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Look for tiny bubbles in the coolant recovery bottle while running and normal temp or hot. Mine never got coolant in the oil but looked like Alka Seltzer in the recovery bottle.

Couple of other thoughts... A head gasket can fail to the oil passages, to the coolant system, or to the outside air. Are you getting excessive crank case blow by? Is there any external compression leakage? Are you getting combustion gases in the coolant system? Cap off coolant system shouldn't be expelling gases or pressure. Has the coolant level dropped or increased? Does the coolant appear to be contaminated in any way? (Oily, brownish tinge etc.) Just a few things that came to mind. Good luck.

Good news! Its fixed! Thanks Greg and others for all the comments. Really appreciate it. No matter what I tried, I was not able to adjust the shift rod to enable it to cycle thru all the gears. I removed the shift rod and opened the gear fan case. The issue turned out to be the fan gears being corroded. The pic shows the corrosion but it is hard to see how bad the teeth were. I was able to get it fixed by replacing the gear fan and then adjusting the shift rod linkage. This is a walkthru for replacing it. www.youtube.com/watch?v=FABLVRLNHtY Its now shifting better then it did when I first got it.

This was the solution

I don't need any stinkin TEMU coupons

The TPS does control idle, but other items can cause idle issues, such as a vacuum leak, carbon on the throttle plate and even a timing issue. Unfortunately Massimo doesn't produce detailed trouble shooting information on their UTV's.

I can't mark any comment as the answer because both members that helped me diagnose this beast has provided the correct information to diagnose the issue. Thanks to both Alien10 and Joe Breaux for the help. With the information both provided I'm 100% sure there is a blown head gasket. The breach of gasket material seems to be between the coolant channel and the combustion chamber. Now all that remains is do I down the machine myself or take to shop. That is going to depend if I can get an enclosed place to work on this beast. LOL Thanks guys I appreciate the help.

I have a 2017 Massimo 500 that is locked in 4 wheel drive don’t know if the switch is working or if it’s something else does it have a fuse for the switch

A little pressure in the radiator after sitting a few days would seem to preclude a head gasket failure between the combustion chamber and the coolant jackets. Pressure would push coolant into the cylinder or if failed between oil and coolant, into the crank case. Also when running, a head gasket blown into the cooling system will certainly provide pressure into the cooling system and exiting at the open radiator fill. There is a tester that will analyze the coolant to see if combustion products are contaminating it. Not sure if you can borrow one of these from a local auto parts store or not. There used to be a radiator air pump that you'd use in place of the radiator cap. Pump up pressure in the cooling system and watch the pressure gauge to see if it holds or bleeds off. In your video, the bubbles are somewhat consistent in volume over the course of the video with the engine idling. What happens if you raise the RPMs while watching the coolant in the radiator? Do the bubbles increase in volume as you would expect if it is coming from a head gasket leak into the cooling system. This is more of a guess on what you've found so far, but maybe there is still a big air bubble somewhere in the cooling system that is slowly percolating up as the pump is pumping the coolant.

I'm gonna say that a "stuck float" is the best possible answer. The pressure from the gravity feed was likely enough to push open the float valve.

Compression test clarification question. Did you get 120lbs that then bled down to 105 in 15 minutes of sitting? Or did you do a second test 15 minutes later and only got 105lbs. Remember, rings and pistons are not complete seals, they all naturally leak. Max compression is only required to be present during the power stroke, and for a fraction of a second. If there's no coolant in the oil, what else has convinced you of a failed head gasket? You might consider additional testing before tearing into the engine.

Been there..I had to pay to get it done because I had just had back surgery. Did not appear to be to difficult but after replacing gasket we realized the head was cracked..better check yours while it's off. This is a common issue on Hisun engine.I honestly think they don't torque the head bolts during assembly. None of mine were .good luck

I am trying to find a dash and hood for my Bulldog. Any help will be greatly appreciated. I am restoring it or trying too. Just no luck on a replacement for these at all.

Thanks, maybe they are all like that. If I hold it when I’m starting out it stays in gear! Thank you.

Alien 10, I have to hold my shifter in place like that to click in, and stay in gear. I think it’s a linkage adjustment, but I’ve never taken the time to work on it.

From what I could tell from the video. The guy just adjusted the shift rod, gear selector, and the indicator light to be lit for whatever gear the transmission was actually it. And not adjusting the actual transmission for the shifter. If that makes any sense. In other words he had the transmission shifted into high, then moved the shifter itself into high before loosening the shift rod to adjust the high lamp indicator to be lit. In doing so, he may have actually changed the position of the transmission into low or neutral. If so, the transmission could have been in low, for example and the shifter and indicator light could have indicated high. Make sense? I'd still remove the shift rod, then make sure the transmission shift easily into low, high, neutral, and reverse. You may need to rock the machine forward and/or backward just a little. And make sure there is not a lot of slop/slack in between the positions. Then move the transmission into reverse (or low), then move the gear shift handle into reverse (or low), then eyeball and adjust the shift rod to fit into the location. Then adjust the rod length to make sure the correct directional indicator lamp is lit. Then move the selector into the other positions and adjust the rod as needed. I haven't looked at mine and the diagram doesn't say. But I'd bet the shift indicator selector switch is located somewhere near the shift selector handle. Does any of this makes sense? I'm not a mechanic, so take the advice as someone that is just trying to help. Remember listen to me at your own risk. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

