kenfain

A quick Google search shows it to be a Hisun built model. That's a Rhino clone, from what I understand. And if that's true, I'd expect it to be more similar, than not, to the Rhino. So depending on what parts, you might need. There's several options for finding them across the three brands. I wouldn't expect much in the way of dealer support though.

How you mount the winch, would probably depend mostly on what you expect to use it for. A receiver mount can be useful for being lightly stuck, and having an anchor point somewhat straight behind, or in front. A side pull from a receiver could be trouble. Especially if the buggy is buried. Receivers aren't made to take a side load, and aren't rated for that much weight anyway. Unfortunately I've found that optimum conditions rarely present themselves in a winching situation. I always carry several tow straps, and lots of rope. Along with several shackles, and several snatch blocks. Although I rarely use any of it. Power cables would be a pain, and expensive for the rear mount. I've found that winches in general are a pain. But occasionally it's the best tool for the job. Although I typically use a come along, and try to avoid deep muck. I will say this for certain. Get the kevlar rope, or similar. Cable is extremely dangerous under load. People have died after a steel winch cable snapped. Cable will fray a bit, no matter how carefully you treat it. Leaving painful surprises along it's length, as you guide it back on the spool. My vote would be for a front bumper mounted warn winch. With lots of accessories, and preferably a cordless remote, with a wired backup remote. FWIW, my buggy weighs around 1500pounds. My 4000 lb. Warn winch would almost certainly need at least one snatch block to pull it out of floor board deep mud. So go bigger than you think you need, if you'll be in serious back country.

Checking the wiring is a good start. Checking the ground for a solid connection. Test the positive cable for resistance. Test the starter's amp draw. I'd suspect that it's a starter issue. Being the most expensive of the bunch to fix, I know that'd be my luck.

Batteries rated in ah, are typically deep cycle batteries. Not considered to be starting batteries for some reason. Although they start an engine just fine. It's something about the light discharge of starting, followed by a full charge by way of alternator, or whatever. Deep cycle apparently prefers to discharge more deeply before recharging. Hence the name. But mine came with a deep cycle battery, for starting, and it's what I replaced it with. As far as a correlation goes, the answer is sort of lol. I know, that when I was looking for a battery, I asked the same thing. And there's no hard rules on this. Kinda like how a gas engine is rated in horsepower. Yet a diesel is rated by ft.lbs of torque. Or something similar. Just trying to keep things simple I guess. If you should find a battery that fits, but is rated in ah instead of cca. I wouldn't worry about it being a problem. But you should be able to find out if it's got enough power to do the job, by taking some time on the internet. There's not an abundance of information, but there is some stuff out there about the cca/ah compatibility. Seems like it was a mathematical equation to solve the riddle. Mine was 35ah, and it seems like the replacement was just under that. On the plus side, you should be better equipped to run more power draw accessories with the engine off, using a deep cycle battery.

Can't help you on your decision for a choice of which individual machine to buy. But you should buy a trusted name brand. Buy once cry once. You'll spend more time enjoying the heck out of it. Instead of cussing it, and wondering why there's no repair information available. These newer machines have onboard computers, but it's hard to use the diagnostic port. Mostly because of the scarcity of readers, or information. These days having a code reader is essential. But the port on these aren't OBD2. And there's little to no customer service to guide you through this. I know it's no help, but I tell everyone who is buying a new S×S. Get a golf cart instead, if there's any way that it might possibly fit your needs. The price, options, accessories, are all in your favor. With an expensive S×S, nothing is easy, or cheap. But you really can't take a golf cart off roading. So there's that.

Isn't the U1 a lawn tractor battery? If so, then I wouldn't expect them to go higher than 350cca. But you can measure your space available, and find something else that'll fit. Maybe something taller? When I found out that they no longer make the factory battery for my mule. I used a tape measure, and figured out which direction had some wiggle room. Then went to Walmart, and measured batteries. FWIW, the one I have is about the same size as the lawn tractor battery, and it has 350cca. And mine is a 920cc. 3 cylinder diesel. But it costs a whole lot more than the lawn tractor battery.

Well it's a process of elimination. Every component has to be individually checked. This takes time, especially when we do it through online media. But if you're willing to stick with it, we can do this. Have you checked the actuator? They probably call it a servo. It should be a black box mounted to the back of the front differential. It'll have contacts that need to be checked, to see if they're burned. Next up, and the most likely culprit is the servo motor.

You might try one of those patches that has a plug attached. If you buy another tire, you'd have a full set.

That's just what I suspected. So is the defective tire repairable?

I'd say that if you sent a good picture, they'll probably send a new replacement tire. No way they're paying for sending it back.

