bruhaw

I had the same problem last year and it was due to dirt accumulating around the TO bearing like it was on Kinarfi's. I pulled the transmission and had it looked at and it had some bad syncros so while it was out I replaced the entire transmission and it was not cheap.($1300) Now I have a back up tranny but still waiting on the syncros from Casey at JMC. Syncros are cheap but couldn't get them anywhere. I did the same thing based on Lenny's and Casey's advice and sealed everything off so it doesn't happen again. There are a number of areas where fine dust can get into and get trapped on the slight amount of grease on the TO bearing. If you ever have problems getting it into gear and then it seems fine every now and then it is because the bearing and fork are sticking and hanging up on the input shaft. Sometimes good and then bad. I actually thought it was a bad master or clutch cylinder but unfortunately it wasn't because I had changed those out too.

I think I may have a ring and pinion. I replaced my original trooper ring and pinion with the commando ring and pinion as I wanted more low end power. I had put 30 inch tires on and so I wanted more low end. I will look and if I can locate i will PM you. Might take a day or two but will try and locate.

Call Casey at JMC as he will know.

Easiest way to do the manifold is just cut of the flange and reverse and weld back up. No drilling, etc required. I flipped mine and I don't think I gained much power but easier to get to starter and the electrical components as then they will all be up top as seen in Plumber's picture. My bed doesn't hit at all with the stock one flipped. Other way to gain power is match port the intake and also the exhaust as they definitely don't match up well.

Looks great 2Scoops and now it actually might hold in a rollover which is the most important thing.

Will be way too heavy as mentioned. With 30" Mudlite ITP's that I ran for just a little while they did rub some. I didn't modify frame and just had a bit of rubbing so you could get by. I now run 30" BFG All Terrains and not too heavy and they don't rub because the tread isn't aggressive.

Lenny said to go with a Heavier Duty PP and disc but not a puck style disc. I went with what Silver Bullet offers and it works fine. The pedal seems the same and there is about 30% more clamping force from what I was told. The disc is an Exedy which is a good quality disc/material. For $40 I think you can't go wrong by going with the heavier duty set up.

Great. We will come by and see you. Also, you can't miss us as we both have the Trooper T4's. See you Saturday, hopefully.

For those of you in AZ and CA there is a Poker run coming up March 15th in Parker AZ. 70 mile marked course and it is the 29th annual so the guy has done it just a few times. Cost is about $75. Anyone interested in going see attached flyer. Still time to sign up and you can call Rodney to discuss if you can sign up at the event. Should be a good time. I know 2 Joyner Troopers that are going. Myself and a friend of mine. Also here there is someone that lives in Parker that might be going but not sure of his name.

I have never had that problem with mine with both O2 sensors disconnected. I use a Innovate gauge and have the O2 sensor for that plugged into the first O2 port on the exhaust. You can have problems if you don't have the fuel controller in a certain spot at idle. The kits comes with how you can increase and decrease fuel to the injectors and I ran into a problem when I changed my air filter to a larger unit with more breathing capability and I screwed up my settings. I had a problem where just at idle and then even driving I was having some issues. Turns out the fuel controller wasn't always in control and the stock sensors were playing a part in everything. Ran like crap depending on the speed. I called Dobeck Performance who manufactures the unit and he walked me through everything. The guy is great and knows all there is. If that fuel controller isn't at a certain setting it seems not to want to actually control the fuel system anymore. Call him and you should be able to figure it out with his help. I forget his name but he has been there at least the last 3 years as I called him during the past 7 months and over 3 years ago when I got the controller. As far as resetting the ECU, yes I have heard that. You can also just leave the battery disconnected for a good period of time and it will eventually lose the codes if there are any or for the quick reset you can touch the cables together. That is true even on our Joyners. Good luck and let us know what you find out from him. Getting an Innovate gauge will help as you will know what air/fuel you are running at idle and at all other speeds and you will be able to dial in the controller better. The guy at Dobeck knows all about them and wiring up as well so talk to him about that too. Take care.

