bruhaw

Lowgear - I have some 26X10X14 and 26X11X14 ITP Bajacross tires for sale that have about 350-400 miles on them. In great shape if you are interested at all. I can send pics if you are at all.

I have two sitting and waiting for installation and will use them this off season. Lenny - my buddy has a Trooper now and will probably need 2 as well so I think if you make some up he will end up buying 2 as well.

No doors unless I have someone's template for a T-2 and/or T-4. Ricksrb has a t-4 so maybe we could use that. I have a T-4 for all the body parts and yes they would be fiberglass and could be widened and possibly molded so they would be higher up.

It seems that locating body parts for the Troopers are tough. Even the distributors of the new 2012's don't seem to be able to get any. Fenders and rocker panels are the main things that break obviously. I have a new tenant that actually mfg's fiberglass body parts for autos, Side X Sides, etc. and if I give him a body part of my Trooper he can make a mold and produce them. Does anyone have any interest in being able to get the body parts? If so, let me know and I can check on pricing of what some of the parts would go for. He could also go larger on the fenders for some of us who have gone with bigger tires.

I am now registered for Friday to Sunday. Hope to be there by noon on Friday. My friend Tom is also coming and he just got an 08 T4. Looking forward to meeting some of you out there. Bruce

Thanks for the reply Exile. I set you a PM with a few more questions.

Have you talked to Casey at JMC? That would be a good starting point I would think. He might have one or know at least where to get one. Other option would be No Limits. They say they have a number of parts in stock.

Yes, ITP Mud Lite XXL in 30X10X14 and 30X12X14 are available. They are expensive but will fit. Just wondering if there will be any problems with fender well and having to do any modifications.

I know some of you have put 31" tires on and have had to do some fender well modifications. Wondering if I go to a 30"X10X14 on stock wheels if I will have to do any fender well mods up front. Hoping to be able to just use stock wheels mount the tires and have no issues with it rubbing on the well. I know 28" tires will be fine but hoping to maybe get that extra 1 inch of ride height with a 30". I have a T-4 so I high center at times.

Okay, after I posted I decided to google the Python and they are making 2012's. Here is the link. http://joyner-usa.com/800cc-python/ Looks a little different but for sure light and probably fast like he told me.

Anyone ever hear of a Joyner Python? Met a guy today that has one of only 7 that are in the US. Not sure if this is true or not but that is what he told me. I never heard of it so there probably aren't that many. It is an 800CC and a two seater that is about 700 pounds. He says it is fast and I imagine at that weight and CC's that it is. Just wondering if anyone else has seen or heard of one. It is a 2009 and he bought it new. He showed me a picture off his phone but couldn't really tell what it looked like. It is also a 4 speed.

I used an Autometer aftermarket on the oil pressure and obviously lost the idiot light sensor because of that. I was able to go directly into the block with the adapters that came in the Autometer gauge and I didn't even have to use metric adapters which shocked me. So, it was pretty easy to say the least. On the water temp I went Autometer and used a Renegade housing to mate to the block and tapped in the temp sensor on the side of it. I left the stock sensor that goes in the engine and just clipped the wires going to the gauge. You will have to run a new wire back to the Autometer sensor as the stock wire doesn't work. So, you can definitely do it for the water temp and I feel much better having that gauge on which is also bigger and easier to read. On the oil pressure you could probably wire it up and have the warning light work but I haven't gotten around to it.

Lenny - what size on the wheels and tires. Looks like it brings the clearance up a pretty fair amount which is definitely needed on the Troopers especially mine being a T4

I am going and there maybe one other person with a Joyner coming albeit borrowed. He is coming with me for sure but not sure yet about the borrowed Joyner. Will know tomorrow. Could either be a Turbo T-4 or Turbo T-2. Either would be OK with me and him.

