kenfain

I like it! But we need pictures of that thing in deep mud.

Welcome to the forum! You'll need to narrow it down some. What are the other particular details leading up to it dying. Are we dealing with a motor that is at operating temperature when it dies? Has it been sitting up, unused for a while? Or is it a semi daily driver, that's recently developed this issue? While we're working this problem, I'd try some easy stuff. Like pulling the gas cap while at idle, to let it breathe. See if it makes a difference. Listen for back pressure hiss when it breaks the seal. Next would be to blow out the fuel lines. Both fuel in, and vapor return lines. Check the filter.

My understanding about the blinking clock, is that it does it automatically. Whenever it encounters a fault. Fixing the problem is the only way to stop the blinking. So it sounds like it hasn't encountered a fault. That's why I mentioned the CPU. If it were a position sensor, you would've definitely noticed, and likely mentioned the blinking clock. I have no idea where to find the code reader port. My guess would be that it's under the dash. All that I've seen on the reader, seem to indicate that it's a Delphi type. Do you have a service manual? One of our members has been kind enough to offer free manuals to others. I know that he was providing manuals for the Massimo. You might see if he's able to provide the one for the Hisun. If you're interested, then hit Strike 250 with a p.m. and ask about availability.

I think that on most machines, it makes the clock blink a sequence, that would indicate the actual code. Or there's a code reader available, but it would have to be the generic version. The one from Hisun is very expensive, considering what it is, and how little information it provides. It's just that your issue sounds like a crank, or cam position sensor. Or possibly the CPU itself. A fault code would provide invaluable help here.

Is it showing any fault codes?

Welcome to the forum! I don't know what the ethanol mix in your area is. But ethanol in the fuel can cause injector problems also. Not saying that it's the actual cause of your issue. But it's very possible. And certainly worth looking into.

Does it have a trip mileage reset button on the odometer.

What got my interest, was how you actually determined the injector was the culprit. And which one it was. Did you pull the injectors, and manually operate each one? Checking the spray? Or use some kind of pulse detector?

Glad to hear you found the problem! And thanks for the update. How did you determine the exact cause of the problem?

Does it have the yellow button?

Sure sounds like a transmission. Have you made sure the transmission is full, of the correct fluid? And if it's a wet clutch, that should be topped off with the correct fluid also. If it runs strong up till the 35 or so, before the problem starts. And there's no noise coming from the rear differential. I'm leaning towards it being a transmission issue. If there are any belts involved, that's another possibility.

Welcome to the forum! Sounds like a solid choice for a new ride.

As I've said, I don't own one of these. Most everything I comment on, is general knowledge from many years of mixed experience. But about your O-ring. If it's truly a rubber O-ring, then I'd keep reusing it, after checking it for damage. And putting a little liquid silicone on it, to make it last a bit longer. I'd most definitely match it up with a new one, at the next oil change, to be used as a spare when the original gives up. Replace it every couple of years, as it coincides with normal oil changes. Or sooner, obviously, if there's any sign of anything other than perfect.

I've never heard of an aluminum plug. It'll be steel, or brass, but probably stainless steel.

Once you get that plug out, there's no reason why you should ever have that problem again. Those threads will be lubricated with the drained oil. And you can't use factory torque anyway.

It's not unusual to have an extremely tight drain plug the first oil change. The plug was installed at the factory on bone dry threads, by someone who could easily get away with maximum torque. So it isn't surprising that it's frozen in place. When you reinstall the plug, just make sure that it's finger tight, plus MAYBE an eighth of a turn. Just enough that it'll neither leak, nor vibrate out. Because you don't want to strip, nor stretch those threads. Factory threads in an aluminum block are a fragile thing. And they're a one time thing. If you mess that up, there's no getting them back.

I believe the best way to narrow it down between the two possibilities, would be to park on that hill. Pointing downhill, and gun the motor a bit. See if it will come on, while stationary. By taking the belt out of the equation. That will eliminate all possibility of conflicting results. Otherwise, you could be correct about the belt. I think it unlikely with so few hours, but I've seen much stranger things. It has been interesting, but I'm ready for definitive conclusions.

