Tinman

Yeah Charlie, I took mine apart about 6 months ago, siliconed it so it's waterproof, so I'm pretty sure there's no water in there. Would have been nice to be able to check trouble codes. Maybe joyner will one day implement that... On an aside, MASTER SWITCH: Nearly shorted everything out while monkeying with a temporary rad fan motor. On the negative side of the master switch, I connected all the wires I had removed, but one of the large connectors touched the mount where the switch bolts to and shorted out big time. No permanent damage though. The mount was designed wrong and any movement in the cables can cause a short, just so you guys know. It will short anything down the path of least resistance, which may or may not be an electrical wire.

That's what I fear the most. I hope it's not the ECU. The problem hasn't come back, but it hasn't rained either...

Ahhh. Wouldn't the pressure go down on the gauge if there was less fuel? In any case, I've been battleing with a bigger problem - my new 16 inch cyclone rad fan called it quits yesterday. Sheesh. Trying to find a replacement rad fan motor, or just a decent rad fan assembly I can count on...

Oh, and my sending unit is at the regulator.

That's a good idea Rocmoc. I thought of maybe water in the gas, but dirt plugging the inlet might be it too. I don't know what you mean about testing the pump under pressure - at full throttle, the gas pressure gauge reads a constant 45 PSI.

]Thanks Rocmoc, Gauge reads a constant 45 psi, new bosch fuel pump, new fuel filter. I'll try wires first, as that seems the most likely. OEM or aftermarket wires?

Thanks guys. Did anyone buy aftermarket cables for their T2, or go OEM? I only have 7000 miles on mine, so I'm surprised it can be the cables. A friend of mine has a compression gauge. I'll ask him to check it. But the problem does go away intermittently, then comes back, so I'm guessing its not that.

Any of you heard of this? I've had rough throttle issues for a while, so I worked it out to a plugged carbon canister. Stomping on the gas, especially after filling up usually resulted in a coughing and spitting engine. Unhooked to vent hose from the canister coming up from the gas tank and problem is solved. After two days of no problems, I have this and it has me stumped big time. Driving home at 100 kms/hour, I filled up. It starts raining. When I hit 3500 rpm in 5th gear, the engine misfires repeatedly. If I let go of the throttle to below 3500, its fine. Does this consistently. It acts as if there's a rev limiter. So I played around. dropped it into fourth, and I could do 4500 rpm, but then misfires. It seemed that if I hit 60 kms/h, it misfires. I should ad that before this issue started I heard a loud click. Any idea? I can't even begin to wrap my head around this one...

I just went home-made mechanical. Easier, and pretty failsafe.

Just curious here: Are swingarms twisted on machines with bigger tires, or are they twisted with stock tires too? Careful on answering - because if it's only on bigger tires, then the arms should be boxed before throwing bigger tires on. Otherwise, nothing much to worry about if you're running stock.

This is good to know I've added a back seat, meaning another 300# to the vehicle. Although I don't do anything too crazy, the terrain is very rough here. I'll be boxing mine in as soon as possible, and adding longer bolts too

Once I get some more spare cash, I'll be going the Lenny way, adding a mount with three holes, moving the diff lower, adding a 1/2 plate on the bottom (cus I beat the shit out of my 3/16), and. well. that's it. for now. As for being disheartened Charlie, I've played on some other machines back home, and I prefer the joyner.

From my machine shop days, bearings are usually .001 / inch interference. Which means a 6 inch dia bearing would be press fit .006, which sounds like a lot but worked fine. We would usually heat up the bearing in oil, then drop it on, or if on the inside, freeze them in nitro. Without either, lube well with decent oil and carefully knock them on, hitting the part in contact with the hub.

Ahhhhhh. Ok Lenny. Thanks so much. I'll change it tomorrow and see what happens.

All connected to the second 02 sensor. Funny thing happens - the first minute or two I'm reading lean, as in 16/1 pretty much through the whole rev band, then my readings go all screwy - from 11/1 to 20/1. Sometimes I get confirmation by how the T2 runs, but sometimes not. Any ideas?

and 4000 miles. Fusebox went at 2000. Did diff upgrades from Lenny (THANKS LENNY!) fixed other bits and pieces, nothing major. Abuse the hell out of it though.

Friggin cool Dedub. I hate you. In a nice way.

Thanks Charlie. I just went with a huge 750 amp one, which powers all my equipment when I do my volunteer stuff. Also, there's lots of reserve if I need to winch the machine with the engine off (which would be if it flips)

You may find expended shells too. That wouldn't be so nice. Here in Panama, a metal detector would be useless, as everyone throws out their trash everywhere.

The A/F guage does say to connect to narrow band, but I can understand what you mean. If it doesn't work well, I can always pull the last O2 sensor and install a wide band one. There is a thread on replacement O2 sensors somewhere here...

So does that mean that it doesn't matter which of the two I connect to?

Does anyone know which of the 3 wires on the oxygen sensor (2 grey, 1 black) carries the signal I can tap into for an Air/fuel ratio gauge? I have an annoying hesitation I'm trying to figure out, and just got the gauge in. Also, the gauge taps into a narrow band sensor, which I think the joyner has. Am I correct, or do I have to get another O2 sensor? Thanks to any who reply!!!

All the winches I saw have the wires connected by screws. So, changing relays and controller is easy. Some controllers on ebay come all in one - relay and controller, like mine.

There is a little schrader valve near the tank to inflate the shocks. If you have a place near you with nitro, fill with that.

Have a champion winch or an aftermarket winch that has the generic control I have? (See pic on link below) The rivets holding a plastic cap on a backing plate failed, causing a short circuit. It can also fail leaving you stranded when you need the winch the most. If you have a similar control, I would advise at the very minimum tightening the rivets and properly peening them over, and if you could, put in better rivets. http://www.pauldaytonscifi.com/spotlight.html