kenfain

There's products made specifically for cable lubrication. But once there's a noticeable problem. None of that stuff really works. Maybe its okay for maintenance, but it won't fix a bad cable. A new cable isn't exactly expensive. So that's the only way to go here. Sometimes fishing that cable, or trying to duplicate the routing. Especially after removing the old cable, can be a problem. I'd probably try to tape the leading end of the new one, to the trailing end of the old one. Then work it through. That way it'll go over what its supposed to, and under, or through the rest. Hopefully leaving it positioned just as it's supposed to be. Might work, might not, but it's worth a try. Don't forget that its likely clamped down in a place or two. Good luck.

Thanks for the update. Keep us posted. If you're going to fix it yourself. Then please don't forget to take some pictures of the problem when its found!

Sounds like too much fuel to me. But spark is easily tested with a spark tester. There's some testers that are even adjustable to test how far the spark will jump.

Have you tried to download the service manual?

You'll have to follow that linkage, physically follow it. Check the lever under the dash n stuff for obstruction, but mostly wherever it ends up. To see that its clear, and operating properly. Sometimes branches, and stuff can foul the linkage. Cables can break, or jam. But since yours is catching the forward gears, its probably not a broken cable. It could still be jammed. I'm always pulling branches out from underneath mine. But it all starts there. Where it goes into the transmission, or transfer case, or differential. Wherever it goes. Make sure its operating the lever, or otherwise working properly. After that, it's mechanic territory. But you have to eliminate the simple stuff first.

You've said that the cooler weather seems to be a factor. Is there a heated area where you could test that idea? Or put a tarp over the motor, with a heater underneath, in the garage? It really sounds fuel related. But air and fuel work together. So maybe it's an air sensor or some thing. Sounds like you've had a similar train of thought. Don't know where you are. But in places where there's a lot of ethanol in the fuel. It can be a problem for small gas engines. Creating a problem that's difficult to pin down. Not unlike yours. Have you checked the injectors? I really have no idea, just throwing out suggestions till someone who might know comes along.

Checking fender clearances, and also turning the wheel to full steering lock. Then measuring the frame clearance too. Checking for bumper clearance just to be sure. Don't forget to do both sides. Taking into account that the suspension will be moving, reducing that clearance. Why not just use the lift kit?

If that cover plate is steel, it could be welded. If its polymer, I'm sure there's something that'll hold it. There's not a lot of stress, or pressure there. So a patch should last awhile. Giving time to find a replacement. And a skid plate.

Welcome to the forum!

My vote would be either the speed sensor, or sending unit. Whatever it uses down in the wheel, or transmission. Or fouled wiring from sticks, or branches. I'd start by giving a good look at the wiring. Then figure out where the speed sensor is. I could see water, or mud causing the problem. If the readout is moving at all. Then it seems like that part is working.

I would call this a single pin connector. The size would be important. Possibly 5mm, or 6mm etc. So the whole thing would be 5mm single pin connector. Or 6, whatever, you get the idea. But this is just a guess. Shouldn't be too hard to match. But I'd be looking at amp draw. For something like firewood loading, you don't need much light. Like an interior dome light on a truck. A little goes a long way.

Welcome to the forum! Glad to hear of your plowing success with the Ranger. Occasionally we have people asking about snow plowing with these little machines. But being in South East Texas, where it rarely snows. And never enough to plow, much less shovel. I've had extremely limited experience with this, and can't contribute much. I've seen things like that done before, albeit not much around here in Texas. Even then, it was always on a light truck. And typically it was a hydraulic system. But it sounds like you're on the right track. Especially with the beefier mounting, and the larger actuator. I use one of those electric actuators for the bed lift of my mule. They work pretty good if you've got enough power. Please take the time to document this build, and share it with us. And remember that we love pictures! Good luck with your build, we're looking forward to hearing about the details of your project.

Since the 2003 is so similar. Is it possible that the switch from the 2003 could be made to fit the 02 model?

Welcome from East Texas Teresa!

You'll need to post more information about make, model, etc. Possibly a picture of the strut in question.

Yes, even though it's fuel injected its still the same problem. That gas gets old, and sometimes it'll gum things up. The fuel injector cleaner should help to clean it out for the most part. Sometimes it'll do the job completely. Other times it'll always die occasionally. The problem shouldn't get any worse though, as long as you keep running it. So my advice would be to take it out and run it as much as possible. Keep putting the treatment in it. Run a few tanks through it. Sitting there idling, and occasionally revving it, is okay. But it really needs to be driven. See if it'll fix itself, because otherwise it'll need parts. And make sure you've got fuel stabilizer in it for storage.

