kenfain

Send a PM to Strike250, he's generously provided service manuals to any who ask. As long as it's one of the models that he has the manual for.

If you're talking about a battery disconnect, that would probably work. You should take the battery to autozone also. Have them do a load test. The battery needs a full charge for this test.

To see if it's charging, you need to use a multimeter. Set it to read in the 20v range. Test at the battery while it's running. You should see at least 13.5v

Have you checked the fluid?

Great to hear it. Seems like that was mentioned a few posts back After all the mistakes, and negligence you've discovered so far. If it were me, I wouldn't feel comfortable unless I pulled the new clutch. See what else was missed. Replace all the bearings that didn't look new. All new seals, and everything is properly torqued. There's just too much that was missed. It's like a non mechanically inclined 15 yr. old did it on a budget. If you take it out to a rural area to ride. I'd have trust issues. Of course that could wait till dead winter. Giving some weeks of getting familiar with it. And a bit of fun. Not looking at it, I couldn't say about the access. But I'd suspect that you could get to it, by pulling it out part of the way. Probably be a PIA doing it that way, especially if you have large hands. But I'm sure it can be done.

I was just thinking about a clogged cat myself. Since the 02 sensors were dirty. But instead of disconnecting the exhaust, I'd try running it without the downstream 02 sensor first. Might have enough flow to tell. See if it revs?

I agree with this, 50 is close enough. And if the clear filter shows consistent delivery, I think that's probably not the problem.

It does sound like a sensor problem, that's affecting the fuel delivery. Possibly the cpu, but probably not. Unfortunately I have no idea about what the tps is supposed to read on the resistance. Unless you can verify that it's supposed to top out at 2, it really sounds like it's working. Two sounds a little low for the upper limit. Since it typically starts with something like a volt, or so. Just like seven volts seems a bit high for the upper limit. Since you plan on replacing it, we'll see what happens. When I'm working on a car, and this comes up. The internet has all the answers. But with these things, that kind of information is harder to find. It's a shame that the s×s manufacturers don't use the OBD2 system. It would make these kinds of diagnostic issues much simpler.

From the sound of it, I think you've got a bit of a project ahead. Just catching up on the scheduled maintenance, plus the overdue stuff, like the hoses, is a project in itself. Have you made any progress on diagnosing the ignition? What about replacing the hoses?

I'd Replace all air, and fuel lines, hoses, filters, plugs and wires too. Of course you'll check the function with each new hose, belt, whatever. Along with new gas, I'd add some fuel stabilizer. I use it year round, because its cheap enough. Specific radiator hoses are typically a bit pricey, so those can wait...for now. Your okay plowing the yard if a hose breaks. But if you ever take it on the trails, then I'd replace those hoses as soon as possible after this other issue gets solved. What you're likely dealing with, is a combination of things. Most, if not all, from the sound of it, are from lack of proper periodic maintenance. I'd do this first, since it needs to be done anyway. Besides, you might get lucky, and find the problem while you're doing this.

Sorry, I didn't see this before I posted above. Grounding problems are a thing. And they create some real headaches because they're a sometimes problem, but they're always invisible. Making them tougher to find. I solve those by finding the ground, remove it, and wire brush all contact surfaces. That's still no guarantee, but like cleaning the battery terminals, I consider it as normal maintenance. As I said in my previous post, I think that it's a fuel/air issue. Most likely the carburetor. Based on your earlier posts. Sorry, but I don't have the ability to watch your posted video because of spotty, and slow internet.

Nah, it's no big deal here. You got this. Unless you really want to go riding, and don't care to spend the time to learn about it. Believe me, I totally understand if you took it to the shop. But I think that based on what you've posted so far. That it's not that bad. It really sounds like a fuel problem, from the earlier posts. Has this machine been sitting unused for awhile, prior to the current issues? Because sitting unused is the biggest problem for all my carbureted engines. The good news, is that a carb rebuild is cheap enough. I prefer a carburetor. When they're running good, everything is fine, with less maintenance. If you like that buggy, don't sell it yet. Because, unless your replacement buggy is new, or almost new. You'll be wishing you had this one back. Finding the problem only takes a little detective work. First off, buy a can of cheap starting fluid. I get mine from Walmart. When you get ready, we'll be here to help. As to the lug nuts, there's a 99.999% chance that any lug nut will be standard. Left will loosen it, right to tighten. There are vehicles in the world that have other thread directions. But a s×s isn't one of those.

KentC is absolutely correct here. Not owning one myself, I tend to forget about the peculiarities of each model. Not only changing oil, but the oil level itself could cause problems. So before you adjust, check the oil level.

