lowgear

I will give everything a try thanks.

I tried a computer off another t2 it did the same thing. I know this is a very wierd problem but if anybody gets another idea please let me know.

Thanks Lenny, thru the day I did some checking on the injectors, fuel pump pressure and some other things. I didn't notice before but when it quits there is no fan or fuel pump. I checked that new relay by putting in another one, no luck. I'll try calling silverbullet and see what they say. If there is anyone near me with a T2 there not saying anything. It's diffacult being out in the middle of nowhere. this time of year there are lots of side by sides here but I think I'am the only one with a T2, anyway thanks again .

Somwhere I read that you replaced your cps because of a miss or hesatation or something? I know have a new problem to go with my surge, sometimes on the let off it will die but as soon as i touch the throttle it comes back to life. I was wondering if it might be related to the cps, it and the crank sensor are the only ones i have not replaced. I have gone through everything else. I might be barking up the wrong tree it might still be the ecu.

Is it from engine to wheels or a partial and how much?

Lenny, did you machine out the stock throttle body or did you change it to an aftermarket one. I was going to match ports as soon as I can find gaskets I think there are some on ebay. I have seen on here that some have flipped their intakes, I can't do that on mine pattern is wrong. I was going to redesign the intake to just an aluminum box that bolts to the steel manifold. I think that buy shortening the runners it will increase the low end power, the longer runners are good for high rpm running but too much volumn for low end,these engines are to small for the setup as is. What do you think?

I changed my snorkel from the 1 1/2 in. to a 3in Igot way better response off idle and increased power all the way through the rpm range. I don't know if anyone else has done this but I think that those of you with modified engines would really benifit from this. I also increased my fuel pressure to compensate for more air.

I didn't know that they were so thin and that they had a hole in the center that might eliminate the hydralic effect, as far as hydralic lifters go I personaly think the direct contac we have now is better. There would be less heat build up and less chance to break something. The setup they have in F-1 engines is the best yet, it is a hydralic valve return enabling them to make unreal H.P. and rev to 20,000 and higher.

Someone has probably already told you this, but if you use two shims on one bucket you take a very real chance of spitting the shims out, causing a real mess. I found this out the hard way, on our race bike (kawa). We didn't have the right shim handy so we doubled up, spit the shims out through the front of the head. It not only broke the head it destroyed the cam too. Yamaha 25mm shims work and the come in an abundance of sizes. The Yahama dealer where I'am from will exchange shims, mabye the dealer near you will do the same. I was told the reason for this is oil gets between the shims causing a hydralic effect BOOM!!!

Thanks, I'll wait till I get enough saved up to buy good shocks. I want Kings but man are the expensive, probably settle for fox or something like them, takes a long time to save on SSI.

There are shocks on e-bay #280797654903 & #280797653165. I know it's a lot to ask with just a picture, but can anyone tell if the would work on a T2, 08. I emailed the guy but he could not tell me what model they came off of, only that he thinks it was a 1000cc buggy. I haven't seen double spring shocks on the troopers I've seen. If one of you knows I need answer pretty quick the go off in 7hrs.

i have somthing too add. i know have stumbling when i shift and reapply throttle, it does this only when i am easy on the throttle and i don't run up the rpm. Lenny, i tried hooking up a knew o-sensor, it totaly screwed up the way it ran. it had all kinds of problems, it ran lean, stumbled, would start but idle was erratic, sometimes while accelerating it would flaten out then go again. i tried too find someone who had an ecm reader, but no luck. living in Quartzsite can be a problem i am too far away from everything. i was thinking before that my ecm was bad but i realy don't want too buy one yet they are just too much money, just to find out that is not the problem.

without knowing what is wrong with the coils, resistance, open connection, or whatever it would be very difficult to know what happened or to tell what to fix. it might not be the coils them selves, it might be a ground or power loss to the coils.

one wire gm on gm goes to a hot wire that gets its power from ing line so that when started it feeds right back to battery. should work the same on trooper

older yamaha shims work fine i use them in mine and the come in a lot of sizes. we used too change cam timing in our race bikes by maching the bolt holes oblong. i don't know if that can be done on the 1100 but it would be worth looking into. we set up a degrea wheel on the crank and a dial indicater on the cam bucket. you will have to know the lobe centers on the cams to do this. intake and exhaust will probably be different. with some playing you can realy get the most from them.

what happened to the coils

i found transister type relays at auto parts store. good for 30amps replaced all the relays with them and everything is working good. no heat up that i can find anywhere, and they only cost $8.00 apiece.

as far as i know led's don,t generate near the heat that the original lights did. if you have a regular flash light and an led check out the difference. i think you will find your answer. the black paint won't hurt anything.

If you dought it would help then I'll bypass this fix. thanks anyhow

I just read this and wanted to know what is a P channel FET and where can I get them. Maybe this will correct my surge problem in my T2. I have already direct wired my fan because it melted the connector and wires, possibly there is a vibration causing the ECM relay to jump. I will try just about anything to fix the problem.

The tie rod ends on e-bay 270793660912 will not work the are for smaller joyners, threads and shaft size are different. I e-mailed them and asked about threads I don't remember the size but they were wrong. I got mine from JMC motors. Call them to make sure you get tie rod ends not ball joints. I had a small problem, when I ordered them on line the ware house sent ball joints, talk to Casey he will get you the right part. there is a problem with descriptions. They call both ball joints. I would also recommend changing the zerk fittings. They treated me great, corrected my problem no hassel.

I'am having problems with my T2. I may need an ECU, are you interested in parting it out and how much?

the only sensor disconnected is the IAC, but I'am beginning to think the ECU is my problem.

I don't think it matters if it is hooked up, it's been disconnected for 2 years. I would have to buy a new one and weld in a new mount and replace the missing wires.

thanks for all the replies i disconnected the ox sensors and removed the cat long ago. the idle air control has also been disconnected. i have had all the elec. con. apart and cleaned. the tps has been replaced along with the map, speed, and coolant sensors, also the fuel pump. i moved the fuel filter to just past the pump, and the fuel line from the tank is now 5/8 id line. the map sensor was the last to be replaced and the surge got worce go figure. the rpm's go up then back no blubber or any other condition happens when it surges. to me it seems like timing jumping because it is so quick. i disconected the idle sensor long ago because with it con. the idle would jump up to 3000to5000 rpm. i could not find that problem either. the fuel pressure does not change when it surges. do you have any more suggestions