Welcome Goindeep! Glad to have you here and it sounds like you will be a welcome addition to the Joyner Forum. On the starting issues - Search this forum by typing in T2 Starter or just starter. The thread is actually T2 starter and it was started by Charlie. Most likely you need to put in a relay and just run a new wire from the ignition switch to the relay. A number of us have had similar problems. I just recently did and just first put in the relay which didn't solve the problem as it turned out my wire from the ignition switch back to the starter solenoid was bad somewhere in between. That should help you on the starter. There are a number of parts that are interchangeable but some of them just have to try and be matched up. Some of them there are part numbers for so go to one of the first threads that talks about Joyner replacement parts and you will see part numbers, etc for the most common parts. I would say review the first number of threads to start off with as there is good info in them. Even the belt you can get at Autozone as I got an extra there one day by just taking in the part number off the stock belt. Which ironically is a Gates. There are a number of threads on the differentials and Lenny, Plumber and a couple of others on here run superchargers and turbos. There are a number of threads on that as well. Just start searching and you will see. You can spend half a day reading these old threads as there is a lot!

I thought I was going to see pictures of a Trooper. That ain't no Trooper now. Very nice is all I can say. When and if you ever sell it you will have to say 98% handcrafted parts and a couple of Joyner Trooper stock parts on it.

Well it looks like the replacement Bosch but for that price it isn't. But hey you could almost buy 3 of them for the cost of 1 real Bosch.

Problem is those I don't beleive those are real Bosch pumps. Most parts stores will sell at about $140 or more. Part number is 69609. The $59 is for a Chinese imitation. Silver Bullet sells both and the Chinese is $89 and the real Bosch is $180 or so. I did some checking today and that is what i discovered. No link attached that I can see Dirty Dog.

I put the Kings on and they work great. They are expensive $2,200 - $2,500. I don't have the part number as it wasn't on the invoice but they do make them exactly for the Troopers. I didn't not change anything as they are set up very well. Just bolt on and go. McCoy Motorsports shows they sell them. I did not get them there though. When I bought my Trooper I had them put Kings on after I test drove it 60 miles. Difference is night and day.

I first tried to brighten things up by changing out the two outer bulbs to 100W and inner light bulbs to 55W on the light bar. The original 35W bulbs are cheap and they pull about the same or more than a good replacement 55W bulb. I think even with the higher watt bulbs I was still pulling about the same amount of draw as I had them all checked at a place that deals with off road lighting. I had them working for a little while and then blew the 15amp fuse. Don't know if it would have blown again but I just disconnected one 55W light and they were fine. Later on, I then replaced fuse with a 20amp and it was OK. Still not enough light so I replaced all the lights on the bar with 4" Hella Optilux HID lights and what a difference. Easy wiring as you can just cut the ends of the original lights and splice to new lights. The Hella's don't even draw as much as the stock so there is no rewiring or changing anything else. It does make a huge difference. As far as the headlights I looked online and at auto parts stores and I just couldn't find a high low beam 35W or 55W bulb to replace what we have. I think Ricksrb had found then but he said he couldn't remember where I believe. Rick - did you ever remember where?

Casey at JMC also has one. It is tapered as well. Around $50. 480-545-1693 is phone number there.

Good news now. It fired up after wiring direct to relay from switch. Must have been something in between with that solenoid wire. Either way I learned quite a bit on electrical with all of your help Lenny, Kinarfi and Charlie. At least I know that I have a relay installed now so that eliminates some of the possible starting problems. I had run two wires though the tunnel from the front to the back just in case I ever needed them. I have a T4 so I have to remove the cowling down the middle and there are a number of screws on that one. So, to save time I put in two extra wires. Now down to just one but all is good. Just have to put everything back together and tidy up the wiring. THANKS AGAIN GUYS. Hope this thread helps someone else down the road.

Perfect. I will give it a try tonight and let you know. Thanks for all of your input Lenny, I am crossing my fingers that does the trick and I have NO more questions.

Lenny - From what I have read we have 3 relays in the fuse box and they are fuel pump, fan and engine. Not sure which relay that starter solenoid wire would go to. Should I just change out all the relays and if so can I just match them up at an auto parts store. I could do that or what I am thinking about doing is running a wire directly from the starter ignition switch to the new relay 85 and just leaving it at that. The old starter wire going to the relay behind the seat would then be dead which is fine. Whatever relay it is going to now must be working because everything else seems fine. Fan, fuel pump, efi, etc. What route should I go with. New wire or try new relay?

I went ahead and used the new wire going to the starter solenoid and disconnected from the relay and went straight to 12 volt power and it turns over. So, it seems like the original wire going to the solenoid could be the problem. Now the question is how I run a new wire and where it goes. Tracing down the solenoid wire would take a good deal of time for sure.