justme254

I drive it slow in low but that does not use much fuel at all. Baby it would be the right words.Steering turned fine but pulled on front axle shafts.

I bought those by mail order from Power-sports Alaska. I have had those 3 or 4 years now. Good questions. I have the older model mattrack litefoot m-3 utv 3500 lbs. 2" tread.They sell a newer model now. It has both advantages and disadvantages and I had to learn to be real careful with them on that buggy. Upgraded the steering box, installed the new tracks but after one tiny test drive went back and put steering bump stops to limit the turning radius.They try to turn very well but the Joyner axles/CV joints were not made for the wider tracks. The tracks go great but are very low speed ,as it should be. It changes the gears way lower,in third low gear you can walk along beside it ,I toss firewood on it as it idles along. I made it for only low as yes I do have to be very careful with the tracks.They go good in deep snow,mud,swampy tundra,sand, and river beach sand and gravel.As I go down a hill I use some emergency brake or rear brake,you cant hit the bottom too fast it tries to turn the front tracks with too much stress and weight. They do not work well on solid bedrock with sharp rocks.One problem in a few mud-holes if a stick is buried the front goes over the stick but the rear tracks seem to go under the stick. Now I know what to watch for I think they are great. I haul a trailer at times with 500 to 700 lbs in just the trailer that has off-road truck tires and wheels but it pulls it like it is not there. The kids call it the Snail,they called it the Turtle at first but they thought it was much too slow for a turtle. In high gear and 4th gear it goes just under 40 mph so that is top speed. What I give up in speed I gain in torque.It will idle itself up over anything. I have a lot of grease fluids and cables to repair but the Trooper runs well inside.

They unscrewed the piece holding the key in the dash,pulled it out to under the dash in to the inner fender well, ripped the ignition key and had bare wires then just connected wires that let them start and drive it.I have it so it is in low gear so they stole it fast but the getaway must have been at a turtles speed. It took longer to drive it away than it did to steal it.

It was the wire harness ground wire. It bolted to the transmission bell housing which is alloy metal not steel and the engine and transmission are in a way just rubber mounted. The answer was so simple I did not think of trying it first. I took a ground wire off a Subaru battery bolted it under where the wires were bolted to transmission housing as ground, then scraped the paint and at first just clamped it to metal,later bolted it down to the frame steel. Works fine now cycles up starts runs fine. The one wire it needed was a new ground wire from frame to transmission. Now I can change the fluids and do some greasing. I have to use grease that wont freeze at -20 below and I use a small amount of 80-90 weight oil but mostly 5w-30w diesel engine oil Delo brand. Any 80 90 w oil its thicker than honey at very low temperatures it will not work at all but where you are at is different.I also use graphite to lubricate all the cables I took them loose on one end and filled them with the graphite. I bought it at a Ford dealership it is called Dry Film Lubricant Ford part number E2SZ-19553-A.So it runs but I wont drive it yet. Thank you for all the suggestions it kept me from pulling my hair out. It was so simple I will now attach a new ground cable to all my Joyners.I do not have the problems you do as far as heat at the back of the fuse box but I have mounted both the fuse box and the ECM with zip-lock bags over them it is not water tight but will keep mud and snow off of them. Thanks again guys keep the shinny side up

Yes no store bought meat. I can get food but I am trying to find a tube of [good] silicone and some thicker gauge wire and that is real hard. My family owns 4 Joyner's that's why I can steal parts for now. We have 2 T-2's and 2 R-4's.I cheat a little I guess I do have broadband over satellite and cable TV. I love my iPhone now we have service near here. Having the web has changed my life [for better or worse I am not sure yet] but I would never get to hear from such helpful people with out my laptop. Sub modern bush living.Thanks it looks good [the Trooper] and I take very good care of it so it is a genuine imitation Chinese machine but the prices were right. Yes the Alaska State Troopers found my Trooper. In a week or so I will tell you how the repairs go. Thanks to everyone who responded.

sorry I said 1999 it is a 2009 but anyone who knows Joyners must know I was wrong,I cant change the post title. I have a small heater core and a fan for inside the insulated cab. Kinarfi asked what part of Alaska I am at,South Central Alaska but way out in the woods along the Iditarod trail sled dog/Irondog route. The closest store for food is 32 miles down the trail where a Gallon of milk is $12.00 hamburger[frozen] is $ 9.00 a pound,a gallon of distilled water costs $7.00,I could not live anywhere else despite the downfalls here I love it. I sure dont have the problems you guys have I have different ones to operate vehicles in below zero tempratures.

