kenfain
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Everything posted by kenfain
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There's several products for rust removal. There's also products to put a coating inside the tank. I would think that between the two, you could get satisfactory results, with a semi permanent fix as well.
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Have you tried blowing out the line from the carb end, to the tank?
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Sometimes people think they've cleaned, and /or rebuilt a carburetor, only to find out it didn't take. Those things have tiny little fuel passages that can easily be missed. That's why I suggest you let the fuel do the cleaning, using an additive. Sometimes that isn't possible, but I think it'll work here. Assuming that's the problem. If it's the tank, you could draw some gas through the line, into a glass jar. Look for impurities, also make sure there's good flow. Or it could be the gas cap vent. When the engine is having issues, quickly pop the cap, look for immediate improvement. Verify by driving it awhile with a rag or something stuck in there. No problems, then replace the cap. See what happens, then repeat till you know for sure.
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If the run time is long enough to use some additive like Berrymans, or Seafoam, you might try that first. Could end up being a cheap fix. Otherwise it sounds like the carb could use a cleaning. Personally, I think that if it went a half mile, that you could get enough treated fuel through it to help. Does it have a fuel pump? Or is it gravity fed? Is it possible that it's not getting enough, or intermittent flow?
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Glad to hear it!
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I'd try backing it off a half turn at a time, drive it, see what happens. When the results turn negative, I'd see if I could improve it again using the other screw. See if I could get it to level out at what it used to be. But I can almost guarantee that thing wasn't bottomed out from the factory. So I'm hoping that loosening that lower screw will give a desired result. But a word of caution. When playing with this kind of thing, it's extremely important to be able to put it back, just like it was. So I'd carefully count the the turns to the bottom on both, then put it back. Then write it down. In my younger days, I've rendered a working machine, to non working, by not being prepared. Sometimes getting it running again can be a real pia. It doesn't have to be exact, but very close. But really, it seems like it almost has to be an adjustment. Although like I said, I know nothing about a governor.
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It looks like that lower screw is bottomed out. Is that the one that is supposed to be the governor adjustment? What happens if you back it off?
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If it's a gear in the crankcase, then it could be a rev limiter. It's mechanically possible that it could have both. Could you red line the rpm before when it was in neutral? If not then it probably has a rev limiter.
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I have zero experience with a governor. Is it a rev limiter? Or is it speed controlled?
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Probably is, that wouldn't be uncommon. Unless it gets a lot worse, I'd just drive it awhile, and adjust it after the break in.
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There's not much to most centrifugal clutches. I believe it's pretty straightforward. Of course I've only seen the little ones, so yours could be more involved. But usually on something like this, the real difficulty is in fighting the new springs back on. Since they're new, and stiff, it can be a real problem. Sometimes there's special tools, and/or techniques that'll help. But it sounds like the kit is the way to go. Might end up being easy.
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Sounds like the springs are getting weaker with age. If it can be rebuilt, that'd be the way to go. Otherwise you might have to replace it.
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Can you idle it with the cover removed?
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Glad to hear you got the brake going again without much drama. As far as the break in oil, I'd just wait till it started to get a light brown. But that's pretty much when I try to change oil. Break in, or otherwise, doesn't matter to me.
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2014 Kawasaki Mule Brake Adjustment - Hand Controls
kenfain replied to Legless's topic in Kawasaki UTV SxS Forum
If I'm understanding this correctly. It sounds like you're trying to accomplish the same job with your upper body, that's typically done with the much stronger muscles of the lower body. Some kind of leverage is needed. Have you contacted the manufacturer of this kit? Maybe they've seen this before, and could help. In the meantime, how about using the parking brake at the same time, while braking? Or maybe adjusting the engine brake, or a combination of all the above? -
I'd try to back off the bleeder screw just a bit. Then try to gently pry my way in. If you can expose the brake shoes, you could possibly collapse the shoes. Of course this plan is dependent on it being the main brake, and not the emergency brake, being what's locked up. So I suppose that's the first order of business. We're gonna need more information. But I have to say, that plug is typically just a cover for the adjustment.
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Soldered first?
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Looks like the ones that you linked to, draw 3w per bulb ×6 =18w per light. That might be a stretch for your mule's electrical output. If you didn't use the lights for very long, maybe ten minutes or so at a time, while the engine is running. Just like you have to do, when you're using a winch, you might be okay. You'd definitely need to always use a battery maintainer type charger, when it's parked, to make sure the battery doesn't get too low. This is all based on two assumptions; that your mule doesn't have an alternator, and that you'd have these lights on a separate switch, with only occasional use. If they replace the existing headlights, you'd need to know how much power you're saving there. But I'll bet those old lights use plenty of watts.
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Ordering the exact part would probably be best in this case. And I thought that my twelve dollar bit of hose was expensive.
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Glad you found the key! Maybe there's an old school parts house, or tractor parts supply, or even big rig parts nearby. Some of these places will have a diverse collection of hoses. Might have to go to several. I recently ran across this same thing looking for a metric hose. Out in the country, my money would be on the local tractor dealership. Call and ask if they sell metric fuel line by the foot. That's where I got mine, and it was about a foot. Cost me twelve bucks iirc. There's several kinds of torque wrenches, so I can't say all will set the torque in reverse. But I'd say that any I'm aware of are made to torque left hand thread also.
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Twenty four bucks for six inches of fuel line! It doesn't sound like it's even high pressure line. But it's still likely cheaper than driving to Houston to find it cheaper. You've got to wait on the key anyway, so if that's all that stands in the way, then I'd say you got off light. Typically on a rebuild, I'll make several trips to the local parts house for those odd bits.
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The break in on a motor, seems to be based on the size of the motor. I've never heard it said that way, but it seems like it's less for a smaller engine. I've known many people over the years who've taken pains to be careful to stick to the break in procedure. Also those who used a "drive it like you stole it" approach. The stole it bunch won hands down every time, in performance. Because of this, I've always just changed the oil, and adjusted valves, and called it good. But I have to add, that a friend, and I had identical motorcycles once. One particular red light saw the perfect opportunity to see who's bike was faster. We both bought brand new, and the same year model. I'd really stuck to the break in recommendations. He was a no maintenance, drive it as fast as possible guy...and I was kinda surprised to see him leave me behind like I had a flat tire. So I don't think I'd worry about it too much. Just don't get crazy, and there'll be no problem.
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Sounds llike you won't have to worry about that ignition coil just yet. But I'll bet there's at least one belt that could be changed, while you've got some easy access.
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Woohoo! I love it when it works out like it should. I can't hardly wait to see pictures of it down by the pond again.
