kenfain
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Everything posted by kenfain
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Up should be the least pressure. When it starts coming down, that's when pressure is applied. Most engines have some sort of mark that indicates TDC. You might research that. The screwdriver method works too ...usually. The problem with the screwdriver method, is it's a judgement call, and not perfect. But it sounds suspiciously like maybe we're not quite at TDC. Just based on the symptoms, and subsequent description of same. If there's no marks, at all, then try adjustment of the valves by rocking the engine. Look for the sweet spot, when the slack in the rod appears. Because that's likely where your tap is. Adjust that to tolerance specs. See if that improves the situation.
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I'd say you're on to something there. That push rod should be tight, if the valve is depressed at all. Are you sure that you had the piston at TDC, and on the correct stroke when adjusted?
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Don't remember what kind of lifters you've got, but most American cars use hydraulic lifters that can stick. That'll cause ticking.
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You might try to find a leak down tester at the local auto parts tool loan program, and give that a try. Otherwise I'm assuming that there's not any oil leaking around where the cylinder meets the case. And if you pull the dipstick while its running, and oil doesn't come out. Nor is there any oil on the crankcase ventilation tube. That pretty much covers the head gasket. I'm still thinking that one of the lifters is the problem, but it's a good idea to keep an open mind. If it makes good power, and the plug is still looking good, and as long as it doesn't get worse. I'd just keep driving it for awhile. Always keep an eye on it, and keep checking the plug. If it's anything significant then eventually it'll start showing signs of what's wrong with it.
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Well at least you're making headway on the part that you didn't want to mess with. As far as the tap goes, you might have to live with it. Unless you want to pull that head off, and redo the top end.
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Welcome to the forum! I have to say, that I really like the thought of what you're planning. If there's room to physically fit the motor, and it turns the right direction, and shaft driven. I can't see why it wouldn't work. It would likely be a project requiring fabrication skills, as well as tools & equipment. Not to mention, a place to do this. If you've got all of that, then I'd say yes, it would work. It all starts by measuring the motor, and then measuring the space where it'll go, with the bed down. Of course the bed could be raised if it comes to that. But I really don't see it saving any money, if that's a big part of your plan. Having someone who does this type of work doing it, might be a better call. Assuming that it's diesel power that you're after, rather than just a quick easy swap. Rebuilding the old motor, would be much easier, and probably much cheaper in the end, with lots of well worn paths of experts, and professionals, manuals, parts and such. With the swap, you're pretty much on your own, creating as you go. If you're thinking that it'd be a toss up, on which way to go...not even close. It has the potential to be a full on project. While there is a small chance that it'll just practically hop in there, with little modification, but probably not. Then of course there's the wiring to deal with. To do this right, and have it be something that you're proud of, and show off to friends. You'll have to be over the top with welding, and fabrication, wire management, paint etc. If you do decide to fit the diesel engine, it has a lot of potential. The bragging rights alone would be priceless. I know which way I'd go, even though, like yourself, I'd be mighty tempted. I'm sure the diesel motor could be sold to finance a lot of the project, while at the same time, freeing up some space. Regardless of which way you decide to go, remember to please keep us updated with pictures. Good luck with your project whichever direction you choose!
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Big welcome from East Texas!
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Yes, now try to readjust. Maybe it's loosened, or settled in, or who knows what. But if you're sure it's in the top end, then that's where to start. Maybe lean towards the lesser end of the tolerance scale, see if it quiets it down any. If that doesn't help, then you might be deciding on wether to take it back apart.
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That's where you put the feeler guage under the rocker arm while it's at TDC. Then adjust to specs.
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Readjust the lifters.
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If the lifters are adjusted within specs, the only thing I could think of would be one is sticking a bit. Of course it could be something much worse, like a wrist pin or something. Personally, I'd probably just run it a while. If for no other reason(besides laziness), than it'll be easier to see where metal on metal contact is being made. But you only want a few hours of this, so that real damage can't be done. In the meantime, find a good mechanics stethoscope. Maybe you can better isolate the problem. If you're sure it's in the top end, then there's no real hurry.
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People who are supposed to know about this type of thing, say not to mix oil. Particularly if it's a different weight. Personally I don't see how a multi weight oil could be created other than mixing different weight oil. I probably wouldn't do it on a car, because of how expensive it might be to experiment. But for the mule...common sense would seem to be to not mix conventional oil, with synthetic. Otherwise I don't see a problem. I would change it again as soon as it starts getting a caramel color.
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Sounds like it's time to get dirty again. My guess would be a pin or something has come out. Maybe the forward tilt let it slide into place. I certainly hope that YouTube has something good, because I don't really mess with differentials. There's not that much to em, but they typically take experience in their rebuilding technical details. If it was my mule, and I was in your position, I suppose I'd just have to give it a shot. Without 4wd, you'll definitely need that fixed. I hardly use mine, but experts in the mule vs. mud arena, tell me that the locker is actually slightly more useful than the 4wd. That's with proper mud tires of course.
