kenfain

Using the buggy's own wiring sounds like a plan. Let us know how it works.

I can certainly understand your point of view there. I also prefer trails over mud, but I've always just tried to embrace the maintenance that comes with a day of fun. For me, it was worth it. Since it's not my daily drive to work vehicle, it's okay if it's down till it gets a little service done.

Chuck Norris put the laughter, in Manslaughter lol.

Hey Aaron, welcome to the forum. I can't tell you exactly what bolt you need for a specific application. But what I'd do, is this. Try to find out what approximate size it is. I'd guess around a half inch or so. The more important measurement here would be length. A couple of 3/16 pieces of steel, bolted together would need about a 3/4 inch length bolt, minimum. That's to leave threads for a flat washer & nut. You'll want to get a grade 5 bolt. Those shiny zinc hardware store bolts won't do for a heavy duty application, like a plow. But grade 8 is better. Price difference is negligible. As far as the actual size... I typically use a drill bit to insert in the hole(the sizes are marked on them) if I need to be certain. Otherwise, I just buy several, at 18 cents apiece. That's why length, and grade is important. So you're not buying the whole hardware store. Buy a bolt of a couple sizes starting at a 1/2 inch×3/4 long, along with a couple flat washers each. The nuts would be locknuts. Be prepared to return to the store if it isn't a snug fit. I've found that it's always a good practice to keep a mindset, that I'll be returning to the hardware store before I finish the job...it saves my sanity sometimes.

Well, if they ever come down to Montgomery County!...but I'm sure they probably know better.

Welcome to the forum David. Now don't take this the wrong way, but the whole thing that you've posted, is a little bit confusing. If I understand correctly, you feel that someone has done you wrong. Maybe that's true, but if that's what you want us to understand...then you'll have to put it out with a bit more detail. Even then , I don't think that we're in a position to help. If you're looking for help moving forward, then as a forum, we'll do what we can to guide your efforts. But it's unlikely that we'll be able to go to this guy's house, and beat the crap out of him, if that's what you had in mind lol.

Welcome digger! Glad to have you here! That's a nice looking rig you got there. After reading the above, I just have to ask....why are you avoiding mud? High horsepower, lots of clearance, plenty of lugs on the tires. You got it all! Of course it could always be better. But sometimes you just meet your match. Here's the solution to mud. Go in a group, everyone brings a piece of the solution. That is...Knowledge, Experience, Equipment. To put it simply, someone has a winch, several people have cables, several people know what's the best plan. It's a beautiful thing when it happens. Sure, everyone gets muddy, but it's not a bad thing. Embrace it! Rolling around in the mud , at dusk, with people you barely know....Its's how REAL friends are made. People who enjoy the same things as you. The kind of camaraderie you bond in the mud, the blood , and the beer can't be faked or bought. It's the real deal. Not like swappin stories at work. Pictures are priceless!!

How are you planning on shutting it down in case of a problem ? The jumper cables should work to get it started though.

Great! Glad to hear it!

I'd probably go with the biggest that would fit in the spark plug hole first. It might take awhile to fill the cylinder with paracord. Anything that stops the piston from completing the stroke.

For a little eye candy, on just what is possible. If you've got the eye, and the talent. Check out the garage journal forum. Look specifically in the tool section. There's a fellow calls himself nine four GMC. Sorry I can't link it, but his threads are well worth the trip. Pure talent right there.

Nice start on the tools. But you need to keep on the lookout for the good stuff, at pawn shops, and garage sales. They're not making the good stuff anymore. Even snap-on is watering down their game.

I've seen those vise grips slip before, so I know what you mean there. But if it came out with a pair of pliers, then it wasn't in that tight. If you're going to work on equipment you'll need the good stuff. Old school vise grips, are manufactured by Peterson, look for those, not that Irwin crap. Otherwise look at Milwaukee brand, sold at home depot. There's a big difference in success on those specific vise grip jobs, when you're using the good stuff. Collect good tools now buddy, and take care of them, the future is pretty bleak for quality tools. So always keep an eye out for the good stuff.

Couple of things here. First, the valve covers on my car are in the 7ft. lbs. range. Very similar. You said that you tightened it as tight as you could with a ratchet. 7ft. lbs. would be about as tight as you could do with a nut driver. So a quarter in. ratchet would still be medium tight. Second, don't ever use pliers of any sort on anything that's stripped. Vise grips will work best. In this type of situation, go for the win on the first try, because sometimes there's not a second chance. If the pliers slip, they'll just make the job tougher. Since it all worked out, no harm done, and good job! Now, on to the flywheel, and keeping things from spinning. A simple trick from back in the day could help here. Try feeding a rope through the spark plug hole. Fill the cylinder up with rope, and leave it in place. Obviously you'll want to leave enough rope hanging out, so it can be removed afterwards. This will GENTLY bind the piston, so it can't cycle. Use a good rope , that won't leave tiny rope bits. And try to coil it into the cylinder as it goes in. It's been a long journey buddy, and now you're getting close to the end. Don't forget why you came this way, instead of taking the easy way, and just paying the money. The things you've learned here will serve you well, throughout your whole life. Really...its a small price to pay for that kind of education. Keep those pictures coming!

