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Since it's designed to go thru mud and water, I can't see how you can hurt it .Just don't spray into the air filter box.I pressure was my UTV and Atvs after each use to prevent corrosion

good point, perfect is hard to find in anything, especially UTV's.

I haven't had any service done there, just bought some parts for my Hisun 400 "Menard's Special." Rural King in Circleville, OH. I imagine that if they have parts any RK would.

Not long here myself, and don't have a Kioti anything, but welcome to the site! And a hearty Thank You!

I am going to replace the batteries in my E1. I am not interested in the high cost Lithium or the expensive 6 volt dry batteries. I am considering four 12 volt deep charge marine batteries. I have a source for 810 amp units for about $100 each. I have no worries about reprograming the charger because it went out a few years ago and I replaced it with generic golf cart charger. When I decide to do this, I'll keep you posted on the results.

I want to ditch my Kubota RTV-XG850 and its moronic twitchy throttle design flaw, get rid of the problematic engine and the 40 mph purposely throttled speed. So far, I'm looking at the Honda Pioneer 1000 and the Polaris Ranger 1000, both of which have 1000-1500 lb payload bed capacity. What other makes and models should I be looking at? Thanks for the help!

Even Kubota has its problem units..I know a guy who's unhappy with his Maserati..😯

Thanks for your help Joe, I have been very happy with mine. This is the first time ever had any issue, gets used for work and play. I guess at almost ten years old some of this is to be expected.

If you are not happy with a Kubota RTV-XG850 as a work UTV I doubt if you would be happy with any of the others.

Well thank you. I am retired now....actually came out of "retirement" to help T/S Chino units for a friend....turned into full time. We had Massimo. Went to the INDY and ORLANDO power sports and met the folks. They actually had the b---s and gave out our shop landline number for T/S help for dogs. I've seen some of your posts...you sound AOK. I have had a time with this old body. My lady in white on my right shoulder has always done me good. Better stop before it gets really deep. Ben

Thanks CSM! I wish there were more after market support. Please share if you find a place.

Funny you mention that. I purchased the factory mirrors from Kioti. Well while plowing close to Arborvitaes the passenger mirror broke off. Turns out the only thing holding it on was a bolt just countersunk in the plastic mold. Terrible design! So I replaced the mirror part with Amazon purchased cheap UTV mirrors. They look and work better then the much more expensive factory mirrors. If interested I can upload a pic.

CSM I have not found much, other than mirrors on Amazon, as aftermarket for my Kioti, 2200PS

Sounds like my Massimo...it was in the shop so much , it was like they owned it and I was just borrowing for a weekend..But Massimo never paid the warranty claims..not one.

Hondas seem to be the most reliable..if you want it for working, I would look at Hondas

I had 12V on the one post, but nothing happened when I turned the key to start it. It ended up being a loose connection going into the relay/fuse box. Far right connection doesn't seat the whole way. I have it ziptied in place for now, but would like a better solution. With the wiring fixed, I did a valve adjustment and it fired right up, but seems to be lacking power on hills. I just ran it around my yard real quick and definitely feels like it's lacking power on anything other than flat ground. I guess I'll have to inspect the clutch next.

Really depends whats most important to you. It sounds like speed and payload are the most important to you. Easiest way to compare is download the spec sheets and compare. That should be a good starting point followed by reviews and availability.

Yes I would replace the flywheel if the magnet is no longer there. The pick-up coil on the stator when the magnet on the flywheel pass it give out a electric pulse and also determines the engine timing the ecu if there an issue with the timing then I would check the key way on the flywheel. Second I would check the camshaft timing to flywheel to determine that your valve timing is correct.

👍Thanks. Learn something new every day

Trans is part of the name of the mule

As was already said, make sure the fan is working. You can easily hear it. Get a continuity tester and test the fan switch. Jumper the fan motor and make sure it works.

Thanks to EVSupport for the suggestion to check the 12V battery. I haven't had any problems with any of the 12V accessories including the winch, but out of curiosity I unplugged the UTV and turned off the main pack batteries (they have an on/off button, the US version doesn't have the "big red button" disconnect.) By the end of the day the 12V battery was reading 6V. The moment I turned the main pack back on I could tell it was charging the 12V battery, so the fact that I leave the UTV plugged in was masking the declining state of the 12V battery. Briefly looked for a lithium replacement because of the longer lifespan, but couldn't find one that I was sure would work with the charging designed for the lead AGM battery. So just replacing with the same.

I thought along the same lines. I needed a little verification b4 I proceed. Thank you Jim

I have had zero issues! I need to get the battery meter in the buggy updated to ready the battery level correctly but the Bluetooth app works perfect. I have way more range and so much faster. No low voltage errors.

No I left it alone.

ok here is my install 2018 Hisun Sector E1 had 8 AGM 6 volts in it and went with 4 48v Epoch Lithiums. The new charger is installed where the delta Q was and installed the new gauge on the best possible spot. charger port where the gas filler would be.