I have a diesel mule that has the intake in the rops bar. It's loud also. A back window tamed the noise to a tolerable level. Since I'm not familiar with your machine, it might not be helpful. But insulating, and deflecting that noisemaker away from the cab would be the way to approach this. Just a shot in the dark here. But I see those black truck bedliners, on the side of the road that've blown out of a truck. That stuff would be an excellent material to fabricate what you've described.

That's a nice looking buggy you got there! And with cool weather approaching for most everyone who isn't in Texas. It's a very good choice for cold rainy weather.

Based on your description, it sounds like a classic case of varnish build-up in the carb. See if you can keep it running by nursing it with a light shot of starting fluid, every time it tries to die. If that works, then it's a varnish build-up. Sometimes a carburetor rebuild will fix it. Sometimes it takes a new carb. Kits are cheap enough to try that before buying a new carb.

Welcome to the forum! Maybe reinforce the windshield by putting some scrap plywood, or a scrap shipping pallet over it, to break the wind load on the plexiglass. Then a tarp overall. Wouldn't really worry about the soft top. As long as the windshield is in place, the pressure is all where it needs to be. On the outside pushing in. Lose that windshield, it's a blowout. Mind the speed, and you should be okay. Of course you'll want to stop frequently to check your load. Till you see for sure how its gonna ride.

If the reviews are favorable, I'd Google "2008 Teryx 750 problems" followed by maintenance issues etc. That way you can see if some unforseen problem might possibly be lurking right there waiting. That doesn't mean that you'll have any problem, but it gives more knowledge. Most reviews are done on new machines, that haven't had time, or elements working against it yet. Really only covering performance, and capabilities. All good things to know, but if a maintenance nightmare awaits, I'd want to know that as well. There should be plenty of information available about a 2008 machine. So you'll probably get all the information you need. And honestly, if it's in good shape, that's probably a fair deal. As I remember, the Teryx was a pricey machine, small, and fast. Geared more for fun, than work. Kind of a side×side version of a 4 wheeler. Either way, if it has a trailer hitch it'll be okay for light duty. And one thing I've learned on this forum, is that parts availability is a big plus. If you do buy it, be sure to get a shop service manual for it. Or for anything that you do get. Those manuals are pure gold, and together with the internet, can solve most problems.

The engine block casting process is pretty standardised, and would need to have some sort of piece to attach the coolant hose. So they used a typical thermostat housing. That way they don't have to engineer a hose nipple. Then pay to have it manufactured, which would only increase costs. The thermostat housing can be easily sourced. And it's common in any manufacturing industry to source common, non- propietary parts from elsewhere, and not manufacturing in- house. So it's natural to call it what it is, even though it doesn't actually contain a thermostat. That would be my guess. I'm sure that you could put one in there if it has the relief cut around the rim. So that the thermostat would properly seat, & seal. Although that wouldn't help your overheating problem. My guess would still be a water pump problem, or air in the system. Of course, not examining it personally, I can't totally rule out a blockage in the system, a clogged radiator or internally collapsed hose or something. But that seems extremely unlikely, and I trust that you've eliminated those possibilities.

Sounds like a dead short in that swith, or somewhere in that circuit. Probably blew a main fuse. You said you've got power TO the fuses. What about after? Limbs, and rocks, and other road debris is often the culprit here. Check the switch with a continuity tester. Then look around underneath where the wires go into the front drive. Or the transaxle or whatever it has. It's possible that it's something else, but since it happened when you hit the button. That's where I'd start looking. If it's a push button activated 4wd. There's a relay that'll drive the actuator. Both those are prime suspects.

I don't see how a thermostat missing would cause overheating. The thermostat is used to get the motor to heat up to operating temp, so you can run a heater, etc. Lack of a thermostat would cause it to run too cool. I'd look for other problems, like the water pump impeller running backwards. It has to push water in a certain direction, or it doesn't work right. I had a jeep that had this problem. The parts house gave me one to fit a serpentine belt. Which went underneath the bottom side of the pulley. Turning it the opposite direction. Or an air bubble in the system. Today's cooling systems have to be "burped" sometimes. Especially foreign cars.

That light assembly looks exactly like mine. Which is oem. Although I haven't ever looked at the bulbs, those look like standard automotive bulbs. I'd bet that any auto parts house would have it. Is the number still etched on it?