kenfain

Just an FYI, keep that mule in 2wd, except when absolutely necessary. Like when you're approaching some sloppy mud, or a hill, that you know will require 4wd. I'm not saying to wait until you're not moving / stuck. Just saying to not ride around in 4wd. Every turn you make, when the wheels have solid ground under them, will cause wear, of the type you've described. Even dry dirt, although concrete is the worst. Now that being said, the gears, and seals will dry up, if not used. What I do, is put the unit in 4wd, on long straight lengths of road. No turns. Keeping everything lubed, and happy. Only shifting into 4wd, as I approach the mud, yet before I'm in it. Shifting back into 2wd immediately after. As others have said before, it's best to use a little reverse, to help make that shift back to 2wd.

There's just not that many members who can answer technical questions about the many mechanical issues that come up. Add to that, most people, only come here to ask, not to answer any questions. And further, when they do find the answer to their issue, they fail to share this information to the thread. This inaction, keeps the search function from being the asset, that it could be! But it's the same at most forums. However the problem seems larger, given the smaller membership here. Especially coupled with our lack of mechanical experts. I've really only been on the mule, section of this forum, and we could really use a half dozen Kawasaki mechanics. Maybe a factory rep. or similar. You get the picture.

Two years is a long time for a vehicle to sit. I hope it has a poly gas tank. I'd also let the air pressure out of the tires, with the mule up on blocks. No matter what precautions are taken, it's still taking a potentially expensive chance.

Try contacting Essex manufacturing. they're in Ft. Worth, Tx. They make all kind of stuff for mules.

Have you tried to find, used parts? A quick Google search turns up several places that provide used parts for the mule. As far as using the shocks from a small car go. Finding the smallest possible size, would still be pretty big. Maybe from a golf cart, would open up more possibilities.

Mine has always done this since it was new. It's normal, but I've also learned to use the reverse for a couple of feet, when shifting back to 2wd.The owners manual says it'll shift back to 2wd on the fly, and it does, only with a huge thunk! Making the kind of noise, and feel that you just know, can't be good.

Have to say, it doesn't fit with my understanding of what limited slip is. I know that my 05 mule has limited slip, and pulls decent in the mud. I can't see any advantages to having a four wheel drive that only pulls with one wheel in the front. Personally, I'd talk to a different dealer, and put the matter to rest once and for all.

You tube has some good video on this, where they use a battery and carb cleaner. I've never tried it, but I can't see how it could fail to work.

Limited slip, it will definitely spin both front wheels in mud.

I have an 05 3010 the front diff is limited slip. Here's how you can be sure. On dry, solid ground, shift into four wheel drive. When you turn the steering wheel all the way over, like you're making a u turn. If the turn is smooth, it's limited slip. In a vehicle that has a full locker, doing a u turn on solid ground will cause the vehicle to buck and jump. This is because the outside wheel makes more revolutions than the inside wheel. And the wheels will skip, as they struggle against each others traction. Making a u turn on concrete, with a locker engaged can damage the vehicle, so I'd recommend grass. But I'd be surprised if it has a factory front locker. To my knowledge, none of the major manufacturers have this very useful feature.The back wheels though should have some sort of differential lock somewhere in the cab.

Personally I'd likely put a lot of effort into making sure the injectors aren't gummed up from the gas that's sold these days. I understand the gas that's available, causes most of the problems like yours. After posting earlier, I did a quick Google search, and it seems that these gas units are a bit finicky about gas quality, and the ethanol is the worst. So I'm thinking I'll revise my opinion towards the regulator. Since you recently acquired this mule, you probably don't know much about the mechanical history of this thing. So I'd start with the basics. I'm certain it's in the fuel system, although I've been wrong many times before. And barring any unforseen issues such as your pressing the throttle, prior to starting, (some people do as a habit of starting). My gut feeling is the injectors. Although it could easily be one of the sensors, but I'm thinking that you'd get a warning light if that were the case.

The regulator is likely in the tank. Did you replace the whole assembly, or just the pump?

I'd get an higher output alternator. It's the only real solution for too much amp draw.

That sounds like an lot of time to spend pulling a motor, that's relatively easy to get to. I'd call a different dealer and ask a couple questions. First I'd ask if the motor has to be pulled to replace the starter. If the answer is no, then you'll know the other place is less than honest. If yes then ask what the book time is on starter replacement. No matter which place you take it to, let them make the diagnosis. If you take it to the second place, and tell them you think it needs a starter then that's what they'll replace. If that's not actually your problem, then you're out of luck on getting them to then fix your problem without paying extra. If they give a wrong diagnosis then they have some amount of liability to make it right.

Possibly as fuel pressure regulator? What about the filter?

Have you tried anything to narrow the problem down, such as fuel pressure? Does it continue to run badly, after it's been shut down for awhile? When you have a problem like this, you'll have many different systems that are suspect. The carb does seem likely, but it could possibly be a fuel pump, or filter. Or maybe the electrical system, once warmed up completely, could cause the misfiring. Personally I'd be setting up to read that fuel pressure before and after it starts acting up.

It sounds like the cylinder compression is pumping air through your coolant system. Is it possible that the gasket was put on upside down?

Distributor?

Thanks for the heads up for all the Joyner owners! Glad there's a happy ending, and a handy new tool also! That housing must have had a lot of stuff in it. Have you given any thought, as to how to prevent a recurrence? Or is the clean out gonna be the best way to deal with this?

Adding weight to the front and rear will smooth it out a bit. It'd be a good opportunity to add a heavy steel bumper, and /or winch.

Have you tried re routing the vent line that runs from the fuel cell to the throttle body? I've heard that can cause starting issues.

There's a thread started by trackguy22 back in July, that states that he used a fuel pump from an old 80s pickup. Sorry I can't figure out how to link

Welcome and congratulations on the mule purchase. How bout some pictures?

Congrats on the new mule, sounds like a good deal. It's the reputation of these older models, that these newer ones rest on. They're solid, like they should be. Not like the over engineered stuff of today. We're very interested in your build, please share pictures as you go. Welcome, and best of luck!

Mine is okay on slight incline, but it's not good for wheelin. The motor's willing, up to a point, but the traction just isn't there. I'm afraid if I put enough traction on it, it'd be hard on the rest of the drivetrain. But I don't need more than what it comes with. You're right about the sporty part, the rhino has a huge after market. The mule not so much. If I did it over, I'd likely go with the kubota R9000. It's not very sporty either, nor is there much after market accessories available. But that's a well put together machine, with three forward gears, that's the way to go for work. For any mixed use, I'd get the rhino. I've seen people put a Turbo on em, that's just cool.