kenfain

I think that's best. I'd find a way to check the oil pressure using an actual dial reading. Something that you can visually check as you drive. O'Reilly auto parts has a loan a tool program. Where you can probably find the necessary guage to check the pressure. Although you might have to buy an adapter. The only issue would be finding a suitable place to plug into the block. I'd also look for a Schrader valve on the fuel rail. That's where the fuel pressure guage goes. It will probably be at the very back if there is one. Not all fuel injection rails do. If you take it in for service, you should ask about where these items would plug in. Because I really doubt that'll be in the service manual. And you should know this information. It will eventually come in handy. If not for yourself, then I know it'll be appreciated here.

The way it sounds, with the light coming on while it's on an incline. I'm thinking oil pressure. I've heard complaints from other owners, about low oil pressure, even when they're relatively new. And this would definitely be more of a problem on a hill. Does the light go off after you get it settled back down on flat terrain?

You guys really should take the generous offer from fellow member @strike250 for the free manual. It might help to answer some of your questions about this machine.

Sounds like you'll have to check a few things to try to narrow the problem down. I'd start by checking fuel pressure, if there's an easy way to get to the fuel rail. Check it while driving as well. Next up would probably be whatever passes for a throttle position sensor. Of course if you can't do the pressure test, you could start with the throttle position sensor. But those seem most likely to me. Does it have any trouble codes showing?

Welcome to the forum! I've got an older mule 3010. That thing has always rattled since it was new. Mostly the trailer hitch, when the bar is installed. But I agree with Travis. If it bothers you then it's a dealer/warranty issue. When it needs to go back for the first scheduled warranty maintenance. I'd have them look at it then.

Welcome to the forum! There was some talk awhile back, about one of those Hisun models being a Yamaha rhino clone. It might be worth checking part numbers for the part itself. As well as engine specs. You might get lucky.

Welcome to the forum! I'd check for low oil pressure as well as the fuel system. There's a low oil pressure indicator, that would cause the engine light. I know of no such thing for fuel. If the engine is otherwise running good. As far as the heat issue, that might cause it. But I'll bet that you either have a temp guage, or a temp light. So that probably wouldn't pop the engine light. However, I hope you've seen the other threads about jumping the cooling fan. For full time fan operation. Whether you choose to go that way or not. You should at least be aware of what others have found to be best practice.

I have to admit, that it does sound like an internal problem. But you have to check out the easy stuff first. Like the fluid level both in the transmission, and the clutch. Low fluid levels in either, can cause shifting problems. On most transmissions there's an inspection plate, or a way to look inside without taking the transmission apart. Although it would still have to be removed from the vehicle. Internal problems are usually pretty easy to spot.

I can certainly understand that. It would be nice to get a look at it first. If it's a skimpy attempt, like one of those nearly useless auto parts store, car manuals. Then 75 bucks would be way overpriced. But if it's a full comprehensive shop service manual, it would still be a bit overpriced. Mine is for a mule, and it covers literally everything. It only costs 40 bucks at the high priced dealership. But if you keep the machine longer than a couple of years, it would eventually pay for itself. I have no idea which version that our fellow member is sharing. But I think that it'd be worthwhile to ask him.

I saw no mention of a procedure to clear the codes. And I've edited my previous post to reflect that. So presumably the codes will go away after the necessary repairs are made. What I saw of the owners manual gave very little information about the process. If you need an owner's manual, I saw that there's a thread floating around here about that. One of our members has generously offered to share what is likely a digital version.

The sensors aren't really necessary for a fuel injection. Nor does the fuel injection system even have to be electronic. I once owned a car that had a mechanical fuel injection system. It had less than a half dozen moving parts, and worked great! I miss that car. But they do the sensor thing for efficiency. So I guess that I can live with it. I could go either way, as long as there's a way to get fault codes. Otherwise it would be a nightmare to diagnose most stuff. It does make some things easier though. What I really don't like about today's vehicles. Is everything is so tightly packed. According to the information that I read. It sounded like the clock on the instrument cluster would blink all by itself, if it sensed a problem. You had to fix it to make the clock run normally. Actually interpreting the blinks and what they mean, was covered in a different part of the manual. So I have no idea how detailed the fault code chart is. There's not much to these things, so I wouldn't expect much. That could be a good thing though.

Glad to hear that you got it worked out! And thanks for the follow up on the ultimate solution. So many times, people will solve the problem on their own, and then just leave us hanging lol. Even more frustrating, is when you're searching for the identical problem that your machine has. Then find it in a thread that's several years old. And there's no record of the outcome. So congratulations, and thanks again!

Any updates?

Ouch! You could've probably ported the exhaust, and had a custom header made for that much lol.

It appears to be that the clock display will blink. You count the blinks. Each sequence means something different. I didn't read the specifics, but YouTube has videos. And the pdf download service manual appears to go into written detail, giving the different values. For a single, specific problem, you could probably find the stand alone information, without the manual. But I consider a full service manual to be a requirement for any, and all equipment that I own. Mostly because, after a few short years have passed. This type of information can become frustratingly scarce. It's money well spent. The way I see it, a piece of junk will soon find a new home away from me. The service manual can go with it. They're not expensive. Good riddance to both. But a solid, reliable piece of equipment will be around for years. A full, shop service manual is usually the first casualty on the list of things that are no longer available for a piece of equipment. Offered for only a surprisingly limited time. Some people rely on the downloadable version. I prefer a hard copy.

I kinda suspected that might be the case. Either way, it's a simple solution. And simple is always good. Thanks for sharing it with us.

A coil problem could cause it. I've also heard of one acting in a similar way, that had a clogged fuel return line. Or it could be as simple as a clogged vent gas cap. But I do believe that it's a fuel delivery problem. With everything else being replaced. It could easily be the sensor that controls the air/fuel mix, based on the throttle position. Since it runs good otherwise. But these things usually have trouble codes, so it shouldn't take guesswork. The trouble code tests are easy, and don't cost anything. So I'd start there.

It doesn't sound like they're too concerned about this issue. So I wouldn't expect much. You might need an alternate plan. Possibly repair the existing manifold? Edited to add that, it seems that it's become a non issue. Good luck!

What about the fuel return line? Did you clear that out when you had it apart? Or the crankcase ventilation? Is there a throttle position sensor on that thing? Either way, if its ECU controlled, there should be a way to get trouble codes. After all the things that you've done to it. It really sounds like a sensor problem though.

It isn't totally clear from your post. But if the unit you're looking at, has this condition. And the price reflects that. I'd contact a couple of different dealers and ask if they'd fix it for free.

Have you checked the gear oil level? What about shifting when it's not running? Or if you try to manually manipulate the linkage at the transmission?

Nice job on that fix! Thanks for sharing that. But what's the original design of the parking brake return. Shouldn't there already be a spring somewhere on the release?

That's good news! However, spark plugs usually go bad for a reason. It sounds like you have an underlying issue that still needs to be resolved. On the bright side of this, is the spark plug will give you an indication of what the issue is. By looking at how it's burning, you can tell what's going on there. If the problem comes up again, for the sake of long term engine health, and reliability, you'll need to find out why.

Have you checked the fluid level in the transmission, and the clutch?

Might be contained in the serial number. The location of that, is probably in that owners manual.