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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/20/2025 in Posts

  1. I'd have the dealer repair that machine while it is under warranty. Fuses don't just pop on a new vehicle. Fuses do not pop because linkage is not adjusted. You are experiencing an electrical problem and I can say with a high degree of certainty you will experience more blown Fuses in the very near future. The machine is protecting itself from the real problem by popping the fuse. The machine is also communicating there is an electrical issue to you Boss. Have it figured out before the warranty runs out or you may experience expensive troubleshooting diagnostics later.
    1 point
  2. Thanks,.. got it fixed, turns out there is a fuse interconnected with the brake safety interlock. It prevents the gearshift from being recognized. the linkage for the shifter was adjusted and that should solve all problems.. If any one has the same issue with a non start. it might be caused by the brake interlock system fuse. a 10 amp fuse popped. I had changed most of the fuses with the Start and Run functions. never thought there would be a connection to the brakes. weird Chinese Engineering I guess.
    1 point
  3. You also might consider talking to the selling dealer to push for a full replacement of your unit with a new one since it is an on going issue from new and the first dealer attempt to fix didn't fix it. If they resist, ask for the owner of the dealership and ask him/her how they are going to make you a happy customer. That might make your next dealer visit the last one for a while. Good luck on it.
    1 point
  4. Since my UTV is a slow moving property maintenance work horse and I'm constantly in and out of it, I just buckle the belt up behind me & tuck it in behind seat bottom. I wouldn't travel quickly or on any roads or on any "tippy" places without the belt on though, too much risk of getting tossed out and maybe crushed that way.
    1 point
  5. Harvey, Just curious, you mentioned the clutch parts separated. No way to rebuild it better?
    1 point
  6. Ok so it has spark. Next up fuel and compression. Fuel: Do you have fuel in the tank? When you turn the key to on (don't start it) do you hear the fuel pump run for 5 seconds then turn off? Should be a hum from under the passenger seat area. If those are both good pull the fuel line from the injector. It is right on top of engine. With the key switched on you should get a good fuel flow from that. If that's good reconnect it and remove the injector. Ground the spark plug to prevent inadvertent sparks. Hold a rag over the eng of the injector and have someone crank the motor over. You should get sprays out of the injector. Compression: Check the engine compression by installing a compression tester in the spark plug hole. Ground out the sparkplug again, and crank the motor over for a few seconds. If the motor is in good shape you should get 150+psi. Below 120 psi it likely won't run at all. If the compression is lowI would check the valve lash adjustment, if that's ok I would add little oil to the cylinder and check compression again to see if the rings might be the issue. Tools: You can make a spark plug grounding tool with a bolt, a ring terminal, some short wire, and an alligator clip. The bolt goes in the spark plug boot, ring terminal attaches the wire to the bolt, and alligator clip attaches the wire to a metal spot on the engine. This will prevent damage to the coil from having to jump a long gap, and prevent sparking when working with atomized fuel checking the injector. You can buy a cheap compression tester from Amazon or harbor freight. Let me know where you get to and we can further troubleshoot as you narrow down any issues.
    1 point
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