kenfain

It sounds like you're talking about obstructions like maybe the roll cage in the way? On some buggies, just like on some cars. The engine is removed from the bottom. Either way, I'd fully expect that the engine could be removed as an entire single piece. Because I guarantee that's how it went in. Might have to remove the complete powertrain as one piece. But that's even better!

I base my opinion on the fact that everything is otherwise working properly. With only a little internal noise. I just can't see it being anything serious. Left alone for awhile though, and it could cause other problems. But I'm neither an expert nor a mechanic.

You might change your mind once you price it out. But I still think that it'll just be a pin. Or a keeper of some sort has slipped off. Be a shame to spend $300.00 only to need a new pin, and circlip.

Sounds like one of those things that you learn the hard way. But on the bright side, it's learned now. When I'm doing a test drive, I usually drive it like I stole it. So I know its limitations, and what it's capable of. I'll bet there's a few parts that are pressed on, in that assembly. Since you've got time, you might want to find out exactly what you're dealing with, before you start. It probably isn't anything that will actually require a total rebuild. My guess would be a keeper, or pin of some sort has come loose. That's the most common source of this type of internal noise. Although it could just as easily be a bearing. You might need a good automotive machine shop to complete the work. So it'd be good to know this beforehand. So you can price out the machine work between the machine shop, or the dealership mechanic. And to also determine if the machine shop can accept these tiny parts. I think you'll find that hardened gears are price prohibitive, and best reused. And are likely undamaged in the slightest. You'll need bearings, and seals though. As well as the damaged part of course. But I don't think that I'd pre purchase the whole thing just yet. That money would probably better spent on new belts, hoses, and filters.

I fully understand that sometimes there's other priorities. No project needs to be hurried anyway. Most of yours will be time spent in labor. If you decide to proceed, and just do it a little at a time. Please remember that its very easy to forget what went where. So label as much as possible, and put the bolts back in their holes wherever possible. Trust me, I've btdt, and this lesson was learned the hard way. On the bright side; at least your 11 year old gave you six years to save up! If your financial situation is anything like most. Then it'll take most of that lol. Maybe you could interest her in a nice jeep instead?

Sorry to hear that, we were hoping for a simple fix. Hopefully there's parts available for your model. Being a 2015, you should be okay. I hope you'll consider documenting this process. Then sharing it with us, along with a few pictures. Aside from the obvious entertainment value. It also helps to create permanent, searchable data for others who face that same situation in the future. Just think about how helpful your own search would've been. If you'd have found the cause, and the fix, already documented! If you run into problems along the way. We'll be here to try to help any way we can. Good luck!

I'm not familiar with those machines. But if you get close to the noise, you can usually pinpoint the cause. Hopefully its external.

When it's in the air, the wheels will spin anytime it's running in gear. Just make sure the wheels are fully stopped before you change gears from hi/lo. I'm assuming that it doesn't have a clutch.

I have a similar machine, and my wheels won't really spin when it's in the air. Not by hand anyway. Because you're also turning the differential. But I agree that it needs to be jacked up, and on stands. That'll help pinpoint the problem wheel, or wheels. Just be careful to make sure the wheels aren't spinning when you put it in, or shift gear.

Keeping safety in mind. I'd put it up on jack stands, then crawl underneath and try to pinpoint the noise. Try it while it's not running first. It'll be easier to find the noise. If that doesn't work, then try it again while it's running. If it's in the transmission, it could be a pin, or something similar striking the side of the case, with every rotation. Probably an easy fix. But getting to it would be the hard part. It might be something altogether different. But getting it up in the air would be where I'd start.

I've seen a few plastic hoods on the side of the road, having been blown off. There's not much holding them on, and sometimes they weren't designed to go sixty, seventy miles per hour. So they can blow off when trailering. Just something else to be aware of. And to verify if your machine has a substantial hold down mechanism.

Thanks, it was a fun project. And I highly recommend this rack to anyone who is looking for something like that. There's lots of feral hogs here. Along with a couple of other specific tasks. Killing a few of these hogs each year gets me a substantial tax deduction.

