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I posted this yesterday. Wonder where it went? For the best place to find a club or riders in AZ is a site called Riding Arizona, http://www.ridingarizona.com/ rocmoc n AZ

Riding Arizona, http://www.ridingarizona.com/ would be the best place to find a local AZ club. rocmoc n AZ

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Wow you got a lot more moisture than we did. Looks like you have FUN! rocmoc n AZ

There are advantages to the 2008, fuel tank in the front is a major one IMHO, & disadvantages. The same holds true with the later models. The BEST model is probably the new 2011, YES there are new Troopers. The saying I hold to is buy the best that you can afford. In my opinion even if you purchase a new 2011 there will be mods that we have completed here that you will want to still do. Joyner has watch this site and asked the dealers what mods we have done. They have incorporated some of them but not all. The BEST upgrades are Tires/Rims, Cage mods, Shocks & Power Steering IMHO! These will cost so plan for the future. A few of the biggest upgrades that HAD TO COMPLETED on the 2008 are The brace on the rear diff must be replaced. The upgrade is stronger rectangle tubing. The original, it will fail, is round tubing. Rear U-joint driveline replaced with a CV-joint driveline. The U-joint driveline will fail. Brake rotors upgraded to larger rotors, there was an upgrade kit with master cylinder, new caliper mounts & larger rotors. The original were too small. Fuel tank filler tube rotated upwards so you can get fuel in the thing. Sending unit will fail and the replacement was only guaranteed for 30 or 45 days as I remember, wasted money. I have not replaced or fixed mine yet. These are the main issues on the 2008 that come to mind at the moment. The intake Air Cleaner is junk on ALL of them, replace immediately with a K&N or similar or you will be rebuilding you engine soon. ALL of them require, IMHO, Lenny's diff upgrade kit. The later models were suppose to be better but we have not had any feeback. Hope this helps. rocmoc n AZ

That is true, Silverbullet's unit is electric and No Limit in Texas unit is hydraulic. rocmoc n AZ

Sorry Kinarfi I don't. I just have noticed this is a replacement I will be doing in the next year or two. rocmoc n AZ

Someone was asking about replacing some of the rubber seals. Here are some and an excellent site. http://pitstopusa.com/c-131804-rod-ends-rod-end-seals.html

Great news! When the cams became a development item the desire was for more low-end torque. This does not necessarily transfer into more speed. We need a slow hill/rock climbing test report. For us slow go pull hard types, find a hill you use to climb and see if there is any improvement in torque at a slow speed. Would help with my decision. Thanks, rocmoc n AZ

dpostma, you are welcome. Lots of good people here! rocmoc n AZ

Running lean can also burn pistons or burn a hole in the piston. Be careful. rocmoc n AZ

You will need to lift and support the frontend on jack stands. Then you can put a jack under the front suspension arm and lift to where you can move the shock around with it's own slack at the bolts. After you remove the nuts on the mounting bolts, you should be able to remove the bolts with you finger tips. If you can raise or lower the suspension arm until you have the slack. Use box wrenches so you don't round the bolt & nut edges. A bottle jack or floorjack and jack stands. You may have to remove the wheel to have enough room to work. Good luck! rocmoc n AZ

Wish I could go but we are laying tile! Bummer!! rocmoc n AZ

I keeping an http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa151/BMGsteve/eye%20gif/eyes.gif on you, you can be trouble!!!!!! rocmoc n AZ

Sure sounds like a dirty contact and/or bad ground. I hate electrical problems. Good luck and let us know how you are doing and what you find. I sure Kinarfi & Lenny will chime in, they are the real experts with this electrical stuff. rocmoc n AZ

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I refined the steering today. I centered the steering wheel perfectly, drilled and bolted the two piece steering shaft together (used stainless steel as I could not find a grade 8 in the size I wanted) & reset the neutral. Steering is pretty GREAT ! I did leave the hot glue out of the adjustment slots this time. I want to see if it makes a diff, my first take is the hot glue is overkill and increases adjustment time. The bolting together of the shaft removed a rattle & some slop, good improvement. rocmoc n AZ

Great & keep us updated. Nice to hear a little good news. rocmoc n AZ

The 2008 & 2009 are NOT interchangeable. Entirely different. 2008 is an electronic module with a pigtail at 20+ times the cost. 2009 is somewhat like a standard USA flasher with the 3 male connectors, simple & cheap. This is how you take something simple, like our gas gauges, that has worked forever and turn it into a more complicated piece of cr*p. rocmoc n AZ

Found another difference between my 2008 first 50 Trooper & the later ones. My Trooper takes a special signal flasher with a pigtail. Found one on ebay for almost $60 in England. After the first 50 or 2008 the fuse box is different that a more regular USA type flasher was used, at least that is what I found when I went out to rob the one off of my 2009 dismantlement Trooper. I am going to do something different and if anyone see a problem, please let me know. I am going to purchase a regular USA type flasher, cut the female connector off the wiring, add plug ends on the wire and plug the USA flasher directly into the system. Only problem I see is figuring out which wire of the three goes where. rocmoc n AZ

Sound cool, wish I was nearby! I will watch for the episode. Thanks for the heads up. rocmoc n AZ

What a GREAT MORNING. Went out to deal with the dragging brake master cylinder. First looked everything over and one of my mounting bolts for the power steering unit bracket was hitting the master cylinder rod. Added a couple of washers, have used grade 8 on everything, and brakes FIXED! No need to replace the master cylinder. BUT just loosening the bolts on the bracket knocked the power steering unit out of neutral again. It seems, mine anyway, if I make any adjustments to the steering anywhere I have to reset neutral. Not a big problem as it is easy but this thing is sensitive! rocmoc n AZ

Thanks Lenny. Adjustment made, a couple of test runs since and still good. I think I can soften the tires a little more. Sure becoming a delight to drive. The additional tow-in made the steering a little more stable. I just need to address the looseness out of the long steering shaft, a bolt thu the two pieces, and a new rack & pinion. Gotta fit the brakes first, my toe is getting SORE, LOL! rocmoc n AZ

Does anyone know if the FORKED ends on the factory Joyner Trooper Rack & Pinion will screw into the mating end of the tie-rods? If it does it makes a lot more replacement rack & pinions available as you can look at the rack & pinions with heim joints. rocmoc n AZ

Kinarfi, I adjusted mine today using the pdf file that rick sent me. Worked great & was pretty easy. The instructions were exact! If you need the file let me know & I will email to you. It has PICTURES. You pretty much have posted the process in the past. Only additional info was to lift the front wheels off the ground, loosen the bolts on the unit under the gold cover, turn on the power, adjust the sensor slowly until the wheels center, tighten down, turn the key off and on a couple of times to make sure the wheels stay in a neutral position, hot glue and then put the cover back on. rocmoc n AZ