Merchant Mariner

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I think my order may have gotten lost in the shuffle. I had made a phone order on April 6, followed up with two emails since then, and two phone calls trying to reach someone. My credit card was charged over a month ago, and I haven't received my parts. Can someone contact me? When I made my order I was told 2 weeks to receive parts........

thought I would ask here, since I am still new to the site..... Where should ride threads be posted? took a look around and didn't see a thread for posting rides. I'm hoping to do a ride this saturday (april 28th) and want to find anyone in the area (tucson) who would be interested

you still got the part number of the RS5000's you used?

In your case, you not only doubled the surface area for the hydraulic pressure to work on, but you also doubled the frictional surface area with twice as much brake pad PER WHEEL!!!! That had to be an amazing difference!

Kinarfi - I found sets for $37ea. These were the FA473V ("V" denotes semi sintered pad, P/N without "V" is your straight organic) Keep us posted on this!!!!! I think Lenny may have touched on this in one of his posts, and I am speculating at this point, but I don't think small multi-pot calipers is our best solution. Please someone correct me if I'm off base. From what I have been able to surmise so far we have automotive master cylinders pushing ATV calipers. Automotive masters do not need to generate as much pressure because they are designed to work on larger bore caliper pistons. The larger the bore, the larger surface area for the hydraulic pressure to work on. Force = (pressure)(area). So unless we find multi-pot calipers with a total piston surface area larger than the single unit we have now, I fear we won't gain the stopping power we need/want. Plus, I don't know what is involved with installing that pressure multiplier, but I'm hoping it will be easier than finding and modding all four caliper mounts. Another idea I would propose would be to upgrade our master cylinders to high performance motorcycle units. Thats just an idea I have right now, haven't done my research yet to figure out if those are running at a higher pressure, but I am using the theory that they are designed to work on calipers with smaller pistons. Although, the force required to stop a motorcycle is presumably less than that required to stop these Troopers. More research is needed..........

TROOPER T2 BRAKE PADS: Previously I found a post on another website that called for EBC brake pads, P/N FA482TT. I was unable to find these through an american vender, so I set out to find another set that we could use. More searching may turn up something different and more affordable, but for now this is what I have found. MFG: EBC P/N: FA473 Application: 08-09 Can-Am Spyder RS 990 REAR, 10-12 Spyder RS-S REAR IMPORTANT NOTES: Given that the spyder is a single rear wheel application, there is only one set of pads. Must purchase one set per wheel to be replaced. Also holes that fit over guide pins must be drilled out slightly larger. I went to this trouble and expense hoping that the better quality pads would provide better stopping power. Sadly the brake system on the T2 still proves to be anemic in its ability to stop the buggy. If improved stopping power is what you are looking for, a solution is still not readily available. I know others (ie Lenny) have doubled up on calipers, etc to remedy this issue, but I was hoping better pads would be a happy compromise. These pads do provide better feel at the pedal, excessive pedal pressure is still need to bring it to a stop.

some additional info I cam across. Some of it is redundant to what we already have here, but thought I would put it out here. Passenger diff seal, Car Quest part # 3655 size 51.9mm O.D. x 35mm I.D. Fits 1100, 800 EFI Front wheel bearings - NSK 6205Z-2ZR-C3 and 6206Z-2ZR-C3, SKF or FAG 6205-2RSR and 6206-2RSR Conversion to tapered roller bearings is possible with some hub modification - 30205A and 30206A Rear wheel bearings - Peer FWD 305532, 6006 2RS and 3006 2RS Conversion to tapered roller bearings is possible with some modification - 32006X Front a-arm ball joint - GE25ES 2RS Oil filter - Mann W67/81, China SPC932, Bosch O 004 Brake pads - EBC FA482TT - tried to find these, but unable to get through an american vendor. ordered sets of FA473V to try out. Will follow up with full post when I get them in and try them out Tachometer w/ temperature gauge - Koso GP-Style (55mm, 0-9,000 RPM) Arctic Cat quads use the same hubs as the 650 Joyner so the brakes will also work from Arctic Cat. Others have found Wilwood brakes that fit the 650. These parts do not fit the 800cc and larger buggies The Geo Metro and Suzuki Swift 3-cylinder 1-liter engine will fit the 800cc chassis with minimum modification inner cv boots off a 1998 Geo Metro. They only cost $10 each instead of the $20 to $30 at a off road shop and available at any auto store! Fits 1100, other models not too sure source: http://www.joynerfor...-Need-your-help! Want to add, I have not verified this. Thats up to anyone who may need a listed item. But if anyone does verify via use of any of the listed items, please let us know!

I'm also curious about this. Will it be flipped our standard?

