sturmadin

Thanks plumber. Anyone have any other locations before I go for it?

Thanks kinfari. I took the battery to 3 auto parts stores which ran every test imaginable, good battery. With the battery charged, I make 14.1 with the battery in the loop now. I am going to check the voltage and draw daily now.

Kinafari, Im sorry, im still very confused. My main alternator wire no longer goes directly to the battery. In aggravation, I ran 8 guage from the main terminal/positive post of the starter solenoid(where my alternator feed leap frogged to) to the to the cutoff switch. I ran 8 gauge from my battery positive lead to the other of the switch. The battery cutoff switch does exactly that now. The downside is when you take this battery key out, the buggy will run off the alternator making it useless as an emergency shutoff. I make 14.1 volts with the battery out of the loop and 13.0 with the battery connected. I am losing my mind here. I took the battery key out, in essence disconnected the entire positive lead from the buggy, and a week later the battery was dead AGAIN. Nothing I have done fixes this drain. I monitered the charging system at idle for 30 mins and it never dropped below 13.0. The battery was low however. Any other ideas? My understanding is with the postive lead of the battery completely disconnected, nothing can draw?

Thanks man. My truck actually takes hp1002, held it up to the stock filter right now, and its going to be tight. I think it will fit. WIthout suspension on the motor mount, close should be ok. I also cannot tell the differnece on the pat #s for the sandwich adapters. I think they are the same. Let me know if you detect otherwise.

Dead on plumber. I love wix, once saw an article where a guy sawed a ton of filters in half and found wix to be one of the best. I personally use those on my generic cars, and KN on my performance cars. I like the one inch nut on the back and I thought they also had a "hiflow bypass at high psi" and "antidrainback". WIth your oil cooler, 51348 matches up oil leak free with a 51712/25730 derale sandwich? 51712 appears to be an old part # Accidently bought a 20 x 1.5 mm derale if anyone wants one.

Anyone have a part # that will fit a T2? My stock filter says it has 3/4 x 16 threads right on it. ADMIN: Please change topic to 3/4 x 16. Sorry.

Kinfari, was wrong on output voltage. I am making 13.9 at the battery running and 12.5 off. Using an optima yellow top 51. Will run your test tomorrow when I take the bed off for access. I think its going to fail your test. It was the only component left hooked up to the battery after I isolated everything else to the shutoff switch. (my trooper came with some weird wire running directly to the battery which kept a fuse "constant power" running even after the shutoff key was removed. Thinking this was not only wrong but could be the draw, I rewired it to the shutoff. Did not solve the problem. Frustrated, I ran 8 gauge from the battery to the shutoff, and ran 8 guage back to the starter post, which is also where the feed for the alternator is. This obviously disconnects EVERYTHING with the shutoff key out, which I want. I am still concerned however that the bad alternator can cause other issues. Not my expertise. Appreciate your help. -joe

Hey guys, were did you mount your oil cooler? Pics please. Thanks!

Thanks guys! Off topic, but where did you get that oil pan?

Thanks again. I will do this tonight. I am assuming that if I get light, there is a leak? What would you charge to rebuild this thing and how quickly can you turn it around? Joyner says they have them for 219.00 which is insane. Can this also cause low idle/oil pressure? Last night after a quick run, at idle the oil light was illuminating and it appears to have no oil pressure. Give it a little gas and it climbs into tolerance and the light goes off. Oil full and only 18miles. sigh

Thanks for the response, but not sure what you are asking me to do. with the vehicle running probe across the main output terminal to which wire?

Hello, recently tracked down a battery drain which I believe is related to my alternator. The alternator seems to still produce power 13 volts, but drains the battery when parked even with the battery disconnect key removed. I rewired the entire system with 8 gauge to make the key shut EVERYTHING off when removed. Things I have noticed is a belt screech when I start, wondering if the alternator is not being properly energized? After reading a bit from this forum, sounds like I may have a bad alternator which could cause damage or breakdown further. Any advice on what I should do? -joe