kenfain

TBH, I had no idea that anyone made a 4wd electric buggy. Very interesting stuff. I was hoping the thread exposure would bring along someone that understands a bit about how these work. What little expertise I have, is with mechanical stuff. Please post details about any progress, so that others can benefit from what you find. Especially if you find a wiring diagram. Those things are scarce as hens teeth. There's so little information out there about these Hisun models. Good luck!

For the desert, you'll want something fast, with independent suspension. Definitely not a utility vehicle. Slow and clunky, isn't what you want in the desert. And I'm not sure what they call the hot rod side×side. But it'd be the Polaris RZR type of thing. Just do yourself a favor, and buy a name brand. Buy once cry once. Anything less, and your just buying trouble. And the desert is no place for a mechanical breakdown. Personally, I'd want a dune buggy, because what you're looking for is very pricey. And for similar money, a dune buggy would be much more versatile. With cheaper parts, better parts availability, as well as better, quicker resale. With less depreciation. Rollovers would be carefree, with no worries about breaking expensive plastic panels. Plenty of power to pull your buddy's broken machine back to the trailer lol.

The switch is just an on off switch? If it's that simple, there should be a voltage difference between on, and off. Being electrically activated, I'd expect there's a relay involved somewhere. Look in the fuse panel. Relays are notorious for being troublesome. The good news is they're cheap, and easy to diagnose, and replace. Sorry for all the guesswork, but I'm not familiar with your machine. Mine is much older, and a totally different brand altogether. I'm thinking that it sounds like it's electrical, based on the weird dash readout. Hopefully this forum activity will alert someone more familiar with your unit?

Have you tested the switch itself for proper function? I know that I said differential earlier. Don't really know what I was thinking. It probably handles 4wd at what would be the transfer case on a truck. Or it's possible that there's only the transmission. But if you can see where the hi/lo 4wd actuator goes. It'll probably be close by. If you follow the wire from the switch, you might have some luck. But it could easily be a grounded circuit, so you need to chase those wires if at all possible. Sometimes when I don't know what a part looks like. I'll Google for that part for sale. If it pops up, now you know what it looks like. And that makes it much easier to find. It's a long shot in this case. But sometimes it works.

Dunno if you've ever done any winching, but they draw a lot of amps while under load. So its a good idea to always winch with the engine running. Otherwise you might be walking home.

Is it a manual shift? Or electronic? If it's mechanical, then check the cable through to the front differential. See if you can manually operate the linkage going into the differential If it's electronic, then you're probably going to have to disconnect the shifter, and see if you can activate the lever going into the differential by hand.

A mule is supposed to be better dressed. Should at least have a hat on.

That would be the best long term solution. Even if the mule pulled the wagon, it still uses a tiny motor, pulling a light duty drive train. So for long term, you'll need a small tractor or similar. Don't know how durable, or how hard it is to find parts. But those tiny utility trucks are pretty popular lately. If it's Japanese, it's probably a pretty good value. If it's rated to pull the kind of weight that you have. It would be an option. Last I heard, they were about $6 grand, in a used, but really nice condition. Cheaper than a good used tractor.

Sounds like a hot sweaty job right there. Especially at this time of year. But interesting at the same time. I spent some time in the swamp in Louisiana. Not at all what I was expecting. It was nice, in its own way. When you get back, and decide to tackle that project we'll be here. There's no timeline, it's all on your schedule. Stay safe.

Let that mat sit there for a couple weeks. See if you even need it fastened. If you don't use the dump, there should be no reason to need it fastened. And it might just form fit and be fabulous. I guarantee that you'll need to get under that mat. Especially if you fasten it down permanently. I put a plywood bottom in and old wagon that I pulled behind a four wheeler. That was what I used before the mule. That plywood bottom didn't need to come out often, but it did need to come out.