Those who thought it was dust and dirt in the housing were correct. However it wasn't so much on the pressure plate but rather dust accumulated around the splines on the shaft that was causing the throwout bearing / clutch fork to hang up and not release. Thus pumping the pedal a number of times would finally release it and now I know why. It was pretty gummed up and that was the issue. Wanted to make sure there were no issues with the transmission and I took that to a shop I know well and they said I should probably replace the syncros while I had it apart as a few of them were looking worn. Problem is finding them because you can't. Will have to wait for Casey from JMC to get them from China and thus I just got a whole new transmission and put in with a heavier duty clutch and pressure plate. Was going to do the fork and gusset it but the fork is heat treated and is a pain to remove so I left that alone. The pressure plate is only about 30% greater than stock and the fork really doesn't seem that bad. So once I can get the syncros I will have the old transmission put back together and will have a replacement. Syncros are only about 8 bucks and they can put it back together for a reasonable amount. Good news is that I got everything put back together and put 160 miles on it last weekend and the clutch was smooth as can be. I pulled the engine and transmission together along with leaving the radiator and all the cooling attached. Made it pretty easy to do it all together. While I had it out I sealed all the openings between the engine and transmission around the bell housing. Nothing can get in or out which will keep the dust and water out. I talked with Casey and he says many of the guys in the south do seal everything up because of the water they go through. I just have problems with the dust, especially the fine stuff and that is what did me in. So, if you ever do the clutch I would recommend to seal it up good. Pretty hard to do and actually almost impossible to do in the car. The one area you could do is where the starter bolts to the engine. On the side you can't see up against the engine there is a fairly good sized opening that dust can get into. That one you can do easily if you remove the intake and starter itself. Overall not that tough of a job but did take 3-4 hours to remove and the same to put back in. Just putting everything back together is tedious. Getting drive shafts in and out were no problem at all as aligning them and popping them back in was not hard. Thanks for all the replies as it helped lead me to finally pulling everything out and digging deeper into it.

Only issue now is that the fork isn't heat treated. Should be OK but I didn't do because of the fact that I wanted to heat treat after welding gusset. This is a diaphragm clutch so that fork really doesn't have to push that hard so either way I think we are both safe with it. Not sure if Lenny heat treated his after welding or not. He told me the other day to take a file to it and see if it made a mark while filing on it and it did not which means our forks are heat treated. Talked with Casey at JMC and he says the transmissions are actually pretty stout and built in government factories unlike the exploding out of tolerance differentials we have. Lenny's kit takes care of those and makes them a nice unit when finished shimming, etc.

You have to make a tool to remove the bushing and pound out of the transmission housing after removing the seal. The kit is $60 or so from JMC and it comes with both bushings, new seal, throwout bearing as well. I was going to beef up the fork as well but consodering the time and effort to remove bushing and then weld a gusset on a fork that is already heat treated I decided against it. I got a heavier duty pressure plate which is probably 30% stronger clamping force than stock and it is probably just fine with the oe fork. I will post what I found out on my clutch problems under the topic clutch problems later. You will find it to be very interesting and costly I might add.

Yea Big Dan it looks like fun but could be costly when it is all over. Not much water to go through out here in Southern CA so I don't even have the opportunity to go through creeks and small rivers or ponds. Thanks for all the replies. I was hoping it wasn't the clutch as I already had it replaced in a pinch last April. Disc only as JMC and others did not have the Pressure plate. I had it fixed quickly and by a former Joyner dealer because I burned it up one weekend and was going on a big trip the next Thursday so I gave him basically three days to replace it. Dropped it off Monday and picked it up on Wednesday so can't say it was his fault. He checked the plate and said it seemed like it was still in good shape. I think that is where the problem lies and it is now a weak spring or somehow it is just not disengaging. Ordered a heavier duty plate and an Exedy disc and will have shortly. Also going to change the TO bearing and pilot bearing this time and have the flywheel resurfaced. I have the time on this go around so going to do it right. Even going to beef up the fork as Lenny said to do on one of his posts way back when. The plate is about 30% more clamping force than stock so that should help on rock climbing, etc. Will have it out over the next few days and will let everyone know for sure what the problem is. Again appreciate the help and input.