And the finished product. It's extremely solid. I could stand on top of this thing. And the guns are held very snug, in a no mar rubberized bracket.

Next up is installing the bar

The kit comes with rubber shims to accommodate the mule's less than 2 inch roll bar. But I prefer to use Gaffers tape. That stuff sticks, and won't walk or let go.

The installation is straightforward, and easy. With hinged brackets that wrap around the roll bar

Just picked up a new overhead gun rack. I had to look around quite a bit, because I didn't like the design, nor the reviews of most. They typically rely on a spreader type design. That type of design causes a somewhat loose fit. I needed a more positive fit. So I went with the seizmic 07301

Yes, I was talking, while checking the driver side view mirror. Looked over...gone. just like that. Grassy, gently rolling hills, about 15mph. actually. No turns, just a gentle bump...gone. See the problem is, the grab handle is way up at a full arm's reach away. And there's absolutely nothing else to grab on the way out. We had a nervous laugh about it. He said the tire was coming right at him. But after that day. Seatbelts were mandatory for the passengers. The driver has a steering wheel to hang on to. Glad you figured out the seatbelt issue. I hate machines thinking for me. There's always something that makes you need it do what it doesn't want to do.

There's a turbo kit for the yamaho rhino. Maybe the brackets would fit yours? It turns the rhino into a beast.

Gas doesn't come from, or go to too many places. Pretty much gas tank to carb. So maybe it's to deal with bypass going back to the tank.

Put in the manufacturer specified amount. The guys that built it know how much it should take. As to the smoking. If it's rings, it'll have a blueish tint. And it might smell a bit like unburned gas. Set the proper oil amount by the volume suggested by the manufacturer. Not the dipstick. Nor the guy at the dealer. Then run it awhile, and see if anything improves.

Seatbelts above 15mph. would probably be a wise choice. Especially off road. I used to have a jeep cj with no doors. It really doesn't take much to lose a passenger, in an off road situation. A lot less than you'd ever believe. Luckily I only lost one. Lesson learned, and it had a happy ending. But wow! It was a scary moment. As to defeating the mechanism. I would think that latching it behind your back should work.

I have a 3010 diesel I bought new in 2005. It goes through mud okay. But not great. I haven't been stuck, but it wallows around a good bit. Not floating up on top like I'd prefer. Snow would probably be similar, but in Texas, we don't really get much snow. Here's the thing. 4 wheeling is a trade off between weight, power, and traction. The heavier a machine is, the more traction, and power you'll need. My mule is heavy (comparatively speaking), and I think that with bigger, better gripping tires, it'd be much better. But there's clearance issues for the front. Even with my lift kit. But the way its built, going higher would be a major challenge. So it'll never be a mud buggy. But if weight would help in the snow, it might work out. But the OEM tires on the mule are made to be on/off road tires. And as such aren't really great for either. They're okay at best. So plan on new, purpose built tires, and be happy if the OEM tires work well without changing them. Independent suspension, with lots of wheel travel is best for what you want. But mine was meant to be a beast of burden. Hauling heavy loads, pulling stumps, and a trailer sometimes. Independent suspension, with lots of wheel travel wouldn't work as well for my uses. So be honest with yourself, and know what the realistic end use will be. And buy the best you can afford. Buy once, cry once. I would've preferred the kubota. But the aftermarket for the mule was much better. Here's mine.

Pull the existing drain plug, or an internet search will give you the size. Make sure there's clearance to install, for example, skid plate clearance. If extra length is needed to make the necessary clearance. Fumoto also has extension adapters. I prefer the short nipple version. Don't forget to also get the hose end, that connects to the nipple. Fumoto sells reasonably priced tubing also. But you can get that locally if you prefer.

Parts availability is really the only limiting factor in any machine. If you've got a line on parts, it'll be okay. My only advice would be to seek out a factory service manual. It will be a valuable asset, and well worth the money, the first time you need it. Good luck, and welcome to the forum! We'll be expecting pictures!