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Jack up the rear, and see if you can duplicate when it locked. See if that sheds any light on the issue. But honestly, it sounds like you'll have to do some exploratory surgery. Is there a cover that can be removed, or do you pull out the works?
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So we're dealing with the differential not locking, rather than not going into 4wd? Have you checked the fluid level? Checked to make sure there's nothing physically blocking the travel of the dash lever, or the control mechanism on the diff? If it's able to lock going downhill, then that condition shouldn't be too hard to duplicate in the garage. Now would be a good time to lube the levers, and the cable, because it eliminates those as a suspect, and it's good maintenance.
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Any idea wether it's the diff, or the trans? I'd probably put it up on jack stands, and try to replicate the issue. Then try to isolate wether it's the trans. or the diff. Disconnect the cable on the differential, and gently try to engage the 4wd. by manually working the lever on the diff. All while working the wheels back and forth. The wheels should turn opposite direction. Then when locked they should go the same way. I'm counting on it being limited slip. You should be able to feel it go into 4wd, if it does. Maybe rock the back wheels a bit, see if it helps to massage it into 4wd. If you try to do it with the engine running then the key here is gently in all things that aren't under load. Tiny gears are delicate, and expensive, also requiring lots of labor to replace. My guess would be the differential, it seems more likely. But I wouldn't rule out anything at this point, even a snag in the linkage.
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Not too sure that I'd trust B&S to have an engine that never needs an oil change. I'll have to wait a few years, and see if this technology survives long term.
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Oil is pretty much oil. I'm also not buying that synthetic oil lasts twice as long either. It might work better, and because of that it might last a bit longer. I just buy a decent quality conventional oil, and change it often.
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I've heard that also. But I've never heard any facts to back it up. Common sense would say that lubrication is pretty straightforward. I can't believe that the metallurgy would be changed by one kind of oil over another. So wouldn't the new oil, of whichever variety, just mix with the few remaining drops of old oil? What could possibly be so complicated? You had yours completely apart; did you see anything inside that looked delicate?
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I never believed in a special oil for break in. Opting for changing it often instead. After all, the only thing required of oil, is lubrication, and holding particles in suspension, till the filter can do its job. Having an oil that you can leave unchanged for long periods of time, seems like a sales gimmick. I'd suggest you go with a nice synthetic, and change it at frequent intervals.
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Welcome to the forum Flanman55! Unfortunately I have nothing useful to add to your question. But I do have a lot of real world experience in inherited work arounds. I've encountered many jury rigged wiring situations. My guess would be that it's not as simple as a bad sensor. The reason being, that the jury rig that you've described, would've been harder than an actual fix. Not to mention that it would've had some cost, considering wire, and switch, and time etc. So my guess is there's another root problem. Possibly a problem that requires expensive parts. Or unobtainable parts. So my suggestion would be to prepare for the worst here. If you're pleasantly surprised then great! Bear in mind, that I'm neither a mechanic, nor an electrical system expert. Maybe someone will chime in who is. YouTube is a great resource for finding ways to test sensors and stuff. Harbor freight has cheap volt meters. If there's not a wire dangling, that has an empty plug attached. You'll have to chase those wires by color. I'd test the sensor, and if it tests good, then look for the plug, or the wire that used to have a plug attached. It'll be the same color as the one going to the gauge, and/or the fan. There's your starting point, get back to us on this. Good luck!
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Welcome to the forum Bchickness! Sorry , I can't really help since I live in mostly wooded, flat terrain, I don't even use the provided belts on mine. But I am interested in why exactly, someone would need a four point harness, in something that doesn't move all that fast? Mountain trails maybe? If so, then we're gonna have to ask for pictures. East Texas terrain is a little boring in that way. Mud, or swamp, is the most exciting thing I'm likely to encounter. Otherwise it's an exciting 7mph. all the way. In answer to your question though, I'd think that the rock crawling crowd would know. Personally, if I thought that I needed that much safety, I'd want a racing seat, with hard doors, and a net.
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Sounds like you're on the right track. If I saw rust in the tank, I'd still clean & coat the inside though.
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Welcome to the forum Thomas! The diesel mule uses a higher output alternator than the gas model, so it's possible that the battery has more cca also. Might be an option for your situation. When my battery went out a few years back, I opted for an oem replacement, since I got about eight or ten years out of the old one. Over the years I've learned that weight is a better indication of quality batteries, since it's the number of lead plates inside that matters. That oem battery is very heavy for its size. Even by battery standards that thing was heavy. It's hard to find a good battery at a really good price these days. So in the end it was just as cheap to get the original replacement. If you need to up the amperage output of the alternator, then any good alternator repair place should be able to do that. I don't replace oem starters, or alternators any more, I have them all repaired. The replacement equipment that's sold at auto supply places are always cheap junk. Unless you buy from the dealer for several hundred dollars, you're better off helping the local guy out, while you save some money. Good luck with your choice!
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Welcome to the forum Rifleman1775. Sounds like you're off to a good start, with a good machine. I'm sure it'll give you a few good times, and hopefully many years of trouble free miles.