There should be oil pressure there to trigger the light so I don't see why you can't tap that for mechanical style gauge

Make sure your cooling fans is working

i have a 2020 hisun 400 utv and brought my bike to a yamaha dealer in canada they said they would work on it.which needed new timing chain and guides and topend rebuilt.after 4 months i went and picked up my bike because they said they couldnt get parts. so i got on amazon and recieved all parts within 30 days.now to get the repair manual out. lol

ebay & Amazon, it's a crapshoot, certainily no dealer support.

Joe, I'm in Michigan and using their "find a dealer" the only facilities I could find are either in Canada or in Ohio. Made me curious on whether anyone has found any near their locations. Have a good week.

Use good motorcycle oil. It has a wet clutch. I use Castrol Motorcycle oil.

Wow Ben... thanks for the comprehensive explanation. Thanks for taking the time, as you will have saved many the time and frustration in getting the engine timed correctly.

BTW.......rocker shafts are removed by screwing in an 8mm??? bolt and then pulling on the bolt head and/or slide hammer. Rockers are then removed. You first need to check the possible sheared crankshaft key. Take a soft copper wire about 16" long and put a finger loop on one end. Stick the wire into the spark plug hole and rest on the piston dome.......slowly rotate the engine. The TDC on the crank should align when the copper wire is at it's highest point and will fall back from it's peak as you rotate back and forth at the TDC mark. I like to dab some paint on the crank to make the mark easily spotted when doing any timing jobs. Compare to the first pic. Leave at TDC. NOTE: There are 2 TDC with a 4 stroke engine.......720 deg of rotation. The position of the cam at TDC will determined if it is OVERLAP or compression/IGNITION/power . This has caught many a person on V-Twin engines that will run BUT be low power and the wrong exhaust note. Both cams are "TDC" and fire OK but they are not "phased" correctly. Short and Loooong intervals between the front and rear cylinders power strokes.....gives a lumpy sound. Yours is a single cylinder. Your timing was correct or off by one tooth. Your pic is shot at an angle so hard to tell. When you are putting the new head and cam on, inspect the cam assy. Get a good look at the cam and the compression release "mini cam". Slide in the cam with the lobes AWAY from the rocker slipper pads. REF your pic above........The longest RED ARROW aligns with the cam mounting bolt(s) and the cam gear punch mark which is hidden when assembled. It is UNDER one of those stamped thin step folded metal "keeper" for the flyweights. When the flyweights sling out with engine RPM rotation, it will turn the smaller round disc by way of the dual connecting pins. The cam gear timing mark (dimple) is under the upper (in your pic) keeper close to the teeth. Right below this bolt is the timing mark for the compression release mini cam.....the quarter sized CENTER disc in your pic. It is just barely showing (about half of the dimple circle) adjacent to the RH side of your RED ARROW. This dimple should align with the cam gear dimple....NOTE: It can be put in 180 deg out relative to the valve cam. I always put a dab of white paint on the cam gear timing mark with a little smear almost up to the teeth (on the machined rim) so you can see the timing mark AFTER the keepers are installed under the cam mounting bolts. Timing alignment: (1) TDC mark on the flywheel at case mark WITH the slack taken out of the tensioner side of the cam chain (no tensioner installed yet) along with (2) cam gear paint mark AND and the dimple in the center disk (compression release mechanism). Install tensioner and "hand" crank (turn over) the crank to ckeck for binds. Special note to NOT adjust the valve clearance when the cam is on the compression release ball. Hand turn the crank to the TDC and at slow RPM (as in hand crank) the flyweights will be pulled in with the springs (the compression release is active and holding the exhaust valve slightly open with a small ball under the exhaust rocker.........will give the wrong valve adjustment. Continue turning in the direction of rotation until the ball clears the rocker (recess back into the hollow cam center). Finger tighten the adjustment screw to ZERO clearance and reverse the rotation. When the compression release ball starts to get under the cam, it will "lock up the flyweights". Manually rotate the flyweights to the extended rotation (RUN) position and your should be able to reverse the motor/cam even more. When close to TDC, adjust to spec clearance. The extra step above seems to be extra and not needed but what you are looking for is a bad batch of compression release cams....... the flyweights did not collapse to the fully closed position. I had these cam problems also in the Yam Rhino (identical weight tab welds and tooling cuts (same OEM???) and my modified cam (my personal shelf stock) given away to fix a Rhino. My modification was the grind the excess material on the welded on tab to give the rest of the clearance at where it rubbed the compression release "quarter sized " disc. Covered in an earlier BEN 1098 post.

CSM, how do you like your Kioti?

THis might not be related. I have a 550 UTV and I use primarily the low forward gear. This means the shifter must be pushed fully upward. I noticed that there is a very slight "click" and a final movement if I hold the shifter all the way up as I begin to move the UTV. As if it is not quite fully engaged without that last extra push as I give it a little gas. I also found that some UTV dealer (Hisun/Coleman dealer) had a video pointing out this very same thing. Like I said, may not be the problem you have. Good luck.

That’s great CSM. You must have the K9? What type of plow did you get, was it hired to install? I have 2200PS, and after the first year of warranty problems, I like mine too. Mine tops out at about 24-25 mph, but I don’t run it that fast. It’s too loud. I don’t have a plow, but I’m thinking of getting one. I did install the skid plates, CV guards, roof, windshield and light horn set. Sadly mine has so many problems from the get go, the dealer had it 7 of the first 12 months.