rocmoc

Yeah, you would be working on your Trooper like me, LOL! I too hate working in the cold. I fired up my shop heater for the first time in 8 years yesterday to do the work I did. Hated It! rocmoc n AZ

If you electric weld on anything with electronics you take a chance of shorting out components. This is especially true if the battery is left connected. Can also happen to the dead vehicle when jump starting a battery. Can also happen if there is a HARD dead short to the system. Hate chasing electrical & electronic problems. rocmoc n AZ

Hot Tamale! rocmoc n AZ

She hasn't got to the point of recovery yet! I am only back to bouncing between 80 to 90 percent. I just wanted to get the Trooper finished and see the results. And it is Freakin cold here. It was only 37 degree at 11am. rocmoc n AZ

DONE! The process IS exactly as the BMW youtube videos. All of the components look nearly exactly the same except in size. Key Learning of Bad News & disappointment: The bearing HAS TO press out and press into place. If you can remove the bearing with your fingers or will little effort, the hub / housing is SHOT or needs rebuilt. After putting everything back, using loctite and torquing the nut correctly; the left wheel still had slop / movement. Definitely, IMHO, the bearings are of much better quality than the hub / housing. So now I have to keep a look out for a replacement hub / housing or see if an aftermarket source can be found. Replacing with the same IS NOT the real fix. That will only a band aide as it is just the same thing that has already failed. Right side, bearing had to be pressed out and pressed in, came out perfectly! If you are replacing your bearings and the wheel as slop before you even start, be concerned. If you can remove the bearing with little or no effort, you are wasting you time & money! rocmoc n AZ

Good morning stevozz, Doing better after the bug I had last week. I am using Castrol Syntec purchased at Pep Boys. I was using Royal Purple but too expensive. Used it once before the Castrol and I can't tell any diff. rocmoc n AZ

Some parts are. AND with a little machining, Yes! rocmoc n AZ

I AGREE! Probably a database they picked up and don't have the $ to update or correct. Should at least place a banner or something saying not all parts maybe purchased individually, only as a complete assembly. Something like that! rocmoc n AZ

The parts aren't available because THEY don't stock them. Factory would be more than happy to supply but JMC has a larger $ outlay to stock all those individual parts. Also the factory probably has packages or min # to ship, they would have to buy 10 rings & pinion as appose to one. That is what the stock looked like at the auction when the sold Joyner USA. Way too many of a single item. Can't stay in business that way. We unfortunately are the loser. Snowman, don't sell my rear Renegade pinion I have been waiting for, LOL! rocmoc n AZ

As it turns out the process is EXACTLY like the youtube videos I posted with the exception you take the hub / housing off. You do the same removal & install of the bearing on the bench or floor. BUT the exactly same process, EVERYTHING! We do have the addition of the inner & outer seals but that is a very minor item to deal with. Very easy to remove & install. rocmoc n AZ edit, kinarfi, 10-4

I use Mobil 1 syn oil in my Trooper. I have ran it in my racecars also with great results. rocmoc n AZ

I cleaned parts today. The seal info above / earlier is for the outer seal. There is an inner seal and the numbers to use for replacement are TC 42X62X8. I did not remove mine as they do not inhibit the replacement of the bearings and were in good shape. After cleaning I could see the number for future use. Since I removed the entire hub / housing, I took the opportunity to clean the two bushings contacts. Both were in good shape and will be greased when reinstalled. rocmoc n AZ

If you are having plug failure I would be looking other places for the cause. Today's plug should last 50,000 miles and I KNOW no one has put that kind of mileage on their Trooper. Can be anything from bad rings & seals to driving & operation style. There is a reason! rocmoc n AZ

Thanks for comforting post Snowman! rocmoc n AZ

Will give them a call today! rocmoc n AZ

Rick, If Lenny doesn't contact you let me know, I have his tel #s. rocmoc n AZ

WOW! How about joining us for the June Adventure in So. Utah & bring both or just the RZR4. Would love to watch yours or trade toys for an hour. My T2 has quite a few mods/upgrades. Glad you shared your experience. rocmoc n AZ

Seals arrived. Timken 45X65X8 / 100127598 / 1.772 X 2.559 X 0.315 Motion Industries charged me $11 for 3 seal and $12 shipping plus tax for a total of $25.05 for 3 seals. Do a search on google and see if you can get a better price. Seems high to me! Still healing! rocmoc n AZ

Yup what the man says! rocmoc n AZ

Lenny, sent you a PM back. rocmoc n AZ

Good price on the driveline. I spent $30 just for the replacement boot and the install is a pain. rocmoc n AZ

Thank you Glade. rocmoc n AZ

I am interested in a starter & renegade diff ring & pinions (front & rear). I am PMing you. rocmoc n AZ

Think resale! That is where we with Joyners have been bitten with all the JMC cr*p. If you can't get it used at a good price, save your money, IMHO! Takes the excitement out quickly when you see your investment's valve cut in half over night. LOL, am I talking about toys or a home. Guess it is the same thing. rocmoc n AZ

Looks like something we maybe interested in attending in 2012. http://easternsierraatvjamboree.com/welcome.htm