kenfain

If the sensor is cheap enough, it's worth a try. But I've been burned before by making an assumption about something mechanical, that I thought was obvious. I try not to make expensive mistakes like that anymore.

If it's an OBD2 port, then, in theory it should be easy to connect. I'm sure that it won't have all the pids that an auto has. But if it has a compatible protocol, it should give up what it does have. A live data reading would solve the problem in short order. The OBD2 port has a distinctive shape, as do all the different diagnostic ports. The tester is cheap enough. I buy the cheap ones at harbor freight. Make the shape comparison, to be sure it's actually the right port. Non OBD2 is a bit more difficult, because it's not universal. So there's no point wasting time on that. That belt sensor is probably hard wired then. I've got the same thing in my car. Short of unraveling the harness. Only an electrical diagram would tell where it goes. Even then, it likely goes through the CPU. Nothing much to add, unless you haven't tried jiggling the buckle while it's clasped and driving. Listening for any change in engine tone, or cadence. So waiting on the service tech would be my move. Otherwise you're chasing things that likely aren't broken. Which isn't necessarily a bad thing, if you had the tools, and the time. Ask the tech, if you get the chance. If it is indeed standard OBD2. This information will come up later! Now would be an excellent time to source a service manual. If it's even available now, it certainly won't be in a couple of years.

Don't know if they'll work on that. Since it's just exactly like it was designed. However, if you give them some ideas that're easy. Like taking the pin out, and giving it a smack right in the middle with a hammer. Like how you fix a household door that creaks/swings by itself. Giving it just enough warp to hold it tight. Not familiar with the new design, I have no idea if that's even reasonable. But it might work. Maybe grease the hinge pin? If it's too much end play, maybe you could find a nylon washer at Lowe's? You wouldn't even need to pull the pin. You could just split the washer, and push it in place in the gap at the end. Even if it wasn't end play, that might put enough pressure on the pin to quieten it down.

Its definitely essential to get the factory authorized tech to do the work. But because of liability, they probably won't be allowed to change any factory design parameters. The best they'll be able to do, is diagnose, and replace parts. So unless it's as simple as changing a known spring, with a factory heavier version, per some kind of factory service bulletin. They'll be bound by manufacturer contract, to keep factory specs on all work performed. The best you could hope for, is for it to actually be that simple. And the tech take pity on you, and make it happen. OTOH, if you can show where it's short on pressure even by factory standards. They'd at the very least, HAVE to replace that spring with a new one. Maybe it's defective? Otherwise, I'm afraid the answer would be somewhere between; we couldn't find anything wrong. And, oh that's pretty normal for that model. My experience with these situations, is to know exactly what it needs, or what specifically isn't working. So you know exactly what to ask for. It creates better communication, and idea of expectations. And gives them less opportunity to pass it off as normal.

Having wires to the seatbelt means that it's either completing the circuit when the belt is clicked in. Or it breaks the circuit. So you'd just trace the wire back to the nearest plug. Probably less than a foot, or so. Unless the plug is on the sensor itself, inside the buckle. Pull the plug, and try it out. If that doesn't work, then try to jumper the two wires in the open plug end. But let's not forget, that we're only assuming that this is the actual problem. It could easily be a clogged injector. Since it has a diagnostic port, you might get some answers there. Is it a standard OBD2 port?

If it's a design flaw, then they'll just string you along, denying it all the way. The fact is, that it does actually work. So unless you can demonstrate that it produces sub standard pressure. It probably wouldn't be eligible for warranty work, even if they have good customer service. Because it would have to show a light while the tech is working on it. And like you've said, it works great on the flat ground. If you can put the rear up on jacks and have it come on, you'd stand a better chance to get it done. This pump stuff is over my head as well. But you just have to take it one small step at a time. Checking specs, and measurements will answer most questions. And a lot of these questions, could also be answered by the tech, or the manufacturer. The first step, is narrowing it down. Having a solid idea of exactly what the problem is, will be a good barrier against service center run around. Where they either lie and say they fixed the problem. Or say that they can't find anything wrong. You need to determine that the oil pressure, on a brand new machine is too low. If that is what it turns out to be. Try to get in writing, from the manufacturer, what an actual psi value is supposed to be. Versus what you can verify it is. Put in for warranty work on that. A vague issue like an unexplained light, gives them too much wiggle room.

Does it have a sensor under the seat? Or are there wires going to the seatbelt? Because either one, if found, would be the sensor to check. Although not likely. It's possibly as simple as bypassing the sensor.

Possibly there's the ability to use a pump from a larger motor?

How long after the vehicle hits level ground, till the light goes off? Is the oil topped off with the right oil?

That sounds like a low oil pressure warning. Going down hill leaves the oil pump starving for oil, as the oil pools at the far end of the sump.