Sorry, I guess it was us that left you hanging then. All drum brakes are pretty much the same. In your case, I'd pull the drums first. That can be a lot of trouble right there. Typically they've been on there for years and sometimes the drums are stuck on. And it can easily be the hardest part. So I'd pull the drums now, they should be easier to do when you get ready to do the work. So pull the drums, and find a YouTube instructional that looks like your own setup. It's not really critical. The parts you'll definitely need, are the brake shoes. Hopefully not, but possibly new drums. And if a wheel cylinder is leaking, youll need a new set. They are rebuildable, but replacement is best. Everything that gets replaced, gets replaced on both sides. Or you'll have uneven braking. This is important! Buy new brake fluid, plenty of brake cleaner. Be certain that it's non chlorinated. The chlorinated is toxic, and requires specialized PPE safety stuff. And a couple of cardboard boxes to slide under the works to catch fluids. I'd want all new hardware also. However that's not absolutely necessary. But it does make things easier. Because sometimes old springs cause uneven brake reset. That can cause wierd brake pedal feel, to uneven stopping, to a single wheel locking up when braking. But usually it isn't a problem, so if it's hard to find, or you're on a budget. You could probably skip that. You'll definitely want to replace the fluid though. That's a generic job also. Plenty of examples on YouTube. And doesn't absolutely have to be done at the same time. To get started, you'll need to pull the drums to expose the internals on both sides. Do one side at a time. Because on the reassembly, you WILL need to look at how it goes together. So leave one side unmolested, for reference. This can be critical so don't take it lightly. Hose everything down with non chlorinated brake cleaner. I buy the cheap stuff at Walmart. Three cans should be plenty. Slide a cardboard underneath the assembly, and hose it down. Everything about this job is messy. Plenty of cardboard, and maybe something more protective, if you're trying to keep a pristine garage floor. Pre planning is important for this. Take pictures as you remove each part. Because there's not many parts, but they're layered. Some parts go over, some under. And there's subtle differences between left, and right. So pay close attention, and take a few pictures. You'll know when you have it right, because of how it fits together. It's really not that hard, certainly a beginner could do it. Especially with the help of YouTube. But it could take most of the day, especially if you have problems. Or get side tracked. You might also need to source parts that you don't have. So don't do this in the driveway behind a car that you might need. You might have to order parts from the internet. So plan ahead on where you do this. It might be there awhile, or it might take a couple hours. Unless you go all new parts, and have everything you need, expect that it won't be a quick job. I've spent a half day doing cars, when the auto parts was just right there. So prepare for a small project, and be happy if it just falls together. But understand that sometimes you'll find other problems too. Like bearings that are bad. Or leaking seals. Don't worry about getting in over your head. It really isn't that complicated. Although I might not have painted a rosey picture. I try not to over simplify. I want you to know what you're getting into. You'll be glad you saved the $800.00. But you'll understand why it costs so much. It takes lots of time. We'll be here if you have questions. It'll come straight to my email after this. Welcome to the forum, and Good luck!

I've never heard of vapor lock on the older mules. Vapor lock wasn't very common in older cars, but it certainly did happen. Seems like it was mostly a model specific thing. As some models were prone to it. And it might be common across a lot of examples of that particular model. Others never had a problem. On one old truck of mine, the fix was using one of those spring loaded wooden clothes pins. Just clipped it to the gas line near the carb. It worked as a heat sink. I'm sure that you've looked up the cause. So some possible solutions might include. Trying a cooling fan after stopping. Reducing the cooling time. Try idling the engine for a couple of minutes before shutting it down when it's hot. Reroute the gas line away from hot manifold. Or if its a metal gas line, you could replace it with the rubber stuff. Or try insulating the gas line. Have you tried pulling the breather, and looking down the carburetor throat to see if it gets a good squirt of gas when it's doing this?

Never heard back from the OP? Seems he just left us hanging. To anyone trying to work on drum brakes for the first time. Always work on one side at a time. Leaving the other side intact, you'll have something to look at, and compare to, if you get confused about the assembly. And try to take a couple of pictures of the assembly before you start to take it apart.

I like the idea of the stall mat. But if the mule is left out in the weather, then I think water will definately cause problems with rust underneath the mat. If it's kept under a roof, then I think it'll be okay. As long as you can easily pull the mat out. So you'd need some kind of quick connect type fastener. Because you'll need a way to pull that mat out. You'll occasionally need a way to clean under it. Or to let it dry if it gets wet. But there's always the possibility that if it's heavyweight rubber. That it'll stay in place. No fasteners needed. Mine has the OEM poly bedliner. It works well enough.

