lowgear

Iam changing my system to straight power thru switch, fuse, then coil and injectors. I will be using 2 switchs one for each.I have eliminated all the relays in my elec. system. I checked as much info as I could find on auto type elec systems and found out that the reason for relays was not to put a sever amount of stress on the rest of the system ie ECU,alt, and gauges, because the fan, fuel pump, coil and injectors pull a lot of power on start up and without relays it might burn out the other components on some type of feed back. I have seperated them from the rest of the system with there own power supply and control.

My clutch did about the same thing, push in clutch all the way and hard or no shift. I found out on mine that to push the clutch in all the way to the fire wall caused the fluid to bypass inside the master cyl. I put an adjustable stop on the firewall to keep the pedal from going to far worked great. All it is was a 1/2in bolt with two nuts one was welded to the firewall and the other was used as a lock on the bolt for adjustment. You will have to drill a hole too for the bolt to go thru the firewall.

Thanks, I thought I could but I wanted to make sure, I have enough problems without making new ones.

Kinarfi, do you know if the relay for the injectors and coil can be set up on a manual switch. I have put the fuel pump and fan on seperate power lines and switchs to try and get rid of my surge, it has helped and it seems to have made more power and smoother running. I physicaly checked the wiring on my t2 to make sure the wires went to each unit because on mine the wiring is very bad for colors and size of the wires, even from one side of a connector to the other. The injectors are activated by a ground from ecu and coils are straight power, there is one relay for both.

It seems that if one or more of us had the means to buy quanity from this maker it would sure benfit everyone.

I've never taken one apart but it sounds like the armature has some type of bearing or bushing on the inside to spin on the shaft. but if it does this how does it pump fuel or does the armature have a vain type setup that pushes fuel over it and out.

The free flow rating on elec. in line fuel pumps is at Opsi. The more pressure you set at the regulator the less flow you will get out of the pump. Talk to any of the makers of these pumps that is what they will tell you. I did a small test to see myself, I set up a cannester with markings on the side and put the feed line in. Then I timed how long the pump ran, in my case it slowed the output down too 52gph. That is with a pump rated at 70gph. I don't know what that would do to a smaller pump. I do run mine at 70psi so my results will be differient than most. I talked to the tech guy at Kinsler Injection and he confirmed that if the system is set up to handle the extra pressure it will atomize the fuel better and it will put more fuel in at the same timming the drivers are set at. He also told me that if the system is gravity fed that the pump should'd be more than 12" away from the tank, less chance of cavitation that usually is the case of pump failier.

WOW! he sure has made a lot of mods to it, and for 5500h. that sure seems awful cheep but it does look good. Bed looks like the one off the Rhino. I wonder how he has it set up to dump.

Yes I'll buy them send me a PM where to send the money and I'll give you a return address.

Thanks I'll try calling the police in colorado.

Thanks ricksrb, guess I'll just wait and see.

Does anyone know if Mauy Thai1 is still around, I sent him a PM on the 19th and have not heard back. I want'd to know about some injectors he has.

Does anyone know if Mauy Thai1 is still around, I sent him a PM on the 19th and have not heard back. I want'd to know about some injectors he has.

Lenny probably has the very best set up, but we should'nt have to go to those extremes to get fuel to these engines. ERV JR is right about the position of the return line being next to the feed line. I changed mine, located the return about 4-5 in . above the feed and put in a feed line that is 5/8in id. with a shut off. I don't have any problems with feed anymore. I myself feel that I need more from the pump itself. Everyone should take some of the suggestions to heart because they are right and do as you think it should be done. I'am not trying to start anything it's just my opinion.

I sure hope his wiring is better than mine my wires not only change colors but also sizes frm front to back.

Kinarfi is very right about using brass fittings you don't want a fuel leak or possibly air getting into the line. After talking to Lenny the other day I bought a racing type cannister fuel filter. The element is replaceble and not to expensive, the do come in many different sizes and basicly they are desinged for our type of application.

Thanks ERV JR for the referience. I checked on the specks on that pump and by what I found the are not as good as the stock pump. Free flow 30gph, 70psi thru the regulator. I want to increase both because I'am having some problems with the engine not getting enough fuel and if I want to modify my engine later it needs to be enough to cover the mods.

I found these AMERICAN MADE pumps at Summit Auto. MSD 2225 43gph, 70psi,$105.95 Trick Flow TPS 25004P 43gph, 85psi ,$84.95 Airtex 110-E8248 70gph, 120psi $123.95. I think I'am going with the Airtex more than enough for any application and with a return in the system no worries with to much fuel. It also is a vain style pump a much more efficent pump.

To answer your question wether to buy a new sensor, I tried it and it did not help I can't tell you what causes this problem but I did leave mine unhooked for about 50 miles and it didn't seem to have any effect on the ECU, but you my find out something different on your's.

Oh Boy!!! I never should have said anything about not having any problem with my fuel pump, it quit on me yesterday while out in the middle of nowhere. Lucky for me I had a spare one with me. I'am going back to the Bosch pumps no more trying to save a couple of bucks. Personally I will not recommend these pumps, spent the money and get a good one.

I bought one of these pumps in june last year. Mine is still working good but now I think I'll buy another type pump for a spare and keep it with me just in case.

Yes I unplugged the speed sensor to find my problem but I plugged it back in I want to know how fast I'am going because I drive my on the street a lot. It's OK to unplug just be sure you squeeze the wire retainer enough so it will pull off easy.

My 08 does the same thing, I just unhooked the iac like lenny said, as far as the idle being a little high when you stop then falling back down I was never able to find the problem to correct. If you disconnect the speed sensor it will probably quit doing it, but you won't have a speedo. I left it connected and put up with it like it is, yes it is very annoing. If you find out what it is let me know.

Lenny, I need to talk to you about the crank sensor you said you have, but I would like to talk somewhere other than this way but I don't know how to send a private message on here. Can you tell me how I can do this. Email, phone, or whatever.

I checked everything out no luck. I disconnected the speed sensor for something different. The surge lessened significantly and changed slightly in the rpm band, instead of 2000 to 3000rpm it went to 2100 to 2700rpm. The surge when shifting stayed the same. Does the crank sensor only send one type of signal to the ecm or is it a multiple type sensor that sends more than one impulse. The flywheel has more than one knob that could be sending more than one signal, with more than 2 wires on the sensor I was thinking that it might be doing just that. It has always seemed to me that the surge is timing related because of the consitantcy of it, always between 2000 and 3000 rpm and the rappidy of it, like flicking a switch and yes I have already changed out the speed sensor but not the crank sensor.