Might think about an inexpensive winch. But cheap doesn't mean small. A vehicle triples it's weight in the mud. An 1100 lb. vehicle will need at least a 3000 lb. winch if it's buried in deep. But keep in mind that it'll rarely be used, so an expensive Warn winch could be overkill. A couple of snatch blocks and lots of cable/rope/pull straps etc. and you're good to go. Remember to take pictures if you get it buried also, we like pictures!

Welcome to the forum Chris! Can't really help you on bargains. My guess would be that it's unlikely that you can get a quality brand, in the condition that it needs to be, for that kind of money. You get what you pay for. And you want something that's mostly trouble free when you're on the trail. But I'd look for probably a used Yamaha Rhino. They sold lots of those, and they've got a huge aftermarket for parts, and they're good little machines for recreation, and light duty. I really haven't any idea of price, but you might get close. If you buy used you'll need to consider parts availability as a priority. What I can tell you, is that you'll definitely want independent rear suspension for hills, and trails. Small, and light is better for recreational use since they're better for mud, and hills. Beware of those Chinese models unless you're a mechanic. I'm sure they're great when they're running. But service manuals are mostly unavailable. Parts only marginally better. Good luck! Don't forget to tell us what you decide on. And remember that we like pictures.

Hey Travis! Hope y'all had a nice Thanksgiving. Sounds like you're almost ready to get that thing going! Have you given any thought to converting to foot pounds, and using a different/larger torque wrench? I'd probably just give em 240in. lbs. and be happy with that. I can't imagine there'd be a problem with that method. The important thing, as I see it, is that their all the same tightness, without being tight enough to strip those aluminum threads. Maybe add a little of the blue thread locker.

Welcome to the forum! Unfortunately I can't help with this brand of UTV. Mine is a Kawasaki, and I use mine for work around the farm. I also have a small tractor, and I get way more use out of my mule than the tractor. So I think you made the right decision.

First off, welcome to the forum! I have an older diesel mule, and I really like it. But the newer models are totally different from mine, so I really can't comment on those. It would help if we knew if you were looking for new, or used? Budget considerations? Unfortunately a heavy vehicle, with a straight axle is better for plowing snow. While a lightweight unit with independent suspension is best for trail riding. So you'll have to make a choice on primary use. Either will work for both uses, but won't be ideal for the other. Of course there's usually an aftermarket accessory to help to adapt the vehicle, but as an example, my heavy mule couldn't ever be adapted to be a rock crawler, and heavy mud is a challenge. But I can haul a half cord of wood in the back while pulling a trailer. Try that with a Rhino, and there'll be problems. That Rhino is a very adept vehicle, and with all the add-on parts and accessories available, like a turbo and such, it has the potential to be a beast. But I'm thinking it'll be too light to effectively plow snow.

Hard to believe that an automotive machine shop wouldn't understand the performance reasons for grinding a cam. But since I live in a rural part of Texas, I've dealt with this type of people before. Almost makes me miss the city at times. Sounds like a really interesting project! Don't forget to document the project. And please include pictures!

I'm wondering if it's the small size, that keeps them from wanting to work on it. I'd certainly ask why they won't do it. If it is the size being too small for their machine, then maybe try a place that works on lawn equipment. Maybe they can steer you towards a machine shop. If that failed, my next step would be to find a utv performance forum. I believe that a lot of things are being done performance wise, to the Yamaha Rhino. Maybe someone there knows of a performance shop. I know that they make turbos and such for them. So turning a cam, or crank wouldn't be unreasonable.

A locking differential works best if it's on the axle that bears the most weight. If you've got the option for both, and they lock independent of each other. Each having it's own switch, that'd probably be best. Otherwise go with the weight thing. That would maximize the traction.

Looks like it would be a lot of fun to drive. But with those open wheels, I think you'll be wearing whatever you're driving through. You should also look for a stamped number on the frame. I'd think that it would be in the cockpit. Those numbers are hard to spot, since they're painted over. Good luck, and welcome to the forum.

There's got to be a manufacturer plate on it somewhere. It'll have the vehicles info on it. I'd get it up in the air where I could inspect the bottom thoroughly. I'm assuming you've inspected all that's visible on the top side.

Any chance of swapping the carb with a known good running one? I know that you feel confident that's not the problem any longer. But it sure sounds like it's a carb issue. Since you've said it runs pretty good with the choke. Maybe some crud got missed, or a float, or jet problem causing this? From the description it sounds like a fuel issue. Can't help you on your specific question about the igniter box though.