Been having problems with clutch going in and out of adjustment. Thought it might have been a bad master and changed that and bled well and worked fine for a few miles and then same problems. It will grind going into reverse or even in other gears and sometimes cannot even get it out of gear or back in gear. Have to pump the pedal or just keep moving the shifter and finally it goes in. Weird thing is that sometimes it is very smooth and no problems and then it just starts having problems again. So, after I did the master and had problems I decided to do the slave as well. Replaced it and bled well and same problems. Works and then doesn't work. I have tried the adjusting rod at the master and at the slave with moving the rods in and back out, etc. to no avail. I also vary the distance on how far I push the pedal in. Meaning I won't go all the way to the floor but maybe 3/4 and still no real difference. I did put a limit bolt in so the pedal wouldn't go as far down but that didn't help either. Anybody out there ever experience anything like this. If it was consistently bad then I would say adjustment or something wrong inside the transmission but it works great sometimes.

Lenny and Big Dan. Thanks for the replies. I have the slave reinforced and did that way back. It is solid and is not flexing. Not sure what is going on with the bit of grinding. I hope it is not the syncros. Can't seem to figure it out.

Thought I had a bad clutch master because I was having shifting problems into pretty much all gears. Would make adjustments to the rods at both the clutch master and at the slave and it seemed to fix the issues but then it just came right back. I thought maybe the master was bypassing so I got a new clutch master and bled the system completely and still was having issues. Did a number of adjustments at both the master and slave and even moved the bracket that engages the clutch and moved it a tooth to get more out of it. Good news is that it is smooth shifting now in all gears except downshifting into 3rd it seems to catch and will grind a little. Before the adjustments I was having problems even getting it to shift back into 3rd gear and sometimes 2nd on a downshift. Now the only problem seems to be downshifting into 3rd unless I am at a very slow speed which it is then smooth. Do I now just have a syncro problem and need to open up the transmission. If so has anyone replaced any of the transmission parts? I think you have Kinarfi but not totally sure. I seem to remember a post but couldn't find it on a search. Plus not sure if it is a problem inside the trans or just need to keep fine tuning the adjustments. Appreciate any feedback.

I agree with it making some noise. I had a lot smaller K&N and it made more noise than this one. My buddy is using one he bought from Pep Boys and it is much noisier. So, it depends on the filter. Mine is very tolerable and you can talk to each other without any problems. So, again it depends on the filter. I almost think the bigger the filter the less the noise at least that is how it worked with my set up.

As previously mentioned going with the fuel controller and actually dialing it in is very helpful so that would definitely be one thing. Doing the snorkel with a good filter is also another. I have posted a new pic of the way I did mine in the gallery. I run a lot in the desert so I have gone to an oil less pleated filter that you just blow out with air to clean. I run a pre-filter but it is not on the filter in this picture. No more oil and no more clogged filters. The maker is R2C. Power steering from Super ATV is another upgrade many of us did on this forum and it is probably one of the biggest difference makers. Definitely worth the money. For where you are at and the riding you do the best thing is making sure you are waterproof. Water splashing from underneath the front will probably go up and behind your dash and using either canvas or something else can keep water from getting all over up there. I haven't done it because of my riding conditions but just seeing others and talking to JMC that can be a major problem area. Hinging your hood is another nice thing to do as it is a pain to continue to undo the screws holding it down to access that area. Good luck with all the projects and riding!

Jimmy, what is the name of the shop in Phoenix you are having your work done at?

I got the tool from Autozone which is an axle remover. Looks like a slide hammer and with a few good pulls the axle will pop out. Easiest way to get it out. In the gallery I have an actual picture of it but if you go to Autozone or another parts house they will probably have one.

Lenny - thanks for sending this out. Next time I have to replace the clutch I will look into doing this. It definitely couldn't hurt by having a little stronger fork in there. Take care.