kenfain

Welcome to the forum! Don't worry about navigating the forum. We all started somewhere. It'll work itself out.

Throttle position sensor?

Sometimes you can smell it. Sometimes there'll be a drip as it idles. But not always. There's another test, that tests for exhaust gasses in the coolant. But I know first hand, that it's not 100% reliable. The leak down test is the best. The plugs might be an indicator too. If one looks brand new, that would be consistent with being steam cleaned with coolant. But since you'd have to remove the head to fix it. A job like that requires certainty.

My guess is that its a head gasket, just from the weird symptoms. And the low hours, and it being relatively new. But I'm definitely just guessing here. Try the leak down test. Its a conclusive test for that condition. And will definitely answer that particular question. Here's another question. Was it doing this when you bought it?

No warranty?

You can get a leak down tester from o'Reilly auto parts. They have a loan a tool program. You can probably YouTube the actual test, it's not difficult at all. All things considered, that seems a reasonable start. How old is your machine?

Smelling the exhaust isn't enough to determine anything. To check for a bad head gasket, you'll need to perform a leak down test. What about a bad radiator cap. Have you checked that? That heat sensor needs to be tested for continuity.

Does the fan run when it's overheating?

Water pumps can go bad without leaking. Usually its a bad bearing. You can try taking the belt off, and rotate the pulley by hand. If the bearing is bad. You'll feel it. There was another member here that had everything in the cooling system working. But it still overheated. He said that he found a weak breaker. I'd guess it was for the fan. Typically the fan is the weak link in most of these situations. Although the sending unit is a close second. So tell us more about what you've checked so far?

Glad to hear that you have it worked out. I have to say, that with those symptoms, it was a real stumper. When everything works but it still overheats isn't a problem that I'd wish on anyone. What made you think it was a possible weak circuit breaker? I don't think that I've ever heard that one.

Okay, I guess that I just assumed that all the 3010 gas models came equiped with an alternator.

Maybe I'm not understanding the problem. Are you suggesting that you'd need to add a second alternator?

Couple of recommendations. First, would be to try a starter/alternator rebuild shop. That's a common route for the guys who use the high power car stereos. The alternator shop can put the high output parts in your alternator much cheaper than buying a new one. Next suggestion is to use the alternator from the diesel engine model. They're a higher output than the gas models.

If paper is available it's a far better option than the download. But these days, the download might be the only way. If that's how it turns out, I'd make certain that I got the genuine article, from the manufacturer. Not some watered down Chilton type of manual. Those things leave you hanging on important information.

Have you checked on a possible warranty fix? Assuming that you have checked the warranty, and had no luck. The gurgling makes me wonder if there's air in the system. The very first thing I do when I acquire any kind of new equipment. Is to buy a shop service manual from the dealership. Not the useless paperwork that comes with it. But the one the factory technician uses at the dealership for mechanical reference. You'll need it eventually, and they're hard to find after a machine is several years old. So get it now. Yes they're probably close to eighty bucks for a paper version. But it's several hundred pages, and contains EVERYTHING you could ever need to know about anything mechanical on that machine. Troubleshooting, torque values, how to test the sensors, switches etc. And would probably cover the issue you're having now. As to checking for air in the system. On some UTVs, there's a bleed screw for the coolant. Others have to be bled through the top of the radiator. A bad water pump, or heat sensor could also be a possibility. But making sure there's no air in the system is a fairly simple thing to do. Even though it's a fairly new machine, that's probably never had the cooling system apart. And shows no signs of ever having had a leak. The chances of air in the system are slim but that's where I'd probably start. Next would be the water pump.

Congratulations! But is that a wheel bearing?

Mine never leaves the property. But if I had a windshield, I'd either remove it or cover it before trailering any kind of distance.

I'd probably go with the cheaper set as well. After all, these things don't really get much mileage. Or high speed either. So it'd be good for a few years at least.

Can't help you with getting it loose. But future oil changes would be much easier if you had a valve type drain. I use the fumoto valve on all my vehicles when possible. Makes oil changes extremely easy. No wrenches, just flip the lever.

All it takes is one unlucky rock. I'd probably make a padded plywood cover for the windshield. The padding to protect the plexiglass from the plywood. Cut four hand sized holes around the outside edge for handling, and also to run the ratchet straps through.

Glad to hear it was a cheap easy fix. I hope the shifter, and cable turns out to be as easy.

It could be the tps. Can't rule out anything yet. Was it running good prior to setting up for awhile?

Have you checked that there's good fuel flow through the gas line, and filter? No obstructions? Checked the fuel pressure? Fresh gas?

Describe when you first had this problem. Was it sitting up unused for a while?

Sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Is it injected, or a carburetor?