kenfain

Sounds like a carburetor rebuild might be a good idea. That might not fix it. But if there's an over abundance of fuel. That's not good. And could be caused by several things. It could also cause the problem, but at this point, you never know. Fuel is supposed to come out of the jets, and go immediately into the engine, and immediately burned. Fuel that's just loitering around, is looking for trouble. So I'd address this first. Don't know about Chinese replacement carbs for the mule. But for my Honda small engines, they're cheap enough to not bother with a rebuild. Carburetor rebuilds are best done by the pros for best results. But the kits are cheap enough to give it a try. That plug looks pretty much normal, not perfect, but about what I'd expect. Although it's probably past time for replacement. If the others look the same then there's no internal engine problems. But that doesn't mean that you have fire, when the problem is present. If the carb issue is repaired, and the problem is still there. You'll still need to check for proper spark.

You could try having all but one bolt already removed from the breather. Or tape it down temporarily. Or using some foam as a temporary breather. You could even warm it up by letting it idle for awhile. You'll probably need to have an empty bed for this. Because you'll need to pull it back as far as it'll go, and tie it back. That prop bar won't give you enough working room. Pre install a couple of C clamps, and have a tie rope ready. After getting it to temp, just pull in, tie the bed back, and pull the minimum number of breather bolts. You should still have plenty of time for doing the tests. Although probably not all at once. Might take a few tries.

I feel your pain. Ever since I moved to the country, I've had to learn ways to do things alone. I'm assuming that you mean having access to the ignition switch. If that's the case a remote starter switch should do the trick. At least for this project. I'm sure you can make one easy enough. Unless you think that you'd need it enough to justify buying one. Or possibly remove the back screen for a reach over the seat access. I'm not sure just exactly how your engine is situated. Mine is mounted sideways, directly behind the cab. Remove the screen, and the bed. You'd have easy access from the seat. Back to the carb... when it's not starting, have you manually operated the linkage while looking into the carb? It should deliver a healthy squirt of fuel. Or try starting fluid. If the fluid works, then you can be fairly certain that it's fuel related.

Have you tried Travis's suggestion? You'll need to narrow it down to a single issue. Then work that issue. I doubt that it's a compression problem. So you should focus on the other two for now. If it has a carburetor, then checking for gas is easy. If it's injected, it's more complicated, since you'll be working on it while it's hot. Mine is diesel, so it's obviously injected. And TBH, I really don't know when the gas mule went to FI. So if it's a FI system, I'd start with electrical. Pull a plug wire, and check for spark. Do it when it's hot, and is demonstrating the no start problem. It's essential here, that you use a spark tester, that'll show how much power the spark has. You can't go by the color for this test.

Keep us posted on any progress. Good luck!

If you have any reason to suspect that flywheel is the problem. Then it will need a proper inspection. That cover needs to be removed. The only thing that you can really check through the starter hole, is for missing flywheel teeth. And even that is easier with the shroud removed. However, the missing teeth, if that's the problem here, would most likely be right there where the flywheel is presently indexed. And should be easily seen through the starter hole. That's why I asked if you have any basis for the flywheel being the problem. Removing the spark plugs will allow you to rotate the engine. Allowing for flywheel inspection.

Have you tried to manually move the flywheel? Is it loose?

Why do you suspect the flywheel? Has it been damaged?

Have you tried jumper cables?

Do you know where the actuator is? If you find that, it's a simple process to bypass. If it's actuated by being open, then you can just remove it, or pull the wire/wires. If it's a closed switch then you just connect the wires, to complete the circuit. Most of the switch bypass that I've done, have been pretty evenly divided between the two methods. In your situation, bypassing the neutral safety switch. I'd look for the switch somewhere around the shift linkage. Obviously it'd be better to fix the problem, than bypass the safety switch.

Are you sure there's enough voltage at the starter? A clunk sounds like the starter bendix has engaged, but nothing more. That could be a bad starter, or a cable not delivering enough power. I'd also make sure the negative cable has good contact. Is there any corrosion in or on the cables? I'd test for voltage drop in the cables. Since you're replacing the starter, it should be easy to get to the cable for testing. Probably nothing, but it's a good idea to check it occasionally. Since it's possible for a cable to look perfectly fine. While having corrosion inside. It's a simple test, usually done with a multi meter.

Pumping through the existing pump, could be possible. But it would seem to somewhat defeat the gains, of using the external pump. My thinking on this, would be that the vanes on the existing pump, would be a drag on the newly created, higher flow system. Eliminating the old pump, however, would create it's own problems. Using both pumps simultaneously, seems like the most likely scenario. Don't know what kind of gains would be achieved though. It might help, or it might create unintended consequences. Like pushing the system pressure too high. I think that the whole concept has potential though. If it can be done easily, then give it a try. It might work, and I don't think that it'll be a problem. I'd expect it to help the cooling system somewhat. My guess is, that it'll either help a small amount, or there'll be no improvement. If it could be used with an auxiliary radiator though...that'd be even better! In the cooling system world. These problems are solved by a bigger radiator core, or a bigger cooling fan. Or as I suggested, an auxiliary radiator. Pumping faster, or more volume wouldn't achieve much more cooling power. Since the hot coolant isn't exposed to the radiator long enough. That's why you sometimes see those off road desert race trucks. With an extra radiator mounted in the bed.