You didn't say if it's 4wd. So I'd like to add, that if it's 4wd. that you lube the front diff often. At least once a month. Lube it by driving it in 4wd. Do NOT do ANY turning on pavement, while in 4wd. EVER! Can't stress that enough. I won't even turn mine on hard pack dirt while engaged. Disengage the 4wd. before any turns, unless you're actually in the mud. If you want to lube the front differential on concrete. Do it in a straight line. A quarter mile or so per month is plenty. I use 4wd. only when I see that I'll actually need it. Then disengage immediately after. Don't wait till wheels are spinning to engage the 4wd. do it before you hit the slop. Following this guideline will make the front drive last indefinitely. Otherwise, those delicate, expensive, parts can get damaged. Stay safe and good luck!

Welcome to the forum! Mid grade gas, or low grade preferably the non ethanol would be best. Definitely not hi grade. That's for performance engines, and it might seem counterintuitive, but it won't help, and will definitely cost a lot more. And might make it not run as good. Non ethanol is a much bigger issue. Lots of people have problems with ethanol. Some areas allow more of it in gas, than others. So if that's your area, you'll want to be especially careful. But most areas have a source for non ethanol. It'll still run just fine with ethanol, lots of people do, and if that's all you have. It's more of a cumulative effect, but it's better not to have it. It seems to gum up the works a bit on some buggies. Motor oil is determined by outside temperature, and operating practices. So it depends on the season, what area you live, and how you use a given piece of equipment. In the case of a utv, they're not typically driven that hard, so it's more about outside temperatures, in your area. Thicker oil where I live in semi perpetual summer. Thinner where there's actually seasons. Multi viscosity is how they cover all the bases. It's neither critical, nor rocket science. So unless you're in an extreme environment. Its not a major issue. The lower 48 typically have something around 30wt. Or maybe 40wt. in summer. And usually its a multi weight version. Find out what a similar machine uses. Go with that, keep it changed, when it gets dark. Can't help you on the gear oil, that would depend on the actual differential. Probably gear oil, but it could be transmission fluid for all I know. These new machines are creatively designed nowadays. I do know that the seals around ALL the shafts in ANY machine can dry out with lack of use. So when you drive it. Stay close, till you're sure you won't start hemorrhaging fluids. A few drops would be normal for a machine that's sit for awhile. It might clear up after a few drive cycles. As the seals absorb fluid. Or so I'm told. Mine always had to be changed, as they always kept leaking. Good luck!

Someone more computer literate than me, would have to set up the whole thing. But let's not kid ourselves, you'd be the main contributor. You've got serious search skills.

I see a lot of people here who need parts for vehicles that are obsolete. Having been originally bought at places like tractor supply. And are no longer made. These vehicles were made by a manufacturer that likely made several other brands. Might the parts for the other brands still be available? And will they interchange? Even if they don't interchange with currently available parts. It would be helpful to know the original interchangeability. To make sourcing used parts easier. I'd like to see a forum database of this information. A couple of charts ought to do it. We're seeing quite a few people looking for parts sourcing for stuff that really isn't that old. Yet no longer made. Would there be any interest in having, and maintaining, and consolidating this information? It would have to be maintained, just to keep it concise, and uncluttered. Easy to understand, and navigate. The members could contribute, but ultimately it would be the staff that would have to organize the information.

I'd start by comparing major components, like the engine, differentials, body style, and such. To major Chinese brands. Don't really know the big ones. But maybe hisun. I'm sure there's several. Then move on to briefly look at other countries like India. I think they make popular, cheap tractors like mahindra. Just stands to reason that they wouldn't ignore the popular UTVs.

Those heat wraps probably aren't made to get too wet. Not that I think it would hurt the wrap, but it's likely not in the design parameters. The amount of moisture that they see in their intended use, would be quickly dissipated by the exhaust heat. No idea though, whether it would hold moisture in your intended use. But I would use insulation on the floor in addition to, or instead of. There's paint like coatings, likely ceramic, and there's asbestos substitutes, like rock wool. That ones for housing I think. But I know for a fact that there's automotive heat shield insulation out there. And likely there's something that'll be moisture, and drainage/evaporation friendly. I would say to use a combination of things. Including carpet floor mat. Cut from scrap carpet. Ceramic tile under the floor mat, plywood, etc. Till you get what you need. FWIW, I work in the carpet industry. And if I'm going to be on the forklift all day. I'll take 5minutes, and custom cut a carpet floor mat. That forklift gets hot. Carpet works well, and it's disposable. And since it's a brand new, clean mat. It's quite luxurious lol.

