rocmoc

Not familiar with the 650 but in general if the linkage is not adjusted correctly the tranny can get caught between gears or in the wrong gear. If you have taken the tranny apart and everything looks good, check the linkage adjustment. rocmoc n AZ

Yup, I would say 50% of the members here do. Good luck and let us know how it goes. rocmoc n AZ

OK, I did a temp install of the wiring so I could test drive. GREAT! I am completely satisfied with the unit. In my Trooper there is about a 80% improvement in everything but 4wd with front locker engaged. With front locker engaged about 40% improvement which is fine with me, at least it is more turn-able. I'm in front locker less than 5% of the time so this is a big improvement 95% of the time. On hard surfaces at speed the steering is not safe, YET (IMHO). I am going to put tow-in in the steering, at present I am nearly tow-out or even am tow-out. In a normal setup this would remove the twitchy feeling . Hopefully it will in the Trooper. What gives me a little concern is the slop in my rack & pinion maybe magnified by the unit. IN this case the replacement with a better rack & pinion will be called for. I know some of you like the present rack & pinion but I am not a fan. I planned my install around replacement of the rack so it will be easy when I find what I want. I lucked out and am center neutral. I didn't have to do anything to center the steering. But I wasn't watching the steering wheel itself and it is not centered. Will have to pull the steering wheel and rotate or pull small shaft with Steering Wheel and rotate. Either way this is small potatoes ! My current problem now is one of my brake calipers is hanging up so that moves to the top of work to do on the Trooper. Best $ spent behind Tires/Wheels, Cage mods & Shocks. rocmoc n AZ

Saw your pic, Fixable. If it were me, I would tack weld everything back into place before I removed the swing arm to ensure fit. Then remove, weld and brace. Really isn't that bad. Shock, the self-locking nuts are soft metal with locite. Make sure your socket fit perfect or they can/will round the nut. That is the biggest thing is getting the nuts lose without rounding the cheap soft nuts. rocmoc n AZ

It WORKED! The long shaft is two pieces. I cut a piece off of each. I used the female portion as is only shortened. I used the length I cut off the male and weld it to the nipple I talked about in an earlier post. Final result is a shaft similar to the original but shorter and a U-Joint on one end (female portion of the shaft) and the other end (male portion) shortened with teeth on the end to go into the NEW U-Joint connector provided with the Steering Unit. I weld the heck out of the joint between the nipple and male portion of the long steering shaft. My factory U-Joints on the steering shaft were very stiff. I hoped by removing one of the joints the steering would be easier and it WAS. I positioned the Steering Unit to min the angle on the U-Joints. I believe it is better than it was before and this also will help reduce the effort required to turn the wheels. NO welding took place on any of the new connectors. Question. If I turn on the juice to the Power Steering Unit without the shaft attached to the rack & pinion, will the Unit self-center ? Share would help make things easier to center the steering. rocmoc n AZ

Good welder will put the additional braces in place to make it structurally safe. Have him be careful with the bushing. This happen to a couple of others in the past and they just had it repaired. Standard metric wrench & socket set and a couple of flat irons or large flat screwdrivers. Toughest part is the shock, it can be a pain getting the bolts out. Remove the wheel hub as a single unit and leave it attached to the CV axle. Pop the axle out of the diff. Comes out like another CV-joint axle. Should be able to find a video on youtube. The hub removes with removal of two bolts. Same with the swing arm. Just be careful not to damage the bushing as you drive the bolts out. Not too bad of a job. Good luck, rocmoc n AZ

Where are you? Someone on here maybe nearby! rocmoc n AZ

If you can't weld, take it to a welding shop. Comes apart without much difficulty but if you don't have the tools or skills a regular mechanic should be able to. It maybe able to be weld without removal. Finding a new swing arm is pretty difficult and if you do it will cost more than having someone local do the repair. IMHO! Keep in touch and let us know how you come out. rocmoc n AZ