The Troopers almost added another rider to the list of the stranded as I nearly fell victim to the less-than-reliable fuel pump. While out with the T2 yesterday I heard a funny whining, stuttering, noise. I was having so much fun, I was tempted not to check it (lets be honest....."hear no evil, see no evil" worked as a kid, right?) But grown up mentality got the better of me and I stopped to check it out, only to find my fuel hose jumping around as the output of the fuel pump surged. Thankfully I made it back to the trailer, but not without it dying a couple times on me while I was trying to climb my way out. I know there is a pinned thread for parts, maybe one of the admin would want to add the following info to that list. Since I was hoping to ride this weekend I really did not like the idea of having to wait for a fuel pump to be shipped to me, so I headed to Autozone. Found the following, so I thought I would share. Fuel Pump: Brand - Airtex Supplier - Autozone Warrenty - 1yr P/N - E2000 Application: (option for) 1988 Ford F-150, 5.0Lt, FI, 8cyl. Price - $85 COMPARE Airtex E2000 / Bosh 0 580 254 910 Maximum Free Flow Rate (gph): 40 Maximum Pressure Range (psi): 95 Minimum Free Flow Rate (gph): 30 / 130 LPH (34 GPH) Minimum Pressure Range (psi): 70 / 5 BAR (72.5 PSI) NOTES: Outlet size matches, no adaption required. Inlet size of pump is 5/16" and needs to be addapted to the larger suction hose, or replace the suction hose. I used a 5/16" to 1/2" brass hose barbed fitting and a short piece of Fuel hose. I know there maybe some concern with the idea of making the supply/suction hose smaller, but IMO, if the MFG of the pump designed and supplied it with a connection fitting of 5/16" given their flow requirements for the pump, I think it is a safe bet to use 5/16" Not to mention the supply from the tank is 5/16", and connections through filter are the same. the only place the size changes is from outlet of the filter to inlet of Bosh pump. While at it I replaced the fuel filter (only made sense). I know there was some talk in previous posts about the filter having different size hoses connected to each side. I assumed the filter had different sized inlet/outlet but found that the larger outlet hose actually has an adapter inside it which necks it down to fit correctly on a 5/16" hose barb. The OE filter had same size inlet/outlet connections. Replaced with universal filter from Autozone. Brand: Duralast P/N: FF5/16DL Application: Universal Notes: filter physically smaller in size, but have had No issues with flow restrictions. Inlet/outlet sizes match OE hoses. As a bonus it is clear housing so it gives you a nice visual of whats happening there.

More low end torque.......I like the sounds of that! How long do you think before the manifold would be available?

I think I have gathered from reading your posts that you modified your manifold (welded tabs on it) to be able to flip it. But I thought others may have flipped it without doing the mod. Is the mod a must to get a good seal between runners and manifold when you flip it? On another note, I tried to find some Prussian Blue at the auto parts stores so I could do the matching and they all looked at me like I asked for a time traveling space rock........

Thats what I figured, and where I installed mine, but I wanted to make sure I was comparing apples to apples

Lenny, I would be down for one kit if you're still looking for buyers

Ok, Cams and fuel controller ordered! Now its just a waiting game......... For those of you using a A/F ratio gauge, where is your O2 sensor located in the exhaust (before or after CAT)? I read some posts (by Lenny I think) that the optimal performance is somewhere in the 12's on the A/F gauge, is that correct? Just wondering if that number is coming from a reading after the CAT or before.

email sent to this address, again. looking forward to hearing from you! Lenny, thanks for the info and assistance! What mod do you think helped the power lag around 2 - 5K rpm most?

I've been looking at Silver Bullets performance cams for my T2. I want to go ahead and order them, but haven't had any luck getting a hold of anyone. Can someone tell me what specific info I need? Can I order them right off the website without any additional info? Also, anyone who has put these into a non-turbo/supercharged engine, I would love to hear your feedback! I'm hoping the performance boost from the cams will keep me from going to the expense of forced induction

Thanks to all for the input. I tried contacting Foremost directly. I told them it was a Trooper 1100cc, not a renegade 800 and they said they would call me back. Never heard from them again. Just spoke with Mark at Fisher Insurance, he was great! Got me set up with a policy for $300/yr! Beats the heck out of what my previous insurance agent did for me ($800/yr), and he did it in just 10 min.

For those of you using Mark Fisher, have you been happy with his service? I used him in the past. Initially he was great, but a year or two later I needed to adjust my policy and I could not get any response from him either by phone or email. Just wondering if it was an isolated incident or not.

I just picked up my Joyner Trooper T2 and am trying to get insurance on it. I went through my insurance agent and he set me up with what basically looks like an auto policy costing $800/yr!!!!! This seems way to steep. He was telling me that he could not find anyone who would even insure the thing.I know there are a lot of UTV's running around out there, I can't imagine it's that impossible to get them insured. What companies do other people use to insure your UTV, and what kind of yearly premiums are people paying? Thanks for the help.

Alright, Profile updated with a little more info! RA might still be exchanging words over whose SxS is best.......I really try to stay out of that BS. I've never gotten a strong response on anything I've posted over there, no matter what the topic; dirt bike, quad, GPS info, riding partners, Joyner, etc. So rocmoc was the only one really responding to SxS posts about the T2, I figured i would move it over here. Thanks for the "welcomes"! glad to be in the loop with all the joyner tinkerers!

Thanks rocmoc! Thought I would move all those questions over here instead of on RA. Not that big of a Joyner following over on that site

Hi, I'm also new to this site and a new owner of a used T2. I'm happy with the ability of the rig, but want more low end power. That quest has lead to countless hours of reading on this site and the internet. For now I think that I am going to stay away from turbocharging, only because of money, but I did find the following turbo kit while I was looking/entertaining the idea http://www.ebay.com/itm/JOYNER-1100-TROOPER-TURBO-KIT-RHINO-POLARIS-RZR-/300606171036?hash=item45fd86279c&item=300606171036&pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_969 Thought I would throw it up here in case anyone would be interested. Seems like an awesome price! I'm really tempted to buy one myself even though I don't need to be spending what little money I have left on this right now.

Hello all, As the title says, I have been reading all kinds of posts on the site. Now i think its time to have an account and be official. recently I acquired a 2009 Joyner Trooper T2! Before buying it I did all kinds of internet research on them and found the most information here. Now that I own the T2 I have been doing even more research to find out what people have done with them. Looking forward to modifying and riding the T2, and chatting about either of the two subjects here