspectors could track them to the end of the world. I had located one of their office spaces and a tip to the FBI got me a phone call for what I knew. Never found out the outcome but was glad to help. Nothing I hate worst than a thief. Everyone needs to stay diligent on the web. If it looks too good to be true it probably is!

Look for tiny bubbles in the coolant recovery bottle while running and normal temp or hot. Mine never got coolant in the oil but looked like Alka Seltzer in the recovery bottle.

Couple of other thoughts... A head gasket can fail to the oil passages, to the coolant system, or to the outside air. Are you getting excessive crank case blow by? Is there any external compression leakage? Are you getting combustion gases in the coolant system? Cap off coolant system shouldn't be expelling gases or pressure. Has the coolant level dropped or increased? Does the coolant appear to be contaminated in any way? (Oily, brownish tinge etc.) Just a few things that came to mind. Good luck.

Good news! Its fixed! Thanks Greg and others for all the comments. Really appreciate it. No matter what I tried, I was not able to adjust the shift rod to enable it to cycle thru all the gears. I removed the shift rod and opened the gear fan case. The issue turned out to be the fan gears being corroded. The pic shows the corrosion but it is hard to see how bad the teeth were. I was able to get it fixed by replacing the gear fan and then adjusting the shift rod linkage. This is a walkthru for replacing it. www.youtube.com/watch?v=FABLVRLNHtY Its now shifting better then it did when I first got it.

This was the solution

Hi i'm jakub and i making DIY UTV. Some questions?

7 month Update... I've been cutting trails through my woods over the last month or so. The trails are kind of rough and tight, go up and down hills and through mud and swamps, ravines etc. I have to say that my 2021 Axis 500 is really fun to ride. It just jeep crawls over and through everything in 4wd low though I can use it in 2 wd high is more fun to just crawl through everything. Up to riding on my own trails its been on some fairly wide state trails, two tracks and dirt roads. It's pretty fun riding on tight rough and steep trails. I am impressed how well it does. Also been using it to haul stuff around the property like building supplies for my deer blinds, seed, fertilizer for my food plots. Not to mention hauling the deer back to the cabin. .It's a work horse.

It's gotten simpler since that first post now that GC2 form factor batteries are available. But to your comment, this is a one-time thing and is frankly because HiSun went with older technology batteries when it came out. Now to "fill up" I just plug in to an outlet at the end of the day. No going to the station to fill up cans of gas, no fumes, no noise, no oil changes, no maintenance issues with all the additional little parts that keep a combustion engine going and tuned up, no worry that my UTV sat too long between uses and might not start or the gas needs stabilizer. I can even run electric loads like the light bars I installed without leaving an engine running and worrying about the little 12v battery. I've even considered adding a 2000W 48v dc to ac inverter to run power tools.

Thank you. I’ve thought about drilling a hole, but the bolt heads line up with the back of the rear light assembly. So I think, with my luck, I’d end up ruining the light too. I ordered some of the 6mm threaded quick nuts that slip over panels. From the diagram you sent, they could be part number 3. It’s really hard to tell. Coleman was not any help, sadly.

So I took the leap and did the LiPo4 conversion. I purchased 2 Ogrphy 48v 100ah off Amazon when they were on sale @ $789 ea. All I can say is WOW, the difference is amazing. First is the obvious weight difference. Two 88lb batts vs 8 discover batteries which I think are 65lb each. It actually feels like I have power steering there is so much less weight on the front end. Second is the performance. With the old Discover ones I could only drive around in M at speeds from 5-10 mph for 14 miles before the low voltage code started flashing. One time I wasn't sure I was going to make it back to the house before it shut down. I just got back from a test drive. Both batts were at 95%. I traveled almost 20 miles in H range at or near top speed the entire trip. After arriving home one battery was at 63% and the other 68% so I roughly used 30% although the mfg. recommends not taking them below 20% for longevity. The torque it has now is almost too much. If your driving along at 15 or 20 mph. and you hit a bump, just a little extra pressure on the pedal will snap your head back. It held speed going up modest hills which even when new the vehicle wouldn't do. The battery management system is really great as well. Bluetooth connectivity to your phone. You can monitor each battery for voltage, amperage, temp, and wattage consumed. You can switch either battery on and off even while under motion. It actually drives a little smoother with only one battery on because the torque is a little lower. The BMS has overcharge prevention as well as low temp cutoff to prevent damage. You can also switch batteries on and off while charging. I'm not sure why one battery is being used a little more over the other. I just figure it's slight differences in internal resistances. I may contact the mfg about it at some point and see what they say. Everything worked just the same as with the old dry cells, even the temp. gauge on the dash. I'm not sure exactly were the sensor is so I was surprised when it started ticking up. The dash voltmeter is an unknown what it will show when I get near full discharge, but I suspect due to the nature of Lithium batteries, it will just stay on full until until near the end then drop quickly. My only issue is with the Delta-Q charger. I changed the charge algorithm to 386 which was the closest to what the mfg recommended (57.6 +- .8v) When the batts reach full charge the BMS stops all current flow. This causes the charger to flash yellow and show error code 013 which is battery is no longer accepting charge which is exactly what is happening. My only concern is what if any effect this will have on the charger. I can hear a relay clicking in and out as it continues to try to send a charge to the batts. Does anyone know if this will cause harm to the IC1200? I worry about leaving the charger plugged in overnight because the batts will be fully charged before I can get out there to unplug it in the morning. The only real issue I had with the installation was the physical size of the new batteries. They are much larger so they did not fit in the tray the way the old batteries did. I had to remove the trays and build a wooden ones and use ratchet straps to hold them in place. That will work for now, but I will need to figure out a better arrangement in the future. I am extremely pleased with how this all went and knowing I will get many more years of life out of the E1. I highly recommend this upgrade if you are considering it. The only unknown is will the batteries keep working without issue. They do have a 5 year mfg warranty, but since they come from China (as most things) who knows if they will be around then, but it wouldn't kill me to have to buy a replacement at some point at that price.

does sound like kind of an asshole don't he.

