rocmoc

Myron, http://for-sale.yakaz.com/joyner-trooper-for-sale rocmoc n AZ

Thanks. Is there or do we have the specs on the current stock Chery cam in the 1100cc engine? I am sure they are going to ask for that info. One or both of us can contact them after the first of the year. My biggest concern will be shims, Lenny said he thought that Honda shims would work, after the cam is ground. May even have to take a Trooper to them to look at to be able to do the complete mock up. Flatbed, where are you? I know you know this stuff much better than I do! rocmoc n AZ

Yes it was me. Did you talk to them? I want a torque grind. I will give up a lot of top end for more pulling power. rocmoc n AZ

Acceleration & Top Speed is pretty close between the T4 & T2. Accel & Top Sd is dependent on the tires & rims you run or upgrade to. 1st is unusable with the stock rims & tires, even geared lower than an old 40s/50s pickup with a granny gear. I upgraded to 15" rims & 31X10.50 tires. I still take off in 2nd gear but first is now usable for crawling conditions. Someone correct me if they believe differently. With my 15" setup, accel is like a 60s/70s VW bug. My top speed is around 70+ mph. Stock setup accel is slow because the gears are so low and gear ratios are too close together. You shift and there is little difference. You can jump a gear and be fine. Top speed stock is around 60 mph. rocmoc n AZ

Free or nearly free camping locations. Note to the right of the page the other States with free camping locations. http://freecampsites.net/attribute/states/ut/ rocmoc n AZ

Something else I want to say is I view my Trooper more in a class with the Suzuki Samurai. We are lucky, I think they planned it that way, to fit the Trooper just in the weight class for a UTV for safety & emission stds. But we are much heavier, wider & longer than the mainstream UTVs. If they had planned/provided more horsepower & stronger drive components, they would have hit a home run even with the increased weight & size. The way it is they hit a stand up double. Better quality and it could have been a triple but NEVER a home run without the power & stronger drive components. This increase size & weight does make the Trooper more difficult to transport, so plan ahead. My Trooper is street legal in AZ and I take advantage of it. I am licensed & insured for street & dirt. In AZ you also required to have a off-road sticker besides the license but it is recognized by other states, CA, UT & NM (just a few). In AZ, any ATV, UTV, Sandrail or Dune Buggy can be licensed and driven on the street. Sure makes it nice for going to the local trails. AND for building Kit Cars. Maybe someday a Cobra is in my future. Last note. I don't know where you live but it seems that the more dampest/moisture where one lives plays havoc with the electrical. I have had no problems but it is bone dry where I live and I am very very careful when I wash it. I don't play in the mud or river either. Also the rubber boots, ALL of them electrical & suspension, are not holding up. Soon I will have to go thu and change ALL of them or start paying the price of neglect. Guess I better add this to my 2011 things I am going to do. Good luck, rocmoc n AZ

IMHO, parts are not going to be a problem. There are enough GREAT Dealers/Vendors on our site keeping us in parts. PLUS there are a few us that are reaching out and finding mainstream USA parts for solutions of problems/failures. I believe in the future one of us will even step up and to a engine/trans retrofit to a more mainstream manufacturer. Here is a link to a forum discussion about the RZR vs the Commando. http://www.ridingarizona.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31209 Bottom line is, if you are mechanical inclined, You can't go wrong with any of them if you buy right. rocmoc n AZ

Just pull the cover off the drivline to the front / the shifter cover. The bearing is between the seats. I had to remove the grease fitting and add a 90 degree elbow. No way could I get a grease gun to the fitting. rocmoc n AZ

First , WELCOME! IMHO For the person with a unlimited budget, Number 1, Can Am Commander 1000 # 2 RZR #3 Trooper For the person with budget, Number 1, RZR #2 Trooper #3 Ca Am For the person with a hole in his budget, (You will end up spending the same as the person with the budget after upgrades to the Trooper) Number 1, RZR #2 Trooper #3 Ca Am rocmoc n AZ

I think the Get Well Cards could be sent to a few of US, LOL! That is why when I have been rebuilding the house the complete thing has all handicap features. Don't know when I am going to hurt myself again. I just know it is coming,LOL! rocmoc n AZ

I have often thought we should use more motorcycle & snowmobile engines in toys. My racecar has a 1100cc Yamaha engine with a weight of around 950 lbs. Will rip you head off on acceleration and has a top speed of 150 mph when setup for roadracing. My dirtbike is 450cc with around 60 hp with a weight of 225 lbs. Again, deadly quick! Toys are great if you like SPEED. Don't stick your gloves too well. There are times when you want to let go, LOL! I was hill climbing with my snowmobile when the world came apart. Spun around and headed back down hill out of control. I baled off and the snowmobile looked like a pinball as it hit trees on its way to the bottom. When I got to it everything was fine, bumpers at the time took all the hits. Lived in Sandpoint, ID then. See Kinarfi, I know what that white stuff is, LOL! rocmoc n AZ

Lenny, I am not in a hurry as you know about most things. Already have too many irons in the fire. I have spent a month repairing mobile stuff and NOW have to get back on the house mods. Besides, the rear bearings & diff kits are in line before the power steering. rocmoc n AZ

