kenfain

Mine doesn't have bleed screws, so obviously you'd try that first. But if that doesn't work out, here's what I do. I use a twenty dollar funnel that's made for that purpose. It actually connects to the top of the radiator filler neck. Elevate the front of the vehicle around six inches. Then you just let it idle till the thermostat opens. Repeat that a couple times. Then top it off during, and after it cools. As a substitute, you could probably find a soda bottle to fit tightly into the hole, then tape it in...or something. As long as it can't, or won't fall out. Because that coolant will be HOT, and very messy if it's not tight. I've seen YouTube videos of people doing it this way. Personally I didn't have much luck using the soda bottle method. And since coolant needs to be changed periodically, I have several cars to maintain. So the funnel was a practical purchase. There's also an air compressor driven vacuum tool. By creating a light vacuum, and using the apparatus valving. You then allow coolant to replace itself, through the apparatus. Never used one, but it's an interesting idea. You could probably get one of those through the o'Reilly loan a tool program. Just a couple of ideas if the bleeder screws don't work out.

Does it have a hydraulic clutch?

There's several things that you can try. Like checking for blockage of the crankcase ventilation tube. Or the return fuel line. I assume that you've played with the air mix screw, beyond just setting it at two turns.

Welcome to the forum! Travis is absolutely correct about the manual. And as to your problem, it's possibly a sensor issue. Specifically, what would be a throttle position sensor. Although I have no idea what it's called on the mule. But it tells the throttle body how much gas, and air it needs. I say possibly, because it could easily be a combination of problems causing the issue. Or a wiring problem. Since i'm assuming that it's likely CPU controlled, you'll need to find the trouble codes.

Usually the crankcase ventilation tube comes up into the airbox. Sounds like blow by coming up through the crankcase ventilation. If it it's old and worn, some amount of blow by is pretty much normal. But oil being overfilled will cause it also. So if that's not the case. And it's not caused by being old, and just normal wear. Or if it's excessive. Then you'll need to check a few things. Starting with compression. To find the source of the blow by. Piston rings are the usual culprit.

What size winch? Mine is a 3000 pound winch, and it uses small battery cable wire. Same size wire as the mule has. Can't remember the exact guage.

I'd think that everything would be somewhat swirling around in any case. That's why I'd change the oil often. And to that end, I'd make it as easy as possible. That's why I suggested the fumoto valve. When you're ready to change the oil, just shut the warm engine down the night before, and open the valve. Next morning, close the valve, and fill er up. The fumoto has a hose attachment, so it's ready to go right into the bucket. No mess, no problem. As far as the engineers at Massimo...they're just trying to save a buck. Zero credit given for that. In fact, this forum is full of examples of their handiwork.

Sounds reasonable enough. But if the particles are in suspension. Won't they just flow right out with the used oil?

Well if it has a pump, then it certainly sounds like a pressure lubed engine. Regardless of what they say, if it doesn't have a proper filter. It will need more frequent oil changes. There's no getting around that. I certainly hope that it works out well for all your needs. But it will eventually need some kind of maintenance work. So I'd recommend you get a service manual, and/or a wiring diagram. Those things are scarce when you need them after a few years have gone by. Even the top manufacturers sometimes provide precious little of the critical information. And there's been many Massimo people here searching for this information. Although I think that it's mostly available. You have it to find, at a time when you really just need it then.

Wow, that's extremely unusual for it to be a gravity lubed engine. I'd expect it to be pressure lubed. Sorry for the misunderstanding, but I've never heard of that, on a s×s. They can get away with that on a lawn mower, because they're usually used on flat semi level ground, and typically stored in a garage. That's good information for you to know though. If you park on a hill, you'll be starting it semi dry. So care should be taken. Overnight parking especially. On a good note though. Necessary frequent oil changes will be much easier, and cheaper too. Get a fumoto valve to replace the drain plug. And it'll make it as easy as it can be.

When all this special coolant thing started many years ago. It started as an additive. Might've been the one you mentioned. I've never tried it, so I couldn't say what the benefits might be. Except to say that those water cooled racing 125cc dirt bikes were the target market. Mostly because of the design of their naturally undersized radiators. They run hot! I really don't think that a s×s would see any real benefits. Whichever coolant you choose, just remember to drain, and flush the system every 5 years or less. As long as you use the right type of coolant, the rest is mostly marketing. Most of that is about their anti corrosion, anti rust or whatever they're calling it. That's just marketing bs, because even with the best, highest priced stuff. It'll still need to be flushed regularly.

It's the type that's important. ethylene glycol is the most common. That's the green stuff. Although I'm sure it comes in other colors too. So you can look at the ingredients on the one he recommends. Then get the cheap version. Or you can get the full price stuff.

Yeah, it could easily be an obstruction from a broken part, jamming the whole works. I've got my suspicions about what's coming. But we won't know till we hear back from the op.