Today is the day! Finished bracket yesterday and almost mounted. I have to drop the pedal assy to put nuts on the end of mounting bolts. Would be all done except electrical but this morning I came up with another little mod I want to do to the long shaft. If it works I will share. In my head it seems like a good idea. This will require a little welding. A little behind because of a second project of making a kayak rack for the pickup. Had to pick up some metal for that project and may start that today as well. Also it turned cold the last two days, 40s at night and low 70s daytime, LOL ! I know that is still warm to most but down here it is cold and we are not use to it. Slow me up a bit but today is suppose to be 81. rocmoc n AZ

Should work! rocmoc n AZ

Just let me know and if I am able we will ride ! rocmoc n Az

http://objflicks.com/arizona.htm Have been to a lot of the locations. rocmoc n AZ

Is plumber the only one installing the cams in a stock machine? Lenny doesn't count, he's not normal, LOL ! rocmoc n AZ

Napa is made by Wix and cost more than Wix. rocmoc n AZ

Look at my gallery. My tires are nearly the same pattern and are Dunlop, 31" and balance. Bought them used on Craigslist and after 3 years show no new wear. Drive well on pavement. dirt, slick rock and are DOT. Don't know about mud, I don't do mud ! The guy had them on his Jeep and was going even bigger. rocmoc n AZ

I wanted to be able to do the same thing, return to stock if needed to. I will keep the pieces of the long shaft and can always weld them back together. Won't have to do anything to the Steering Wheel shaft as the long shaft would slide to the longer length. I take pcs of everything but am very bad about posting. Still haven't posted the pics from the Hanksville trip. rocmoc n AZ

Well I did it a little different but basically in the same location as Rick's. I noticed the u-joint end of the short Steering wheel shaft mounted under the dash had a LOT of extra length not being used. I cut the excess off and used it as a nipple between the u-joint connecter provided for the output for the steering unit and the existing u-joint connector on the end of the LONG shaft. I used the other provided connector between the input shaft of the unit and the short steering wheel shaft. I had to cut the two pieces (one slides into the other) of the LONG shaft to get the correct length between the rack & pinion and the power steering unit. Was really easy requiring no welding. Three cuts and bolt it together. Little grinding on the ends so the bolts slide in the connector on the ends and a little grinding so the connector would slide on the nipple and short shaft. Just have to make the bracket (using aluminum diamond plate that was on-hand) and plug in tomorrow. Don't want to over work myself. rocmoc n AZ

Would not be very competitive. Trooper is great for what we use it for but it isn't a racer, well maybe Lenny's. rocmoc n AZ

Yes you can get them but I had to wait almost a week for them to be shipped to the local seal supplier and the shipping cost me more than the seals did. Here is a link that will help with getting the seals and the install, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2258-technical-articles-in-this-forum/ rocmoc n AZ

Thanks Rick, that is the shaft I am talking about. I know one other person process and I am looking at what will work best for me. Thanks again, rocmoc n AZ

Rick, how did you connect to the Long shaft. My connectors supplied with the unit is too small. Did you weld directly to the shaft? rocmoc n AZ

Admin has made the change to the Search Function to allow 2 letters like O2. Let us know if you have any problems or if you like it better. Always trying to make the site more friendly. Thanks Admin ! rocmoc n AZ

Thanks guys ! rocmoc n AZ

The seals are just added protection. The bearing has a seal. If you can't get the seal, just be careful & reuse. BMW does not use the additional seal but of course the quality of the bearings BMW uses maybe a bit higher. rocmoc n AZ

I would LOVE to have it. I loved the CanAm cars. Ah the Chaparral was one of my favorites. The SpecRacer Ford, http://www.scca-enterprises.com/spec_ford.html , was my roadracer 3 years ago & was a mini-version for the CanAM racers. It was a pleasure to drive but you had to get use to never taking your foot off the gas. If you did in a corner it would whip around on you and you were in the wall. If you had to reduce speed, you had to trail brake. Thanks for the morning smile you gave me when I went to you posted site. rocmoc n AZ ps, Of course you could be my co-driver TO the track, LOL !