If you don't find what you're looking for, and you've tried to contact the manufacturer, there's always an alternative. Albeit somewhat time consuming and difficult. Typically these types of machines are not actually manufactured by the company who's name is on them. Instead they'll source from a larger manufacturer. Then assemble the parts and put their name on it. So find out who actually made it.

There are UTVs for commercial use. Land pride, Toro, and a few others come to mind. I have no idea how durable they are. But I do know that they're not cheap. Because they use them mostly on golf courses, and sprawling campuses, the price is bumped up to reflect their wealthy potential owners. I've looked at a couple of these when I bought my mule. I didn't see anything to justify the 20% price difference. That value would presumably be in long life span, and repair ability. The UTV industry has gotten steadily more expensive, and specialized, with emphasis being mostly on sporty, and not as many offerings in utility. With this in mind, it makes sense to try and use what you have. But not to purchase what would only be a slightly larger unit. Because the weight your pulling will always be more than a small all purpose vehicle is rated for. Best case, it would be the upper limit. It's never a good idea to have the towed load outweigh the towing vehicle by that large of a margin. Unless it's purpose built, with specially beefed up brakes, and powertrain. Like a tractor trailer. The tractor has huge braking components, and powertrain to compensate for the heavy load. If you're buying something, get a small 4wd tractor with a removable loader, and turf tires. Then you have something that is more useable, having better versatility and the amount of implements you have for it increases that versatility. That will give it good resale value also. With probably a similar price point, if not cheaper. Especially if you find a used one. A specialized UTV probably won't appeal to many for resale. and will sit unsold for awhile. The small tractor wouldn't sit there with a sign on it very long. However, if you've considered all these points, and still remain firmly in the UTV market for your own reasons. My advice, based on real experience, would be the kubota diesel. Great power, proven performance, large dealer network for unlimited parts, and service. I drove an older kubota 9000 gas model for a week, several years ago. I really liked it. There were many useable features that my mule doesn't have.

Welcome to the forum! Is this for full time pulling? Or, as needed? Or just a one time thing? Does it have to be a full water tank? A half a tank would probably make all the difference. Since water is so heavy. However I really don't think you'll hurt the mule just to hook up the trailer, and give it a careful pull around the parking lot. Let the mule tell you what it thinks. By that, I mean to listen to the strain on the motor. Feel the amount of pull that it takes. If it's having to give all its got, that's too heavy. If it doesn't want to move after a reasonable amount of throttle, don't force it. Because if it still hasn't moved, there's your answer. Because actually forcing it to pull something that's way too heavy, might cause a catastrophic breakdown. With a beefier vehicle, it would just spin the tires. You can't count on that from the mule. Components like axles and such aren't cheap. So you have to ease into it. But on pavement, or hardpack dirt, it might just roll out behind you. You never know till you try. I see the park maintenance doing stuff like that with the utv that they have. My thinking is that #3600 pounds is too much for anything more than just a very occasional use. I'd find a way to do a half tank, and just use more fill ups. Because I'm very sure that the brakes aren't sufficient to stop that much weight very easily. And any kind of incline would probably have a less than desirable outcome, whether you were going up or down. And in any case, would cause premature engine fatality. Especially since it's way over recommended capacity. But the real answer for all around success in your case would be a small pickup truck, or small tractor.

That sounds like a rewind. I'd think that it wouldn't need anything more complicated than brushes. But I'm sure that you've looked into it completely. So we'll take your assessment as the end of it. Besides that, we're way off topic here. So keep us updated on any progress. And good luck!

When dealing with electric motors, I prefer to use an electric motor shop. Unless its ridiculously cheap, and a guaranteed fit. I'll have it fixed. Motors are typically easy to fix, and the cost is usually cheaper than new. And it's a guaranteed fit everytime.