A BFH will fix it or fix it where it will never give you a problem again.

my skull is thick enough i don't have to....

And that's just the first week! It gets worse..The overheating, the gasket failures. The brake issues.If you can't fix it yourself, It really is cheaper to pay $3K more for a HONDA .

Lol, like you need more rain in the swamp 🤣

i have a kaw mule...............use it around house for hauling, plowing snow, etc.............but my mule is a 600..............no speed demon...............has been reliable (purchased 9 yrs ago), but with limited top speed, don't think it would be my choice for 10 miles drives.....agree with KLM, be ready to drop some cash, dealer access is extremely important (to me), and nothing you can buy at lowes, tractor supply, etc................good luck

I work on a ship that travels between Houston, Southern Lousiana, and Florida...miserable all summer. I dont know how you guys manage it. I never seem to find the right balance between staying hydrated and peeing constantly. I have worked asphalt barges in Lousiana in the summer too. 300 degree cargo means the temperatures on deck are even hotter since it radiates through the steel. Much nicer at home in Maine the other half of the year.

I guess it's whatever you are used to. Personally, I don't do well with humidity above 70%, like Alien10 says. I rarely leave the a/c in those conditions.

lol We only get low 70% humidity in January cold fronts...We wake up to 96% every morning ..Last year we actually had Heat index in the 120s for a month.. Its hot down here in the swamp.🥵

The engine is a 95% clone of YAMAHA Rhino but built with lesser quality parts and assembly..I Have replaced broken defective parts with YAMAHA Parts on my 500 Hisun engine. It has become acceptable SXS now. Mine broke on its first day in its first mile. Neither Hisun or Massimo would back warranty. 6 trips to shop all paid out of pocket..I discourage anyone from buying anything made by Hisun.☠

I really believe that the design of the Hisun 500/700 is very good but the people building them are very bad. They apparently know nothing (or just don't care) about quality control and customer support. If a good company were to buy them out and fire everyone that ever had anything to do with building them and replace with good engineers, QC, customer support people, they could corner the market. As it is now don't buy one unless you are fully ready to maintain it on your own because you will have problems.

That's sort of a confusing answer because of the way hisun terminology works. The engine & the wet clutch & the high/low/reverse gears (which is what we traditionally term a "transmission") all share oil. The rear differential has its own oil, but it isn't a "transmission" except in hisuns terminology. They also use the term "final drive" or something like that in some literature.

I fixed it -- evidentley when I checked the oil one of the times, I unplugged a green wire -- changed the oil today, noticed the unplugged wire, and now the issue is resolved...

welcome!

Yes, please see what you can do. Now, ads are popping up on top of posts and I cannot shut them down, so I can't even read certain posts. I click on the X in the corner and the ad changes with an arrow in the opposite corner. I click on the arrow and the previous as appears.

Are you talking about an electric heater? if yes its likely too much current. There might be 10 amps of available current coming out of the rectifier that isn't already claimed by the ECU and factory lights. 10 amps @ 12V = 120 Watts, which is about what an electric heating pad runs. If you're talking about a fan for a engine coolant based heater it's probably ok. If you have accessories and the running voltage is below 13.5V you have too much stuff attached. If the battery light comes on it means the battery is actively being discharged while running. Stator based charging systems on these things and tractors etc are really meant to power the ECU and factory systems not to provide a lot of extra power for other stuff, it's not like the alternator on a car.

happy new year!

The main trick is tilting the front end up. Block the rear wheels and jack up the front end at least a foot. A convenient ditch works well also.....rear wheels in a shallow ditch. The head bleeder screw should be opened. With the engine NOT running, almost fill the radiator (leave some air to avoid a mess) and burp (squeeze the lower hose line before the metal tube at the engine base passenger side floor area). Watch the radiator and the the bleeder. With the radiator "higher" than the head bleeder, the air should be bled and coolant dribble out. Close the bleeder and refill radiator (your clue you displaced the air with coolant) and start the engine. Burp more while running and if you get the circulation going the hoses will warm up. More bubbles should surface at the radiator filler neck. Shut off engine. Open bleeder and release any air in the head. The puke jug needs to be filled about an inch above the full cold line. Use a shop towel as a "seal"and use an air nozzle to SLIGHTLY pressurize the puke tank removing the air from the tubing line to the radiator neck. Then the radiator starts to overflow, a third hand can install the radiator cap. Run the engine and determine the head and hoses are at the close to the same temperature (as in warming up) through out the system. IR temp gun....fairly cheap now....can get real numbers. Scan the radiator, hoses, cylinder and head.....if all close you are done. Recheck fluids when done riding. Recheck the bleeder and top off the puke jug as required.

From the look of the picture on the post, I can think of a couple things

Its' not a car, this is a motorcycle engine with a small stator charging system. You can't expect to run high wattage accessories like a heater or huge light bars on these things . That will overwhelm the charging system, drain your battery an stop your engine. Could damage the charging system and voltage regulator too. You only have about 10 amps extra to run any accessories including lights.

My dealer gave me an electronic version of the service manual and I have sent it to Kingfish. I will see if it will upload here for others to use. I'm not sure if there is a more appropriate way to do this, let me know if there is.. 2015-2017 Service Manual - Sector E1.pdf