I think that they'll make it right. The upside is, they'll probably just send another tire. No return necessary. Possibly giving you 3 tires to work with. Last time I had an issue, the vendor had to make it right. They were very slow to respond at every turn. But I was easily able to satisfy all their concerns about it being legit. So was it an actual defect? Or just a brand new tire, that had a standard puncture wound?

Just like voter fraud lol! We're just not seeing any evidence of any defects. Nothing to see here, just move on.

You jinxed it by saying "no defects" lol.

Nice, I still get emails from clicking your link. There's some good deals out there. I've found some affordable 6ply tires from those emails. Before long, I'll need new tires as well.

Nice job! Everything looks better with a new coat of paint.

I've never seen a Qlink, but my understanding, is that it's a Rhino clone. There's plenty of information out about the Rhino. So if it's actually a clone, then the wiring would likely be more than similar. If not exactly the same. Since it's very unlikely that the Qlink manufacturer would try to fit the same components in, using a whole new floorplan. I think that it's a good bet, that the wiring would be the same as well. Might find some answers there at least.

I thought that they'd likely be the same size on the rear. Unlike the front, there's little reason to have an offset. Glad you got it figured out.

Simple 12v switches are weak. They don't have what it takes to handle any real type of load, like an actuator. So that's what relays are for. So it's almost impossible for there not to be a relay to run that 4wd actuator. Which one it is, I don't have any clue. The good news is that they're usually all interchangeable. So while they won't interchange with the ones on your car, or truck. You should be able to switch them out with the others in the same fuse panel. There's several ways to go about this. If you can find the wires at the actuator, and verify the same colored wires at the fuse panel. That'll tell you which one it is. Or another way is to just find out if you have a bad relay period. By using the interchangeability to test in a known good circuit. Like the headlights, or horn, or winch. Pick a relay, pull it, see what doesn't work. Might take a couple of tries, to find one suitable. Use that circuit to test the other relays. Only do one at a time, put it back, move to the next.

No idea about a manual. But unfortunately it's all about the testing stuff. See if you can easily find the actuator at the differential. Or wires going inside the diff. Test for power from the switch.

Have you checked the button, to make sure it works? Next would be the relay (I'm assuming that it's electrically activated since you said button). Then there's the actuator in, or near the differential.

Travis, have you checked for internal corrosion in the battery cable? Sometimes they get corroded, and unless the outer sleeve partly exposes the bare wire, it can be otherwise impossible to see. That severely limits the amount of current that's available to the starter. It would still work great on the bench. But not have enough current available under load. It's a longshot, but it does happen. As to rebuilding the old starter. You can use the new starter that didn't work out, as a donor. No rebuild kit needed, and just reuse the factory, heavy duty armature.

Any luck on this? Have you compared the old, and new parts side by side? See if there's any difference?

If they shipped them out, looking like they should, and not collapsed flat. Then you have an excellent chance to mount those yourself. That bead seating tank will do the trick. If they do send them flattened, what I did was hang my tires up overnight, on their side, using hooks under the top bead. With the rim mounted, hanging from the bottom side. Let the weight of the rim pull the tires out into shape. Or you could put blocks of wood inside the tires overnight. That harbor freight mini tire changer works okay for these.

You have to get the old tires off the rims, and unseating that bead can be tricky. Putting it on the rim is the easy part. Getting it inflated, and seating the new bead is the problem. New tires are shipped pressed flat. So it's a fight just to get it expanded enough to even reach both beads. Although there's several ways of doing it, none are as easy as it seems like it should be. After several attempts, and various methods are used. It's time to finally seat the bead. Unless you have an expensive purpose built air tank, that's built just for this. You have to use something highly flammable. Using a small explosion to supply the needed energy. Starting fluid is what most people use. It feels very dangerous, and imprecise. I've caught the new tire on fire several times before. Sometimes they just work out easy, usually not. But it does work. A little scary the first time though. If the tires are delivered fully formed, like they are in the picture, and not like flat, rubber rings, then you're halfway there. And might not need anything more than a simple hookup to a compressor. I'd YouTube it, then go ahead and do it. Because the hard part is mostly done. Probably take a good hour of your time, and It's actually kind of satisfying when it finally pops into place.

Good price on 4 ply tires. I hope you've found someone local who will mount them. Not every tire shop can, or will, of course some do, and some charge extra for it. But if you want to have it done, to avoid possible b.s. you should find that place beforehand. If you want to do it yourself, it's very possible. But it's a huge p.i.a. and can test your patience. YouTube makes it look easy, but be aware, that's the final edit.