I really doubt that it is. The machine shouldn't have that narrow of a performance band. Unless that hill was so steep that you couldn't get up it, if it were dirt. Even then. it shouldn't be anything more than having the machine struggle with enough power. If it even did that. Not a CEL. Besides you get the CEL mostly going down, not up. I think that it's starving for oil, when the nose is much lower than the tail. Anything more than idle rpms put more demand on it. That oil change might give it the boost in pressure that it needs, to stay on the good side of that CEL threshold.

To be honest, I have a different brand machine altogether. So I have no idea what it takes to clean that screen. If the fumoto doesn't have to be screwed in, and out with each oil change, I think it would be ok. But since the fumoto is made of brass, and has a fiber washer. Then there's plenty of chance with each oil change, for things to go sideways, or for it to eventually leak, if it has to be screwed out to get to that screen. But a cleaner oil change is pretty much assured. Since you just snap the hose on the valve, put the other end in a bucket, and flip the lever.

That's the whole point of having it pinned. I haven't looked for it here, but on other forums. When you open the sub forum for that make, it'll be at the top. No matter how many posts happen. It'll always be there at the top. So you can easily reference it anytime you like, by opening the Massimo sub forum.

No reason why the winch idea wouldn't work. As long as it drains towards the back. They also make suction tubes for removing oil through the dipstick. I've never had much luck with that though. But it was more about lack of technique, and not having the proper tool for the job. Besides I prefer the drain method. Fumoto valves can be bought through Amazon. Or you can call them direct. You'll need to know what the thread size, and pitch is for your drain plug. They make several styles. I use the short nipple style, and it takes an adapter to connect to a hose. Fumoto sells both, they're cheap enough, but hose can be found locally. But you would need the hose connector to use a hose.

I highly suggest that you install a valve for draining the oil. I use a fumoto valve, but there are others. Makes draining oil much easier, cleaner, simpler, faster. Be advised that they sometimes/usually have clearance issues with skid plates though. Others have had to cut a hole for clearance. Yours might have a good alignment between the access hole and the drain hole. As far as the light goes. Here's a couple of other things to try. Going downhill in low. And try it in neutral again, only stop on the hill, for a moment. Also try making a u-turn, and point it back uphill, if it goes off, then,try driving uphill from there. In all cases, I'd be careful not to allow that light to remain lit, any longer than the minimum possible. You might find that coasting downhill is the best way to go. My guess would be that the oil pick-up tube is favoring the rear of the sump. So when you're pointing down, it's high and dry. This might be important for long term engine health. For example parking the machine for awhile. Would mean pointing the nose uphill. To avoid a dry start.

No matter which type oil you decide on, it's going to be the new normal. So pick one you can be happy with. The one you linked was eight bucks a quart. That's premium oil price. So, at that price, you can pick most any exotic brand you like. You can think beyond the autozone brand. But if you like that one though, it's as good as any. You can always switch brands later. Conventional oil works just fine. I use it exclusively in my daily driver. But I'd probably use synthetic in a new s×s. It probably needs changing either way. So get back to us, and let us know how it went. And if it's still even an issue. I think it'll make a difference, but you'd probably need an oil pressure guage, to tell if it really helped. Because things like that, typically don't make a radical difference. But will it be enough to keep that light off? I'd say that the odds are good.

I would put the oil in that's specified in the manual. Nothing special, unless you're going to use something special, and harder to find from now on. I would however, most likely use a synthetic. But if the current break in oil, is diluted in any way, with anything at all. Then that would easily account for your issue. My thought would be to use the oil that I plan to use. Because its better to know it now, while it still has plenty of warranty time left. Than to finally get fed up with mixed, semi unsatisfactory results, until the warranty is either expired, or at the very end of the service life. Because there's a good likelihood that it won't just be immediately solved. When that time comes, you'll want lots of cushion time. So they can't just immediately fold on the last day.

Yes, it's such a shame. People who own one, really seem to like these things. And it is a good looking, good sized, adequately powered little buggy. There's good dealer distribution infrastructure already in place, to buy these things. Really, if you think about all the logistics, of bringing something like this to market. All the hard part is mostly already in place. The only thing missing is service after the sale. If this company ever beefed up a parts, and service division. They'd have a serious contender for all the other brands to contend with. Mostly because of price point. We'll be here to help, any way we can. I wish that everyone would remember that all the information that's shared here with us, is a permanent record that others can search. To better, and more easily solve the same problem. So thanks for sharing any new developments. Good luck!