Thank you for having this site there is not another one this helpful thanks guys. Yes Lenny I do get the signal,yes I agree it must be one stupid wire,and yes thanks I will install new ground wires from the engine. The main ground wire I see is hooked to a bolt that goes into the aluminum transmission housing. This from the beginning has not seemed to be the way to ground the wire harness so I will work on that.One wire that's what I have been looking for one wire pinched or worn.I agree.I do visit the lower 48 states but cant wait to get home I guess Alaska gets into your heart and mind after a while. Yes Kinarfi I did try that after reading your post and you are right pin 67 and 69 have power when key is turned[power up cycle]. I have another Trooper and will try that old computer in it once I solve this thanks though. The fuse box is disconnected to see the back and I keep switching the relays around I thought the same thing what if a relay failed[or a fuse] while I am doing this ,it is not that[yet]. I may end up running a new wire from the starter to the fuel pump and that will complete the circuit and make the fan run also.[power jumped to fuel pump made fan turn]. I will seal the computer with silicone good idea. I have a Owners manual and parts manual[both in same book] but the Chinese translation is off in places so I do have to guess what they are saying such as dipping beam must be low beam headlights]. Thanks for the diagram again though guys,the one I have it is so tiny I had to try to guess what the tiny blurry printed things said. A friend thought I was nuts using a magnifier to try to read it. Every idea you guys have posted is helpful and it reassures me I am not missing something I don't know about and it also tells me I was trying to fix this in the same way you guys would.I will post a photo later and show you my camo Trooper with a heated cab and Mattracks or tracked wheels. I also installed a dead switch so it cant be stolen again. It took them less than 2 minutes to steal it.Off to install all your great ideas and I hope to tell you it is running very soon. Thanks everyone E-ya soon

I checked carefully both the new computer pins and connector. The old computer has a rattle like something came loose inside of it. I have checked all three relays for continuity they work fine so far .I say that because that is where all power seems fine.With just a hot lead to one side of the fuel pump it ran both the fan and the fuel pump.I keep rechecking fuses and the relays every time I use the jumper wire.No real fuel pressure but that may be air in the line. The fan sounds awful but spins fast enough.I don't need a fan up here but I know that it is part of the complete key on cycle so yes I turn the key gauges cycle stater turns motor well but no power at fuel pump and this may be why the fan wont turn on as it is hooked to the fuel pump circuit that has no power. I spent hours looking at the wiring harness and see nothing[yet] I will just keep trying. The Joyner[right now I call it other UN-postable words] is not going to win this battle. Yes I don't ever carry a purse but almost always have my 12 gauge instead for Bears.I don't mean to make you feel like a wimp in any way but yes I am one tough cookie. I wouldn't last 2 hours in a big city though so I am wimpy in a big city.

I have also spent a long time uncovering every place the wires are covered and checking the wire harness for worn or pinched wires. It was not easy to do. Just the computer was $700.00 bucks plus fed ex $85.00 I don't know what you might pay but that's not cheap and helped but did not fix it.No crank before computer replacement.

Tested from front and back of fuses/fuse box more than once and have installed new fuses and new relays.That was the first place I checked then rechecked after computer install and again just to make sure.It had some mud in it but no wires burnt or disconnected. Of course a heated garage is there another kind? The garage is as warm as my house. I don't want to start changing wires as I progress forward it has run fine right out of the crate,maybe later.I have not tried a ground wire to the computer.It seems to me it is rubber mounted not grounded for a reason but I will try anything thank you though

Yes Spark when cranked NOW not before computer was replaced.Sorry about the power but I understand. Also this is inside a heated garage and has been since it was returned.

I thought the same that's why all relays were replaced with known working ones,4 -three behind the seat and one under the dash . Am I missing any? I looked for pinched wires.The fuel pressure my be low because the line is full of air I will fix that when the pump works like it should.Thanks for the encouragement!

My Trooper was stolen police just said 'it was in the edge of the lake'. What a bummer but I did get it back. I can not get the fuel pump or fan to cycle with key turn.I have replaced everything I could using parts from my other T-2 which used to run until parts swapping as listed I have changed:key ,aftermarket Warn Winch control box,every relay,every fuse, battery, computer box. Before I changed these I had no lights ,no crank ,no fan ,no fuel pump, gauges did work but that was it when you turned the new ignition key. The aftermarket Warn Winch would click with key cycles before replacement now it does work but wont click when I turn the key [as it should be],also the gauges were cycling properly. Now after changing one thing after another checking each time I changed a part I have lights,winch,and now it cranks but no fuel pump or fan cycle.I know it wont start without those,so with the key in on position jumped power to the fuel pump then both the fan and the fuel pump worked but no fuel pressure showing on gauge.I have spent hours checking the wiring harness and found on ground wire under the shifter plastic which I scraped the paint off then reinstalled.Another ground was on the engine near the starter. I rechecked all the fuses. I have power to the relays behind the seat all three of them. Again it cranks but no fan or fuel pump.Compression is good they put 8 to 10 miles on it. I have drained the fuel then added new fuel. I am sure I can get it to go over 60 mph again if I push it off a cliff. I got it back so no insurance help.I live in Alaska where there are no dealers of any ATV's UTV's.Please tell me what else to try. I am at wits end and yes guys I am female but have worked as a auto mechanic in the past.I cant take it to someone else I must fix this.Any ideas?