kenfain

I should also add. Only the mass air flow cleaner is suitable for this. Do NOT use carb cleaner, electrical contact cleaner etc. The proper cleaner is cheap enough. And the others will leave residue. Residue is as bad as crud. What's not cheap is a new mass air flow sensor. They're very sensitive. Not necessarily delicate, but sensitive. And expensive in most cases.

It should be somewhere near the breather. Before the throttle body. And should be the only electronics there, in that part of the system. So just follow the tube, looking for wires. There's a very real possibility of contamination on these things. You need to be very careful not to touch any part of the element. Doing that will probably ruin it. So...no rags. You should get some mass air flow cleaner. It's available at the auto parts, and probably Walmart too. You carefully remove it, and hose it down. Holding it element up, or sideways, so any loosened crud doesn't flow onto the element. Making sure not to let anything touch the element. No wiping, not even if it looks like it needs it. Then let it dry for a few minutes. Then reinstall. The whole process takes about the same amount of time as it took to write it. Probably be a good time to do the car too lol. It's that easy.

Nice! If I add anything else to my electrical system. I'll have to use a power distribution box. Mine came with a positive battery terminal, that had an add on lug on it. Unfortunately, I've taken the lazy advantage of using it to power several things. Electrically speaking, it's not a concern. But it's very ugly.

If it is CPU controlled, which sounds likely. I'd also check the sensor that controls the air/fuel mix. Give the element a good cleaning. Using the approved cleaning method of course. Find the reason for that black plug. And you'll likely solve most, if not all of your problem. You just have to find out what's happening to the air/fuel mix.

As long as we get some much needed rain. I really don't care which storm brings it. I do hope that those in the path of both hurricanes are prepared.

A smoke test would probably be the best, and quickest way to find the leak. If that is the actual problem. You can Google it if you're not familiar with it. That would be much easier than a typed explanation. There's some pretty cheap, and easy homemade smoke tester instructional videos available also. They don't require a lot of money to build. But you would need basic skills, and a few tools.

If it makes landfall in Texas as a category 1, I'd be a bit surprised. Since it's tracking shows it going across quite a bit of land in Mexico. That'll make it harder to regroup. Probably all depends on the water temperature, and how fast it moves. But you're absolutely correct in being prepared.

Sounds like that might be the issue. What's the price for the sensor? How much trouble to get to it? Is it something that can be tested first? Either way, I'd start by looking for obvious wiring damage. Because these things take a beating from trail debris. And because that's where I almost always start, since it's cheap, and easier than replacing stuff. Though I wouldn't spend much time on it. Then I'd replace the sensor if it's cheap. Test it if you can, or if it's not cheap. Because if that's not the problem, then it might get complicated. You mentioned reading the code. Is this vehicle OBD2 ?

Obviously you'll want to make certain that it's not anything leaking. It's possible that the add ons are bottling up the fumes. Keeping it contained. If that's the case, then before I added length to the exhaust. I'd try to seal the cab. Mine has a thick, insulated poly plate attached to the undercarriage, beneath the seat. And there's insulation under the seat, against the motor side of the seat box. This is all pre fab insulation, for a cab that I don't have. I needed it for the excessive noise that my diesel engine makes. It's made to keep out cold, but I can't imagine any fumes coming through it. It wouldn't be hard to duplicate using readily available materials. Adding length to the exhaust might possibly increase back pressure, or other unintended negative effects. I'd try that as a last resort.

Sounds like it's going to go out permanently one of these days. I'm not a mechanic, but it sounds like the throttle position sensor should be looked at.

Just looking at the parts, it looks simple enough. If you decide to go with that option. Please document, and post as much of the project here as possible. We really like this sort of thing.

This rare double incoming storm really doesn't present any serious problems. Since neither is expected to be that severe when they make landfall. It's extremely rare, that they'd come in at the same time. But if they combined, there's absolutely no reason to be concerned. As the wind from the storms would play against, rather than with each other. Also the outflow would cause a cooling of the surrounding water. That would further weaken the other storm. I'll gladly take the rain though.

See if you can get a shop service manual for your machine. A complete manual will be valuable to your future service issues. That information, if available, would be invaluable here, for future service of members vehicles. Especially since the factory has shown little interest in this level of customer service.

Glad to hear that you got this problem fixed. Seems like a lot of people are moving towards a full time fan. I certainly hope that it permanently solves the issue. Let us know how it works out.

Glad to hear that you got it sorted out. I'd be curious how a tech could've missed that. Good job though. I'd say you definitely earned that 5th of your favorite brand!

5 amp fuse can't have much on it. I wonder if it's for the instrument panel? There could easily be a short inside the panel circuit. That might explain why it's so difficult to find. Any easy way to get a look at the circuitry of that board? Both sides would be best, looking for scorched areas. Or anything that looks out of ordinary. Just a long shot on this. But with low hours, and being an electrical problem. I'd think that it would be something like that. Unless you've taken it through high water, or drug the undercarriage across something. It seems unlikely that it would be anything else really. I'm guessing that the warranty is no longer in effect?

I'm sure there's a limiter. I've had my mule on a robust downhill plunge. Got er up to a whopping 40 mph. Got a little scary, because this thing drives like a tractor. It's probably limited for a good reason.

It could easily be something simple, like a blockage. Since it starts, and runs good. Check the basics first. Crankcase ventilation, fuel return line, breather.

If it's an exact replacement, then it's pretty straightforward. Prep is everything though. New mounts, new rubber. New water pump, rebuild starter, alternator, depending on what you want. The actual swap needs plenty of labeling, documentation. The whole thing will look different after a week or two, when you try to reassemble it.

Any idea what the "F5" fuse is for? Whats the amperage rating? If it dies after about 15 minutes. Does that mean that it'll die in around 2 minutes, or so, if you park it after 12 minutes, and let it idle for 2? Not trying to be funny. Just trying to understand if it's related to electrical load, or maybe a short. I'm guessing that it's slow blow fuse. And most blown fuses are from a short to ground. Since a voltage spike in a vehicle's 12v system is practically unheard of. A short is pretty much the only way to blow a fuse. That's not to imply that it's a simple fix. But you'll absolutely have to know what is on that circuit.

Glad you got it worked out!

That's true, and it's exactly why I ask people to please post what ended up being the ultimate solution to their problem.

Never heard of it, but certainly seems possible. So, is it starting like it should?

If you feel that it's as clean as it's going to be. Then put it back together and try it out. Let us know if there's any improvement.

I'd hose it down inside, and out with carb cleaner. Pull the bowl off, and hit the needle and seat. Along with all the holes I could get to, including the jets. Then put it back on, and see if it helped. Might cure the problem, might not. But since I'm sure that you haven't got a carb kit yet. That's the way I'd go. In fact, I'm not only cheap... I'm stubborn too. So that's exactly what I always do first. Carb kits are mostly gaskets anyhow. Those are easily made, should you happen to rip one.