kenfain

You should carry your multimeter on the mule. Next time it does it, test that solenoid again. While it's doing it. I still think there's a pretty good chance it's a bad solenoid. That thing getting hot seems suspicious, since everything else is pretty much new.

Have you checked the digital clock on the dash for codes? A lot of the models made in the last decade or so, blink the clock, and you count the blinks, to get the code. Others will display a digital number, that represents a code on the clock instead.

Any luck on finding a way to check for trouble codes?

I'd have to say that the starter amp draw seems normal enough. Sounds like it's not getting enough amps, when it doesn't start though. The solenoid has been changed, so there's really not much left. After you replace those cables, if the problem persists. You might want to take a look at that switch, and any relays that might be there.

They don't. Sorry, but as I said, I have no idea exactly how much it should be. But on my Honda civic, it seems like it wasn't a lot. I don't think a healthy mule starter would pull 60 amps though. That was my point about it might be too low for 60a. tester. But the 3amp, is more about it being useful for automotive needs. And there's not really any trade off on the higher end, for use around the house. So there's no reason not to. As long as it's one of these same knockoff Chinese junk. It'll be affordable. That capability in a major brand would be plenty expensive.

You really need one that measures as little as 3 amp IIRC. Looks like the one you linked starts at 60amp. There's no way your starter pulls anywhere near enough amps to give a reading.

Since you're replacing the cables, and you have a known good solenoid. That's a good starting point for finding your problem. You should be seeing that new multimeter soon. New parts, and a few quick tests, should start getting some answers. Unfortunately I have no idea what is considered normal amp draw for yours, (or mine either). You should be able to get that same information from the internet, or maybe the manufacturer, hopefully on their website.

They're on the wall by the batteries. Along with the battery accessory stuff. They're generic lengths, sold by inches. So know how long you need it to be.

They sell pre made cables at tractor supply. All different lengths. But marking the ground...that works too. Good luck!

It means that you need a new cable. An open wire ohm test, should be infinity, and is represented by all zeros. Doesn't sound like much resistance. But a cable with noticeable corrosion, could easily cause the problem that you've been having.

I'm still casting my vote for a bad solenoid.

I put an inline switch in the circuit, mounted behind the seat. So I'd have a good way to cut power instantly. Without having to pull the plug, I just reach back and throw the switch. Handy for portable lighting too.

The one on the more popular battery maintainer. At least the ones that I've seen, are the two pronged flat plug. Commonly sold at any auto parts. You can buy a decent harness, already wired with ring terminals, and a fuse. It's the harness sold by the battery tender types, as an accessory. They have em at Wallyworld, in the automotive battery section. Or the motorcycle section.

At this point, any reputable aftermarket parts outlet should have what you need. Very few of them are actual OEM parts. As far as exactly which one, I don't really think it matters. As long as it's different from the one you've been using. A roll of the dice is as good as what you've been getting. The OEM one likely has some sort of casting flaw, causing it to defeat the seal integrity. Unless I'm misunderstanding the problem. When you're talking about water pump problems. There's really only the bearing, seal, and impeller. So when identifying your exact problem, you just give it a spin by hand. If it's a bearing problem, it'll feel gritty when turning it. If it turns smooth but leaks. Obviously it's only the replaceable seal. Seal kits are readily available for most of those models. Just make sure that it's a name brand pump, and preferably serviceable. Full disclosure; I don't own a Textron, I've had some experience in water pumps though.

That's the way mine is hooked up. I rarely carry the sprayer anymore. But it uses the same plug as on my battery maintainer. So I plug that in through the sprayer plug every day. And with it there in the back, I'll always have 12v fused access to power. Handy for utility lights too. Keep meaning to instal a fuse block though. If I add one more thing to the electrical system, I won't have any choice. My battery terminal is maxed out.

The problem with finding a transmission to fit, is that it's probably fairly uncommon. So yeah, you could find a new transmission, but like you said, it's expensive. I can't imagine that there's too many donor diesels around though. You'd need a wrecked one at that. And it's likely a much different transmission from the gas models. You might have better luck finding a gas engine with the transmission attached from a donor vehicle. Which is probably a lot more common. But you'd probably want the wiring harness as well as the CPU. If it's an injection type motor. Marrying a different brand of transmission to your motor isn't possible with anything less than expert level skills. And probably more money than it's worth. But you might put in a motor, transmission combo. The fabrication skills are much less for that, although still a daunting task. Personally, I'd either cut my losses, and call it a lesson learned. Or use extreme patience, and keep searching for the right donor vehicle. Or you might try to find one that's running, and then you'd have a parts vehicle.

When you decide to go in, don't forget to post pictures, as well as updates. Good luck!

A fuse block is the best way. It's just a distribution box. Then you pull power from that.

After three pumps, I'd verify that the pumps are actually the problem. If so, then I'd look at the aftermarket pumps. What've you got to lose?

Welcome to the forum! Sounds like fun times in SD. Don't forget to post some pictures.

Try tapping on that solenoid next time it happens.

I figured you'd seen those. Just thought I'd mention it, with it being currently a topic. It was the moose that I saw. And something from Dennis Kirk, but I didn't click on it. It's probably all the same stuff. But since I didn't know which model, it would've been pointless to search.

@Travis, I was just over at partzilla. That's who I bought the radiator cap from. Because they were the cheapest. And I couldn't remember which mule you had, so I looked at several different mule starters. I have to say, those starters were much cheaper than I would've thought. Not denso, but not Ebay junk either. If you find that you need a starter, you should check in at partzilla. Might find a deal.

13. 6 is what it should read with the engine running. It'll be significantly less sitting on the bench.

We know that the starter works. And it's entirely possible for it to have internal intermittent problems. But with all that we know now. My money would be on the solenoid