Tinman

Some of you guys have switch to the new manual system of locking the 4x4. Does anyone have a PDF parts manual for the T2 vehicle year that came with the the manual lever? I need to order everything by part #s because of my location... Please send it to [email protected] Also, for the ones who did the changes, are there any photos you can share?

That's reassuring. Because of the horrendous terrain where I take it, I'm always a bit worried wife will have to walk back with me. No big thing - lots of friendly people along the way, but still. However, with one major issue (snapped u-joint) and this one, I was able to get out both times. I'll be doing some adjustments come Monday eve. Tomorrow and Monday will be taken up volunteering on the same trails.

It wasn't the bolt, its the nylock nut. But the contact is so little at max turn I'm not worried.

I found little meat left on mine, so I opted for 12mm for two reasons, cus everything is metric on this vehicle, and cus I save a whopping .015/side leaving more meat However, the nuts on the back do SLIGHTLY interfere at full turn, but it's so little I'm not worried about it.

Chuleta, where do you guys think up this stuff??? Checking now. Thanks Kinarfi

You're about 3 hours too late. Already opened, cleaned, and resealed. Fortunately, I found no sings of water penetration, and everything was properly tidy

Ouch. I could never understand the high costs of these simple ECMs. The Joyner has a single layer board. Then again, a car ECM would cost $2500 or more.

How mucxh did the ECM cost you, if you don't mind my asking?

Crank position sensor. If your CPS is bad or CPS wires are shorting, you'll have the ECM confused. FYI, I'm speaking from motorcycle experience. I've just gotten my Joyner, so I have next to nothing on it. However, it does have electronic ignition, so it may suffer many or most of the same issues I've faced before.

If the fuel pressure drops, the fix is pretty simple. Hope the fuel pressure drops. Check all your plugs too. One more question. Does it sound like a cyl or two is getting cut out, or is it some weird knocKing sound, or is it just like you throttled down? If it's a comp or CPS sensor issue, your plugs will likely tell you.

Yo Rocmoc! Glad to know you're having fun! You should move down here - Central America is full of wonderful people who are experts in selling vehicles that need to be constantly tinkered with. I heard a few good ones this past week: Transmission oil needs to be changed every 80,000 kms on an automatic, but never on a stick. Oil changes should be done regularly, but there's nothing like the original filter. As in, the original oil filter doesn't need to be changed. If your diff is making noise, put wood shavings in it to quiet it down. 10W30 is excellent tranny oil. When changing the oil, the level should be far above the oil indicator, otherwise you'll ruin the engine. Gasket goo makes a wonderful cyl. head gasket material. So does pretty much any other silicone. And the best - the guy who wanted to sell me his truck with the rebuilt engine - it was in near perfect shape, according to him. When I looked, it had a 4 litre jug with gas in the engine bay feeding the carb of his once fuel injected engine, and the 'newly rebuilt' engine had NO air filter. Worse, He had just come back from some offroading thing, as proof the now 2X4 (but once 4X4) truck works excellent.

I made my own. I live in rain hell. It usually rains every day where I am, but you never know. So I have two windshields - one emergency one and a solid one for those olympic-sized-swimming-pools-dropped-on-your-head events. My quicky is made of Mica that is usually rolled up and tucked inside my roof. The second one is Lexan, which rides inside aluminum tracks upper and lower, for those long wet rides to keep wife happy. The quicky one works surprisingly well, but leaves me seasick on long rides. It is the perfect solution for surprise showers. I'll take pics tomorrow.

I HATE problems like this. This sounds like a computer or fuel injection problem. Check: Does this happen only when hot? Does it sound like its being bogged down from excessive fuel, or is it being starved? What's the fuel pressure read when this is happening? You might want to relocate your fuel pressure guage. (I've thought of it myself, cus it would look so darn cool to have it where I can ACTUALLY SEE IT) Check your plugs immediately after the event. What is their color? I'd check both oxygen sensors. Perhaps one is sending the wrong signal intermitantly...are the O.S. cables ok? Check your comp. Jeese, after reading a thread on water entering the ECM, you never know. I'll probably dream up a few more useless questions tonight.

Lenny, Near as I can measure, the rad is 39mm measured to the outside of the spherical surface. It sounds odd, as I suspect it's actually 40 but 40 didn't work. I would suggest using the same shim stock you use for your diff shim kits for the material - otherwise it'll end up the same scored mess. I'm sure you'll need to play around to get surfaces to match. MTL is .025 thk. I'm curious - what method do you use to get the correct rad on a manual lathe?

It's the bolt that has all the fun. The nut is just there for the ride.

Hey Lenny, Thanks for the heads-up on the unsealed computer! Another thing to do for thursday...

What I was hoping you would do is make a concave/vez mold to press some new spherical washers for us. I'd do it, but I'm faaarrrrr from my old tool and die shop. If you want to know how to make your manual lathe do a perfect convex or concave surface, PM me. I'm pretty sure I got the spherical radius right, just in case I had a chance to do it myself...

Thanks for the link Kinarfi! It always helps. I had looked at the MUST DO list and didn't find this, so I had supposed I was the first I'm going now to buy a 12 mm tap and 4 bolts. Figured that with the little meat left, a 12 mm is a good compromise instead of the 1/2. HAD NO IDEA THERE WAS AN ISSUE WITH THE UPPER SUSPENSION ARM! Figured that with the shock pushing it down, it would be hard to have the ball joint shaft slide out...

On one of our back country rides, my lower control arm dropped - the ball joint near the outer CV-joint dropped out of its hole. AT SPEED; THIS COULD RESULT IN A SERIOUS ACCIDENT OR DEATH. Worse yet, the issue wasn't one of breakage - it's a design defect. As you can see from the pics, the bolt used to retain the lower ball joint has a shaft (non-threaded portion) that's too short. The threads actually hold the ball joint in place, not the bolt shaft. This, and the fact the bolt material sucks, means that it's easily stripped, as you can see from the marks. My temp fix - buy a grade 8 bolt with a longer shaft (see pic2). But I'm still not comfortable. I'm thinking of shallow tapping a 8 mm hole on top, just so I can add a retaining bolt. Have you guys experienced this, and if so what is your fix?

It's tight, but I can still see it flex. Were the ones oyu bought on ebay made for the Joyner? If not, how did you size them? Or did you have to modify purchased units?

That my upper steering u-joint is going to break. I know that the joint slipping out of the steering shaft is a major issue, but the thread didn't mention fixes. What have you guys done to fix this? I put a 3/32 split pin through the very bottom half of it and it works fine (400 miles +), but the joint flexes as you spin the steering wheel (both before and after the split pin was installed). Also, some have mentioned a 4x4 manual conversion from the original electric. Anyone have any pics? I use my T2 for long distances and would hate to have things break down far from life...

Lenny, Are you running the stock Diffs with your shim kit, or did you modify or change the differentials? I was just curious as to how strong the diffs are. If they survive your bashings, they can survive anything...

MORK AND MINDY! Haven't heard of that in AGES!!! Thanks Rocmoc! Brings smiles back to gladden my green vulcan heart!

Well, that rules me out.

Hotdiggedydog. Your pics are awesome, and your T2 is even better. I'm drooling...