They're supposed to be interchangeable, if the plugs are the same. Since they all do the same thing, the same way, I have no reason to doubt it. But I've never put that to the test. And I'm not familiar enough with the subject to speak with any authority. In a typical situation like this, I'd say to check stock numbers, to see if they're the same. That would give you the answer. But in my experience, 02 sensors usually have different size pigtails, for upstream, vs. downstream. That would make the numbers different, just for that alone. But if for some reason, I was really motivated to go with a generic, because of price, or availability. I'd have a good feeling about my chances. Since it can't really be anything more than a thermal switch. But unless you've found some that are really cheap. I'd suggest waiting for someone else to answer, maybe someone else has direct experience. Or maybe the local parts guy could weigh in on it. That's the sort of thing that a decent auto parts counter guy would know.

It's possibly a Delphi type plug. And while Dan B might be correct about the plug wires themselves. My point was, and is, that I'd check all the little things, like connections. Because it sounds like the clutch was replaced by someone who knows very little about mechanical best practices. And likely didn't do much scheduled maintenance either. Also since they obviously missed at least one connection. I'd replace the obviously bad things, like the 02 sensors. Give it a chance to be an easy fix. And even if it doesn't, then this needs to be done anyway, to narrow the possibilities. After that, I'd look at the position sensors.

Dunno about the manual. I've never seen one. Don't own a Trooper either. Just basic mechanical knowledge. 02 sensors are like most things, in that they can be filthy, and work great. Or slightly dirty, and not work at all. But generally speaking, they're crucial for having the correct fuel/air mix. So I'd say that it's possible for it to be the problem. So you'll definitely want to find out. I'd test those first, then replace either, or both, that don't test good. If they're cheap, then I'd just replace them. They're likely not interchangeable, so I wouldn't expect it to run very well when switched. Have you tried searching for trouble codes? It'll definitely have a diagnostic port somewhere. Or it'll probably flash code sequences using something like the clock.

Since it was running good before a clutch change. I'd suspect something happened during the fix. Have you checked the firing order? Is it possible that they got a plug wire switched?

When you say hard starting, you're talking about extended cranking time, right? Is this thing fuel injection, or carburetor?

Can't really say much about the key issue. Other than maybe a possible ignition switch problem. At least that's where I'd start. If it's easy to pull the ignition from the vehicle, it's extremely easy to test. If not, then it's a bit more trouble to do. And since it might not be the problem, I wouldn't take the dash apart. There are other ways to troubleshoot this. But if you need the details to diagnose a switch. The internet explains it better, and with illustrations too. Just Google it. But if it turns out that's not the problem, then troubleshooting gets more complicated to do long distance. But we'll hammer at it, till it's figured out. The shifting issue is probably going to be the real problem. You should definitely try to tighten the adjustment a bit. It'll probably fix it for awhile. Although I have very little confidence that it's the adjustment, that's the best place to start. And it can't hurt. Since if it's not an adjustment, at the heart of the problem, then it's probably an internal issue with the clutch itself. However, it sounds like an adjustment might work short term. But it'll start to happen again, till there's no more adjustment left. Or it breaks. Keep us updated on any developments, we'll help where we can. Good luck!

It's a sad day, one of the best loved actors of our time has passed. As well as being one of my personal favorites. Sir Sean Connery aged 90. He's probably best known for his portrayal of agent 007 James Bond. To most people my age, there's only one James Bond. And that's Sean Connery, in my opinion nobody played 007 better, either before, or since. Thank you for the memories Sir!

That's a huge sidewall. I'd think that they're very forgiving as far as wheel width difference. And it's such a small difference, that my guess, is that there's no problem. The rim manufacturer would know the absolute answer. Because of safety reasons, they'd almost have to respond to your inquiry.

I have zero experience with an exhaust silencer. But my thought would be, that it'd have to help with the noise. I can't imagine that it would actually be quiet, but instead, I'd expect the improvement to be only marginally better. If you're thinking about stealth. I seriously doubt that it'll actually be quiet. That whole side of the mountain will still be aware of your presence. But I would certainly think that the noise would be somewhat improved. Those silencers have been around for years. If it were that easy, then everyone would have one. And it would probably be standard equipment on most buggies. So I'd caution you not to over expect, for results. If they make a direct fit, that installs clean, and neatly on your machine. Then it's probably worth the effort and expense. And I don't see how it could hurt. If you go that direction, please document, and share the install here with us. As well as the results.

As was recommended in an earlier post by Mackc. I tell everyone who asks the question about what to buy, with the same answer. Buy a used golf cart if it's at all possible. They're very limited on performance, but they're cheap, plentiful, easily replaced, and durable. There's no way that I could get by with one. And if you want it for trails, hills, or mud. Then you won't be happy. But they're great for mostly flat ground, or with a well defined trail. They have a surprising amount of power. The electric models easily last all day on a charge.

You might think about choosing the wording carefully when giving a review. Or you might possibly offer to give a glowing review? The amount of help you get from the manufacturer, might depend on your attitude in that review. I fully understand your frustration, but it's something to consider.

In light of the age, and mileage, coupled with the no pulse, and the no spark issues. It really sounds like a CPU problem. Possibly you could convince the manufacturer to send you a replacement? Todays high tech engines need good solid technical support from the manufacturer. Unfortunately that's not the case with Hisun. That just makes everything so much harder to deal with.