There is an actual service manual for these machines on this site. Can't remember who posted, the name, or download link. But search the manual library and you can find it. Here are some diagrams. 0 (The items numbers are off according to the description on 261 and 262) I didn't view the posted video. If it was me, after following the directions above to adjust the linkage and still was having issues. I'd completely disconnect the adjustment rod. (Item 5 on page 261.) Then check item 7 and item 9 on page 261 to make sure item 7 is engaged cause it looks like item 7 has a oblong slot that fits around the shift lever 1 assembly circuled in red in red in bottom picture (cover removed). That actually shifts transmission. Item 9 is the nut that holds item 7 in place. Then see if the transmission will shift into a forward gear by moving item 7 by hand instead of the shift handle. If so, then reattach the shift rod and adjust accordingly. When I shift my 500 into low, I have to apply just a little throttle to make the transition. I probably need to adjust my shift rod as well. Hope this helps some or at least points you in the right direction to resolve your issue. I'll watch the link and repost if I think of something else. I'm not a mechanic, so take the advice as someone that is just trying to help. Remember listen to me at your own risk. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Installation shouldn't be too difficult if you've got some pipe and a flaring tool to hand. It's working out where best to put the thing that's going to be fun! They're not very expensive, so I think I might give it a go.

I have not installed it yet. But it would need to be installed where it can be accessed by hand with two brake lines run to a brake line going to the UTV's brake line. It would be like cutting the brake line and installing the valve. How it works is you put pressure on the brake fluid with the brake pedal, activate the valve and it holds the pressure, thus holding the brakes, until you depress the brake pedal again that releases the valve and thus releases the brakes when you let up on the pedal.

Intrigued by this idea. My parking brake has been disconnected since I changed the batteries six months ago. I've become quite adept at parking in such a way that the buggy doesn't roll anywhere, although there have been a couple of times I've done that and one of the cows has started using it as a scratching post and sent it off down the hill!

R, next time it stops get out and see if the brake lights are on. The brake lights will shut off the motor and the brake light switch is problematic. May not be your problem, but is worth looking at.

I picked up a 10x17 just in case last weekend that was on sale for $179.

I removed the oil drain plug from the bottom of engine. Then took the rubber hose off the metal hose that runs to the top of oil cooler in front of radiator. Then took a cheap 12V air compressor. The $10 kind that from the dollar general that plugs into 12V car cigarette lighter port. And the adapter that is used to air up a beach ball. To push out the old oil from the cooler. Once the oil is gone you can hear the gurgles from the drain hole. Don't really have to worry about any kind of air bubbles in the cooler. The oil pump will take care of that when running. Just reattach everything and fill to oil level, run engine checking for leaks, turn off and let sit for 5 minutes or so, check oil level again and add as needed. Suppose to check oil before every start anyway. And any air in cooler can escape into the crankcase.

Dark outside not dark exhaust. No steam today other than the initial condensation that occurs when any engine starts and warms up. Going to change the oil again to try and get all the old garbage oil out.

I bought a "24" 550,my first impression was this thing is noisy,jerky,slow....But after 30 miles i changed the filter and oil to Mobil 1,immediate difference in engine noise,by the time i hit 40ish miles the belt had worn in and alot of the jerkyness stopped on takeoff,and running in low over bumps i was fighting the weak accelerator spring trying to hold steady rpm's so i put a stiffer spring 100% better and use only 93 octane it does not run well on 87.One problem with cabin noise is your sitting on the engine and its inside a big plastic hollow box that amplifies the sound,my next step is to add sound mat inside the box,So at 9k thats about right i paid almost 11k for mine new,bottom line is my father in law likes it over his honda pioneer 700,has more room and independent suspension,adjustable shocks,larger bed,with only 50miles on mine i cant say much on life of the machine but so far im liking it

Sounds like the contractor who assembles for your local Lowes had several to do at the same time. If it was a recent purchase, talk to Lowes and inform them that you have a mis matched tire and need it replaced.

I bought an Intimidator gc1k and i live in NM. I am in dire need of a dealer that can sale me parts for the 1000cc TGB motor. Can someone please send me info that sales parts?

You might check the coolant level and its condition as well.

All Balls CV Boot Kit......sold by MOTOSPORTS on line. Need model and year for the correct boot kit. I don't know if the 6 finger spreader tool is still available. Seen some cone type spreaders also (manual). You also need a banding tool to tighten the 2 ribbon band on both ends of the boot. CONTACT 866-667-6288

Has anyone researched the Kandi that Lowes is handling. Pro's or Con's?