Finding the exact one that is actually made for your machine, by the manufacturer, might not be necessary. I've found that filters are highly interchangeable. For example, there's two different filters listed for the 05, 3010 mule. Different stock numbers. One is for the gas model, and the other is for diesel. I accidentally bought the gas model filter once. It fit my diesel just fine. Cars, and trucks are the same way. Over the years, I've found that a lot of filters will interchange. It's almost like there's three or four different thread sizes in sae, and the same thing for metric. Here's my suggestion; when you want to change the oil, you can remove the old filter. Then find a way to match the thread exactly. I'd probably use a large bolt. Take that bolt to Walmart, and match it with a filter that's common. Or something that you'll remember. Just measure the gasket side, so you can make sure you get one that will seat properly. Another idea, is a cross reference. WIX makes a lot of filters, and I'm pretty sure that there's a cross reference chart somewhere. Or try a spare filter for your car/truck. If the thread matches, and it'll properly seat, it'll work. You do have spares right? You might get lucky.

It's possible that the reason for two different struts could be the trans mule, or it might be for a factory cab. Either way, the difference would likely be the spring rate. So if you're using aftermarket springs. There shouldn't be a problem. I used c-clamps, and a large pair of slip joint pliers to compress mine.

Welcome to the forum! I'm not familiar with your machine, but I do know that most units these days are CPU controlled. Fuel injected, and the mix is determined by several things. So here's a question. Does your cat have an o2 sensor? If it does, won't that create fuel delivery issues?

The high dollar stuff that's specifically made for powersports, are generally for high rpm engines, like water cooled dirt bikes n such. They're special formulated to supposedly disperse heat better. Seems like they changed the boiling point, or something. I can't remember, but it doesn't apply to normal engines. Its supposed to make these engines run cooler. As I'm sure you're aware, regular coolant is only made to resist freezing, and of course rust. IIRC the benefit was only a few degrees, but while that difference might help in competition. Not so much on a trail ride. Just use the 50/50 automotive mix. Or if you're cheap like me. I get the full strength from o'Reilly's, and mix it myself.

Right now, North Texas is using hotels to house the evacuees. Pets welcome too! The generosity of those cities who have opened their arms to these evacuees is humbling. While liberals believe it's okay to burn the property of others. North Texans have welcomed their Brothers, and Sisters into their communities. Treating them like the family we all are. It's one of the things that sets us apart. May Almighty God, watch over those who felt the need to stay behind. And may He rebuild the lives of those who are about to lose so much!

The dual battery set up is still a great idea. Because the thing about high amp draw accessories, is that the motor needs to be running. Like when using a winch. I had a nice stereo in a vehicle once. Every time it hit a bass note, the needle would tank. Just keeping time with the music lol. Not hard to envision that a couple hours of listening to the radio while fishing...you might need that extra battery also. Only you know exactly what you have in mind for your build. But if you're going over a true 40 watt per channel stereo. Unless you have the dual battery. I'd keep an eye on that amp draw. --------------------------- I sidestepped all that by using a powered speaker. It's portable, and self contained. It'll run for hours. And it's got quality sound, that can be easily heard from a hundred yards away. It'll get so loud, that it can hurt your ears to walk over to turn it down. And it's much cheaper than an installed stereo. Mine was about $125. And its about the size of a milk crate.

There's an evacuation order for far Southeast Texas, and Southern Louisiana as well. They're opening evacuation shelters further North, some closer to me. Maybe the people further West on the coastline have decided that now would be a good time to visit relatives. I wouldn't want to take a chance, and stay in Houston right now.

Luckily you won't need bottle water. That's probably going fast. Seems like that and batteries are the first thing to go.

Plenty of no trespassing signs too. Just in case the Houston crowd decides to head North for a little camp out afterwards. If it gets a good piece of Houston, you can bet it'll affect prices, and availability of just about everything in your area. I live a few miles from Tyler. And I've stocked up on everything that I normally use anyway. Plus lots of gas. I could see the price of fuel going up in the next few days.

Travis, just looking at your list. It seems like it's more of a bug out checklist. Now that this storm is headed your way, if you're planning on staying put, I'd suggest that you change some priorities. Since you're a few miles away from the coast, there's no reason to leave. Instead you'll need to stock up on non perishable items. And if you have a generator, you'll need perishable food as well. The stores might not have everything in stock afterwards. Since Laura is scheduled to make landfall as a significant hurricane. I'd also have at least one good chainsaw handy. Along with fuel for it. In fact, I'd fill every car, and gas can I owned. Assuming that you're on municipal water, and not a water well. Fill every water container I own, and the bathtub too. There could be a disruption in service. The amounts you've given,are minimum amounts, and aren't for generous usage at home. As dishes have to be washed, and toilets flushed. Probably won't be any issues, but it's cheap insurance against the worst case scenario. I'd move my cars out from under any trees, and bring pets indoors too. And keep your powder dry, you might need that as well.

Just watch the amp draw. Those light bars really draw the power. Most of these machines don't put out an abundance of extra amps of power.

It should say that it's for mass air flow sensors specifically. Some cleaners are for cleaning the throttle body through the intake. I'm not familiar with the one you mentioned. I always use the cheap stuff. It's right in the title on the can. Yours might be in the fine print.