kenfain

Dunno how much you know about code readers. But they only read codes that are actually there. Making their usefulness somewhat limited. Some problems don't generate any codes. That's why you need one that does live data. It'll tell you exactly what the engine is doing. Still quite a challenge to figure out what's not right, but since all the information is there, it becomes a matter of going through it, and finding out what's out of place. I just don't want you to spend a significant amount of money, thinking it's an instant solution. It's not an end all be all, that just gives you an instant solution. Instead, live data is a lot of gibberish to the non mechanically inclined of us who don't fully understand the information stream it provides. But it's accurate information, you just have to take it one line at a time, and figure it out.

My opinion is, that it'll be far cheaper in the long run, to get the code reader now. Throwing parts at it, will only make you angrier. Last time I looked, the factory sold a code reader for these machines. It was several hundred dollars. But there are cheaper delphi readers available. You just need the right plug to connect it. Other forum members have done this. I'm sure that I read a thread, just in the last week or so, that named a specific brand reader as an affordable option. I think you should start a thread, to find out any information about the cheap Delphi code readers, that might work with your machine. It has to have the right plug, or it's useless till you get that specific plug in that matches yours. Take that information, and go from there.

That's definitely a warranty visit to the dealer. My vote is for a loose wire, probably at the guage. Have you checked the fuse? Looks like a vent tube in your picture. Likely it's just supposed to sit there unattached.

Since you have it apart, so there's no service center needed. Maybe you could use the pictures, to convince the manufacturer to send just the needed parts?

Since its affected everything, I'd suspect something is going on at the fuse box.

Possibly the back are full time engagement, with a broken part inside? That's why it spins independent of each other. Just guessing here, I know little about the 6×6 vehicles. But mechanically, it makes a certain kind of sense. Only one way to be sure though.

If it has a carburetor, then yes, it should be a simple adjustment. No specialized service center, or factory trained technician needed. Any qualified mechanic would likely have it fixed in moments. You can easily do it yourself if you're careful. The idle itself can be tuned on some equipment, on others, an adjustment to the air/fuel mix would be the fix. It's the fuel injected, CPU controlled vehicles that are more complex, and require more extensive knowledge, and tools.

Don't use the over the counter junk. It's not any better than paint. Gotta use the good stuff for anything that'll last. Unfortunately, you can't spray that stuff with a regular spray gun. So you need to have the gun too, if you're planning on doing it yourself. I'd bet that some of it can probably be rolled on though.

I like it a whole lot. Get a 12v inline duct fan. Run some small duct. Simple circuit, with a switch, and a fuse. Nice warm air blowing down. A friend who played golf, once described a similar approach to air conditioning a golf cart, using an ice chest, full of ice, at a course he played. Said it worked pretty well too.

Why not just do a good prep, and spray some bed liner.

Nice, that'll come in handy for lots of projects.

Merry Christmas!

Iv'e never seen a 6×6 up close. Are there any actuators that engage the rear wheels? Seems unlikely that you would be able to spin one on it's own, unless something came loose inside. Any diff that I've ever seen, the wheels would spin opposite. Or in a locker, or positrack situation, they're locked to spin together. I'm guessing that there's something came loose inside.

Sorry double post, mods please delete.

If it's a wet clutch, then check the fluid. They do weird things when they get low, or need a fluid change. If not, then Travis method seems like an excellent place to start.

As Travis has said, match, or exceed the cca rating on the existing battery is most important. The group size usually takes care of that, but it pays to be aware.

In light of earlier posts in this thread. I'd check the valves. Because something happened to just make it stop even trying to start. Just curious, but what method was used to verify the spark? Today's engines run with way more powerful spark than they used to. Some older testers, and methods aren't able to verify there's enough power for it to start the engine. Only that there's actually a spark. I use a tester, that looks like a mini spark plug. There's a large gap. If the spark jumps the large gap, then there's plenty of fire to start. They're cheap, and easy to find, and easy to use. Also they're absolutely necessary. It's recommended that you not just pull the plug, and lay it on the head, to check spark anymore. Bad things can happen to delicate electronics when doing this.

Buy something with good factory support. The forum is packed with people who have difficult mechanical issues, with these cheaper UTVs. Problems that would be much easier to solve, if the factory only had provided a decent level of customer support. Buy once, and cry once. Buy a cheap UTV, and it'll be everything it needs to be, until it breaks down. Then you may have real problems.

Finding the entry point of the water shouldn't be too tough. Seems like a good job for a smoke test. Any qualified mechanic should have a smoke tester. A vacuum test would be a bit harder, but you have to use what you have access to. And a smoke tester isn't something that most home mechanics have laying around. However, with a little creativity, you can re-create the smoke tester using household items. And a cheap vacuum tester can be easily found online. My suspicion would lead me to the top of the fuel tank first. It would be the most likely place for water to get in. Next up, would be the return line, the cap, and the vent. A visual inspection of these likely areas might provide a quick solution, with no tools needed. Let us know what the mechanic says. If he's unable, or unwilling to do a comprehensive test. You can do it yourself, with a little patience. It's very simple, and straightforward. But as Travis said, first verify that there's actually water in there.

Different numbers sounds like it might be for the different years, or different models maybe. Is this new from the manufacturer? Or a seller on Ebay?

Does the vehicle have more than one relay? On most cars, if there's more than one, you can interchange them from a known working circuit. It's been a few years, but I'm pretty sure that they can be tested fairly easily. I've always had good luck using the above method for diagnosis. I'd certainly want to eliminate all other possible causes before putting out the money for a new processor.

Have you checked all the fuses, or relay, specifically the one that provides power to the coils? If all is good there, and you've replaced the crank position sensor. That doesn't leave much in a no spark condition, except for the CPU.

TBH, I'm not the best when it comes to schematics. But the exploded diagram, doesn't look like the same component as the pictures. I don't see that bar, or any of the arrowed items at all, in the exploded version. I'm wondering if it's the correct diagram. It appears to be a front diff. Looks like some scarring on the right side of that gear in the first picture though. But I could easily be mistaken. Gearing always just works till it doesn't. Seals, and bearings, pins, and keepers of all sorts are used, and sometimes fail. When something has come out of place, and blocks something else. There's usually not any remedy short of major surgery. With the price of parts, and the labor involved. Have you considered looking into a salvage replacement rear end?

I assume that it's designed to not start while in gear. Has anyone thought to check that particular sensor? Or the seat sensor, if so equipped?

Travis has a great suggestion, as always. But let's remember that the Rhino, has always been an extremely popular machine. Lots of them out there. I'd think about pricing out a salvage yard engine. Something strange is happening in the OP's engine. And I don't like the sound of it at all. Why go all Sherlock Holmes? If a suitable donor can be located cheaply enough. With a suitable donor engine on the bench, swap, and replace parts as necessary. Use a different block at the least. I'd want to take a possibly unsolvable, possibly prohibitively expensive nightmare. Turn that into a semi-fun project. Yes, it'll still cost money, but this move should for certain end the mystery, and the drama.