Neither definately. I would like to leave it open for a few more days to see if someone else pipes up.

Txdoc and JB I realized they had problems a couple of years ag`o. Wondering if that cleared up or not. Was looking at one and it looked very attractive.

I am very skeptical of anything from Lowes or Tractor Supply...Most have issues right away and very little Mfr support if any at all.

You have a blown head gasket

Should be easy to track the leak...wash everything and then run it.

If you noticed my picture, that is our shie tzu that absolutely loves to ride and drive the two seat version that i am normally in.

Guys, Thank you so much for taking the time to help out a fellow trooper. I have a two seat trooper that runs great and has had no problems. I bought this one for spare parts and found out that it had 288 miles on it. Figured it would make a great family buggy for somebody that doesn't have the budget for the name brand units. Once I get it running I will look for somebody that fits that mold.

If you can't clean the injectors, then don't limit your search to Joyner only engines. John Deere and KawasakI and other lesser known brands use the 3-cyl version of your SQR472 engine. But you might end up buying 6 injectors They might be sold in packs of 3) if you can't buy them individually to get the four you need. You'll just have two spares.

On the schematic I'm looking at (which may or may not apply to our Trooper), the injectors get battery voltage from the main relay through a 15 amp fuse and a relay. The main relay is energized by the ignition switch in the run & start positions. The injectors get a short duration pluse that might show on an LED circuit tester. Incandescent lights can't react fast enough. But will appear on an oscilloscope (that many may not have available). If you can find a way to see that pulse, it will tell you if the injetors should be working. If the pulse is there, the injectors are bad.

Thanks for the welcome, I can't believe how the shifter locks up I talked to Justin Krep about it and he said that's the way they are being cable and not linkage I asked him about adjustments and he said there is none I feel there has to be a reason why and a solution somewhere.

You will need to locate and fix the source of the oil leak or you will be going through belts quickly. Sorry you are having an issue like this at 300 hours.

Unless you own or have regular access to wide open country, those "rockets" are a waste of money. Like many, if you need a machine to do work around the property, speed is your last concern. So Scott is spot on. I too have an off shore UTV, a Hisun 550 (Coleman Outfitter stickered). About 90 hours of hauling firewood, pulling down dead trees, fetching rounds out of the forested hillsides and hauling dirt, mulch and cut tree limbs and bush in the bed. It's a little on the "crude" side as far as operation and engine, but so far has been "OK". I operate in low range 100% and it is plenty of speed. Only thing so far is that the E-brake has failed. I think the caliper is froze up as there is plenty of pad left. Just haven't gotten into it yet. Overall, its just OK, not excellent. You might consider upping the budget as suggested by Joe B, and get a bit more quality build. However a lot of features are options on the big name brands. Personally, I'm not excited about buying used. Just too much unknowns there on this type of equipment. Just a few opinions here. Good luck in your search and purchase.

As I tried to do a conversion with the Yamaha 660 motor, I realized the 660 was never fuel injected so it would not work for the fuel injected hisun motor swap. But the good thing is the hisun 750 motor is a clone of the 660 Yamaha but with the components for the fuel injection (cam/crank position sensor). So that left me with a new rebuilt Yamaha 660 and still a broke 750 hisun motor. I took apart 750 think the timing chain had broke from all that I've heard about these motors. The chain was not broke, but just off cam and crank gears! The chain tensioner was at fault! I've ordered Yamaha 660 replacement parts, chain, two exhaust valves (which got bent when chain came off while motor was spinning) and seals. The piston has 2 little nicks where it had hit valves but no damage otherwise. The head is being redone at the machine shop and I'll be putting it back together in the next couple of weeks. Also I finally tracked down a Service Manual with all the info on the 550/750 Challenger.

I bought generic cover from Amazon that was designed for SXS UTV's. It has tie down anchors and straps. I used it for 2 winters and it worked well. I subsequently found space in my machinery shed for it.

I went to look at a cf Moto and the guy that worked there said that off the record he wouldn't recommend getting it because of complaints. After further inspection of the warrior we found that the rubber mount bushings had a lot of play and the coil overs were adjusted almost to the top.. After two tries I was finally able to get the right CV axle. Now I have to try to find some good rubber mount bushings. It also feels like the belt got wet so the clutch is a little sketchy. Fortunately I should be able to do the upgrades myself. I appreciate your reply. I'm always willing to get assistance in finding answers.

That’s what I was hoping it would be. All I need, many thanks my friend !!

Hisun Junk, how about a follow-up? What happened with your machine? I'm in essentially the same boat and am trying to decide what to do next.

Our R&D team just finished the first unit and wanted to show you guys. Need more cargo space without losing the functionality of being able to fold down the seat to use the full bed? Eagle Mountain Outfitters, the maker of the original metal UTV roof, has designed a foldable rear cargo basket to meet your needs. Price is $625 + $30 shipping. If you have any question's, please reach out to me at [email protected]

Thanks for the info.