Glad you got that part worked out. About that ignition switch test. There's probably a YouTube on it. They all pretty much test the same way. Just takes a multi meter. And you test each position for continuity. You could just replace it, but only if you're absolutely certain that it's bad. Every time I think that I have a bad switch. It always turns out to be something else.

That could cause some of your problems. That needs to be sealed.

If it's specifically listed for your model. You should be okay. I'm assuming that you're trying to lift the vehicle? On most of these machines, there's lots of hard points that would need to be moved for a substantial lift. Things like frame tubes, and built in skid plates. Places where the drive shaft, or axles come through the frame. The manufacturer knows that it needs ground clearance. And it's typically close to maxed out for that vehicle. If there's no conflict there, and the vehicle is listed as being a fit. Then there shouldn't be a problem. Especially if it's a reputable manufacturer, or vendor.

It needs to be something dense. Air by itself won't work. Just use the aerosol can. As long as you use something that's not flammable, it'll be okay. What you're listening for is the idle immediately smoothing out temporarily. Use the spray to pinpoint the problem. A smoke test is much more efficient.

Try an alternator/starter shop. They do upgrades to automotive alternators for a lot less than that. So guys can run the huge stereo amplifiers. I think it's just resistors and stuff. But it's worth a try, since even with the dual battery system. You'll still need the extra amperage.

I would've preferred to have the kubota diesel. Much better design. Although I have no idea how durable it is. Or what kind of product support is offered by the manufacturer. I drove one for a few days at work. It has a much better layout of the controls, power steering, three forward speeds, instead of two. Tractor style stomp pedal for locking the rear differential. And the gas guage is on the dashboard.

Welcome to the forum! I would advise that you have the stock starter rebuilt. An aftermarket starter isn't as solid as the one that typically comes in a machine from the factory. And the rebuild is significantly cheaper than a new OEM quality starter. Plus the fact that it's absolutely guaranteed to fit perfectly. The ignition switch is an easy test, and should be an easy replacement. The transmission sounds like the hardest part. And will probably have to come out. Check the linkage on the outside of the transmission first, as it's possible that something came apart there on the outside. To get a look at the inside. There's probably an inspection plate, but unless it's a slipped pin or something easy. It'll have to be out for disassembly. Which would be necessary if it's a broken tooth on a gear. But that seems unlikely, since it's two gears that're affected. Transmissions aren't complicated, and they're pretty generic in their construction. So any transmission shop could do the work. If you don't have the skill, or confidence to tackle it. But you'd probably have to take it in completely removed from the vehicle. Do not take it apart unless you are going to fix it. Transmission shops charge a premium, if it comes in disassembled. Drain it , and open up the inspection plate, and look inside first. Like I said, it might just be a pin has fallen out. Pay close attention to the shifting forks, as it sounds a bit like it might be the problem. Parts will likely be hard to find. But that's not to say impossible. Travis is very resourceful in finding those hard to find parts.

I've often wondered why more people haven't done this, or at least add a manual switch. Given the number of people who have overheating problems. It seems like a logical next step. If it continues to work out for you. You should consider making a step by step how-to for the process. And share it with the forum. So others can solve this issue, should they want to go that direction. Besides, we love projects with pictures.

Great job! Doesn't sound like we could add anything. You got this. Good luck on this project. It sounds like the linkage still needs a slight tweak. Thanks for the follow up, and welcome to the forum!

Travis makes a couple of good points. Weak spark can cause your problem also. Another possibility is the alcohol content in fuel. It can be hard on fuel systems. And cause problems. Especially if it's at 10% or more. Some machines are more affected than others. Some areas use a higher content. So I'd get a spark tester, that's made to see how far the spark will jump. They're not expensive. But just seeing if it's a blue spark isn't enough. Test all plugs, and wires. Pay attention to which plug came from which cylinder. That information might be needed. Good, clean, normal plugs. Good hot spark. If you have both of these, then it almost has to be a fuel issue. Of course there's other possibilities. But given the low hours, and condition of that machine. Most of the other possibilities seem unlikely.

Welcome to the forum! 1. Find out exactly where the noise comes from. Then disable that, by pulling a wire. Or maybe it's easier to pull the wire at the transmission. I wouldn't cut the wire, unless I knew for certain that it wouldn't cause other electrical problems. Or... 2. And this is what I use. We have all sorts of equipment at work. They all beep. But due to safety concerns, we're not allowed to completely disable the back up alarms. So the first thing I do to them. Is to apply a strip of 2 inch tape across the face of the beeper. Any kind of tape will work. It will quieten them down considerably. A little beeping isn't hard to get used to, and it's not a bad idea. Sometimes they need 2 strips. You can keep going till you can't hear them at all. I would recommend that you leave a hint of beeping though.

Have you thought about running a small generator instead. Because there's no way that you can pull that many amps without the engine running anyway. So why not a small generator? They're fairly quiet, and would be multi purpose too. Similar price, easier installation.

It's a sad day for country music fans worldwide. As well as the country music community. A country legend has passed. And I feel like I've lost a piece of myself. I grew up with his music, playing in the background of my youth. A soundtrack of better, less complicated times. One of the best fiddlers in country music, and probably best known for his song, The devil went down to Georgia. It's been said that if anyone could beat the devil in a duel of fiddles. It would be Charlie Daniels. He was a true American, and a fine musician. Although he's gone, his music lives on. Thanks for the years of talent that you shared. And thanks for the memories. "God bless America, and God bless music city." And God bless the CDB. Rest in peace Charlie Daniels.