My diesel mule is extremely, and uncomfortably loud. But it's really loud at the intake, more so than the exhaust. Of course that intake comes through the roll bar, which is right by my ear, but still... My solution was a rear window, and lots of insulation beneath the seat. Now the noise is re-routed. And much more tolerable. Mine is a typical old style s×s, so that approach probably wouldn't work on one of those new style dune buggies. My point is that you might need to look at deflecting the intake as well.

Sorry buddy, I thought that I was clear about the wiring, and the draw. Looking back at my post, I see that isn't the case. Mine is a direct hookup, using battery cable sized wire. The engine absolutely must be running during the entire pull. It doesn't matter what kind ,or how strong, or how big of a battery. A winch at full load will empty a battery in a couple of minutes. Unless that engine is running. I've owned several vehicles that were equipped with a winch. So trust me on this. Tips to consider. A snatch block is a necessity for several reasons. Sometimes two would be better. Winching is extremely hazardous when you use wire rope. That cable breaks, people can, and have died. Get that kevlar type stuff, you'll be much happier with it. Also for several reasons. If it breaks, you only have to buy a new one. A wireless remote is the most wonderful, perfect, winch accessory. But the batteries are always dead when you need it. So...what did you decide to do about installing that thing? I've always found that they're not as handy as you'd think they would be. But there's no getting around the fact, that sometimes they're the only way out. So I put one on everything that goes off-road.

Welcome to the forum! New guy buys the first round lol.

Any updates?

Any luck with this problem yet?

Welcome to the forum! For maximum exposure, and to observe forum courtesy, and tradition. You should open a new topic in the Joyner sub section.

This is solid information, on a topic that's really important to plenty of members right now. It should be a sticky, or whatever this forum calls it. So that we don't have to search for it. And it doesn't get buried beneath the chaff.

It looks like it takes a Delphi scanner to diagnose fault codes. I don't know if they're all the same, or if an adapter will do the job. Or if maybe some, or most Delphi scanners come with multiple adapters. I know very little about anything automotive scanner related, prior to OBD2. All I know is, that the Hisun manufacturer sells the Delphi scanner for $1300 bucks. And furthermore, I also know that the Delphi scanner is a precursor to the OBD2 system. And Delphi scanners are neither scarce nor priced above about $30 bucks. At least according to a brief internet search. So I think further research would be time well spent. If, or when you get ready to pursue that approach. You'll need a good picture of your diagnostic port on the vehicle. Fellow member strike 250 has been offering free service manuals for certain models of the Massimo. And it's entirely possible that he could source one for your make/model. It never hurts to ask.

Don't know if theirs is a typical OBD2 code reader. If so, there's much cheaper options. I have no idea where the port might be. Except to guess that, like in a car, that it's in the driver's side compartment. If you have access to something that provides live data, that plugs into a standard OBD2 port. I'd give it a shot, see if it'll pair. You should keep us posted on the results.

See if this helps don't know if it'll work. But Joe Toup is a member. Maybe you could have him elaborate? I did see where Massimo offers a cheap code reader, that isn't cheap at all. And unless it provides live data, it's next to useless. But it's worth checking out to see if it'll work for you.

You mentioned in your original post, that the tech did some kind of splice/repair of the seatbelt circuit. In light of your statement about the feel of being governed, and also rtate1050's post above. I think I'd take a hard look at that splice work. You might very well be in limp mode. Possibly try jiggling the splice when it's driving. Maybe tie a string to it, so you can give it a good jiggling. If there's any change in the performance, you've likely found the problem.

Some kind of OBD2 or similar would be nice. I'm wondering what the tech does? Seems like since it's got fault code capability. It stands to reason that there's some way of getting to the computer. Mine is pre CPU, and a whole different brand altogether. But Kawasaki doesn't have a plug either I'd bet. Sure would simplify things though.

The guage I'm thinking about is a diagnostic guage. It sounds like you're looking for a hard mount guage. They have most everything in guages that're electronic these days. I'm sure that the oil pressure isn't any different. And supposedly the accuracy of the electrical versions of the guages are very reliable. I have no idea how the electrical version would communicate with the vehicle, to get that reading though. It would be the same as a car, I'm sure. So YouTube would probably have what you're looking for, to answer that question. The mechanical version plugs into the block, but it's a specific place. Each motor is different, so you'd have to find out where on yours would be best if you went that route. It's really a shame that these s×s manufacturers don't provide an access to the cpu. Something that you could hook up to a smartphone. You could monitor engine conditions, clear fault codes, change settings etc. But that would require spending as much as ten more dollars per unit lol. They could recoup any r&d cost on selling the app.

Yes, it's a analog dial type guage, on a 3'-6' hose. You can hold it in your hand, or lay it on the seat while driving if you like. For a long term solution, you'd want a dash mount guage instead of a light. Like I said, the only issue is where to connect it to the motor. As it'll be different for every motor.