I like the New Ride a LOT! Been a long time since I had one. rocmoc n AZ

Plumber, what kind of tube bender are you getting? I have been looking myself and was considering either getting a Harbor Freight and making upgrades/mods http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bending_forging_extrusion/3356-home_built_tubing_bender-2.html or http://www.pro-tools.com/ I just bought a Millermatic 180 Mig and love it. I had a buddy that moved away last year and I used his until he left. Loved it so I finally had to step up and buy one myself. I found my local Airgas shop beat their online price and everything else on the net except two on Ebay located on the East Coast. If I had a problem support would be better if I bought locally and I like to keep my bucks in the community when possible. Mine was $1022 out the door with the large tank, one size down from the biggest tank, an extra large spool of wire. I bought the Mig cart at Harbor Freight on sale for $43 but had to make a couple of mods. It now works perfectly. Good luck, rocmoc n AZ

I will when I do my doors. I think snowman did when he put doors on the rig he brought to Farmington. He has pics in his old post. rocmoc n AZ

1) Upgrade the front and rear diffs with a $100.00 each kit(I have seen on ebay) that supplies , shims, circlip and some new bolts as well as instrcutions on how to properly align the diff gears. (Lenny on this site is our source for this upgrade) 3) Weld some type of support bracket to the Rear End? ( Only necessary on the very early model, mine was one of the first 50. Later they upgraded the brace fixing the problem. If your brace is a piece of rectangle steel, you have the upgrade. Mine was round tubing like the rest of the trooper) 7) Some kind of issue with the cables , crimps pulling off? what can be done about this? ( Again on the early Troopers, the cables on the shifters pulled apart on some of the Troopers. Mine never did but I have another set of cables just in case) 8) Upgrade 2wd/4wd switch from electric solenoid type to mechanical (More of any issue if you get your Trooper wet a lot. I don't in AZ so have not had any problems. But just in case I have an extra solenoid) The Rest is pretty much routine maintenance you would have to do on any UTV/ATV. Hope this helps, rocmoc n AZ

An added note. If you notice the angle of the coil-over shock relative to the Fox shock, the coil-over has more lay down angle in it's new location. This was to try and pick up some of the lost travel when I moved the coil-over shock rearward. I lost a small amount of travel but not enough to notice. rocmoc n AZ

Has anyone changed out the Joyner steering rack for a BETTER non-power steering rack & pinon? With only a few hundred pounds on the front, I can't imagine that a non-power unit of high quality won't work even with big tires. Exception would be possibly be when the locker engaged. Has anyone upgraded to a power steering unit with a different rack and tried to turn it with power turned off? Just wondering if anyone has tried. Thinking outside the box again! Some nice non-power rack and affordable, http://www.mooreparts.com/store/category/8/135/Rack-%26-Pinions/ rocmoc n AZ

Pics

I have done the numbers on changing out the engine and even getting a used deal the cost is well over a $1,000. Much cheaper to replace the clutch. The Stock clutch is only around $100, can get the exact cost if anyone gets up tight, which is much less than $1000. The work required to change mounts, wiring, drivelines & etc is huge. I will consider this change when the motor or trans fails but not for a clutch. Recommend you step up for a new STOCK clutch and install. Sorry but I am not a believer in the expensive after-market clutches. Better yet, WHY did the clutch fail? I have found the stock clutch to be very durable. First fix the problems of failure, maybe the driver & not trying to tick ya off, & keep it simple & cheap. Major problem will be how to have direct/locked drive out of the trans for both the rear & front drive. The present trans has a solid shaft equally transfering energy to the rear & front. A stock auto trans will be limited slip at best which means your locker diffs will not always work. Good luck, rocmoc n AZ

Kinarfi, why did you move the lights overhead towards the rear? I removed mine completely as I don't do dark! Headlights are enough so we ACCIDENTALLY not return before dark. rocmoc n AZ

With everything you two have said I am now going to jump in. IMHO, The Rhino is still a great machine. When we were at the UTV Rally in Moab, the Rhino climbed on the slick rock as well as any other brand there. Dollar for dollar on the used market, it is a very good deal! Like Kinarfi said in another topic, the best UTV is the one you own and especially if it it paid for, LOL! AND I agree! Enjoyed the great info in your post. rocmoc n AZ

I did the following 2010, Rebuilt & redesigned the cage Added a passenger handhold Had to replace the rear diff mounts Rubber mounted the rear diff Got rid of the safari deck in the rear Moved the rear coil-over shock mounts Add additional Fox shocks in the rear in old mounts In 2011 I will Add doors Add power steering Replace rear wheel bearings Replace fuel tank with a Fuel Cell Install Lenny's diff kit in front & rear diffs rocmoc n AZ

Great results. I took off the shock and it is softer. So I let off all gas from the stock Joyner shocks and that help a surprising amount. There was movement when I jumped up & down on the rear where before it didn't hardly move at all. There is sway as I go around a corner now. SO after the LH to Yuma trip I will remove the shock and take them with me back to Off-Road Warehouse. We will be within a few mile of their location in Jan. I will drop them on Wed and Pick them up on Fri. They are currently 50/70 and I will at least be going 40/60. Between now and then I will back off some of the spring pre-load which will help a little. Good thing is if I did nothing else, I am happy with the results. Everything from now on is icing! Took it for a ride and speed is such that it would be easy to break something else. I don't have to slow for any of the dips, jumps or things I did before. This lends itself to pushing the equipment beyond the normal designed use and WILL result in failure. That was just a test and will not be driven that hard 98% of the time. I will upload the pics soon. Power Steering & Doors next. rocmoc n AZ

Second thought, I am going to disconnect one of the new shocks and compare the two side. After your post Lenny, I went out and pushed/jumped on the corners of the suspension. Rear is STIFF and I am not sure if it is damping or springs. So I will disconnect on shock tomorrow. Thanks for the thought that was generated by your post. The front is OK. rocmoc n AZ