kenfain

It was working after you took it apart. So I think the problem is with either the new solenoid. Or there's something going on with the starter. Possibly related to the recent disassembling. Probably not, since it was working. So I'd check voltage again, then put the old solenoid back on it, for testing purposes. Check operation again, see if it made a difference. But if everything else checks out, I'd take it apart again. Or replace it.

Yeah that's about what I'd expect. If putting the old solenoid on it doesn't cause a change. You might have to take the starter apart. Assuming that you have good voltage at the starter. I'd say that your problem is between these two things.

That could be caused by several things. I'd put the old solenoid back on it, and see how it does. That's the easiest choice, because otherwise it's likely the starter. Or whatever passes for a bendix in the starter you have. Make sure your battery has a full charge. On rare occasions I've had car starters do that when the battery was weak. Of course there were probably other factors involved too.

It's highly unlikely that the two problems are related. I'd deal with finding the leak, by using some simple green, and a pressure wash. You should be able to find the leak once you start it up. Unfortunately, you'll likely need to remove the skid plate to fix anything anyway. So you might start there. Personally, I'd try to look around first. Identify fluids using color of course, as well as smell, feel, and even taste. While it isn't pleasant, one drop won't kill you. You absolutely need to know exactly what's leaking. The hard starting will need more information. But assuming that it's cranking good. Just not starting. I'd check for weak spark based on the description.

Welcome to the forum! I've got a 2005 3010 diesel. And I have to tell you, it seems to be a rare bird. While I can't answer your question, nor do I have much experience with working on diesels. Mine was purchased new, and has seen exactly zero problems. However I can offer anything from any page of my shop service manual. It's a factory shop service manual, and is extremely detailed. Although certain details, like part numbers are somewhat lacking. You are welcome to any information that I have.

Anything more than an ohm is probably not good. And since it's a lot of trouble to get to. I'd probably take it apart, and give each item a closer look. Or just replace it all. None of those parts are particularly expensive.

As Travis pointed out, it definitely goes through at least one safety switch. And the relay also. But usually it's the big components like the solenoid, or the cables that would cause the loss of a volt. Although it could easily be the ignition switch. Or the wiring, or relay. With electrical you never know. That's why I suggest that you try the big components first. Next you'd have to chase the path that the current takes. Until you find the problem. When you energize that circuit, by turning the key. It should all be at battery voltage. Or extremely close to it.

Less is better, and it shouldn't be hardly anything. Voltage under load would amplify anything there is. So we're really shooting for no resistance at all at zero load. Unfortunately I'm not electrically inclined. So I look for resistance, and if I find any. I isolate it and replace the offender. My guess is that it won't be that easy. It never is for me. But if it turns out to be easily isolated. Just replace that, and you're probably done. But there's really only 4 parts involved, because the ignition wiring probably isn't the culprit. But I don't rule out anything. That really just leaves the 2 positive cables. One on either side of the solenoid. The solenoid itself. And the ignition switch. I'd expose that solenoid, and test the cables, and solenoid first. Then the switch last, because it's harder to get to. If it goes that far, maybe you can find a way to check it without removing it.

No there shouldn't be any drop. But nothing's perfect, so there might be a tenth of a volt at most. Say 12.5 at the battery, to 12.4 at the starter. Anything over 12.1 or so is good enough to pass. But would need checking, and would need dealing with. Anything over 12.3 could be overlooked for now. But remember that there's significant voltage drop when the starter is under load. And it's a 12v motor. So it's not pretty long term for it to drop below 12v at any time during the starting cycle.

Sometimes a good cleaning will work wonders. But I have doubts about this being a done deal. But on the bright side, I think you're narrowing down the problem. So that's a good thing. Now about that 11.5v. That's a bit low. And a continuous supply of 11.5v will overwork a starter. That in itself could easily cause the whole slow cranking issue. And will kill a starter in the long run. I'd check the resistance between the positive battery terminal, and the starter terminal. Unhook the battery first, and clean the terminals. Then check resistance. If the battery is around 12.5, and you're losing a volt. Then my guess is, you're looking at either a bad cable, or a bad solenoid. They'd have to be checked individually.

There's no reason why the wires would burn. There's no starter, and no amp draw, so there's no current. No reason for burning anything. With a bit of care, and some electrical tape. There shouldn't even be any sparks.

Wrap the test lead along with the terminal with electrical tape. So they're connected, or use some extra wire. You should be able to sit in the seat. Those leads are several feet long.

Assuming that you've checked it at the battery. Check it at the starter cable terminal.

As to the solenoid, you wouldn't need to test it directly at the solenoid. There's a perfectly good cable already attached to the lugs on either side of the solenoid. Check it on the other ends of the cables. In a no start situation, you might need to access the solenoid directly. But not this time. Checking the switch is a bit more involved, but only because there's at least three positions, and usually more. But for your issue, there's no reason to check to make sure the off, or on works. It'd be more about resistance, and checking for corrosion. Sometimes corrosion happens internally, like when you wash it, and get water in the keyhole. Over time, this can cause problems. Checking it is a very simple procedure. You just test each position, one at a time. Unfortunately this is probably best done with direct access. I wouldn't spend a lot of time on it. If the starter is getting what it needs. Then we know everything else is working.

Just saw your last post. That seems pretty cheap for a starter. Don't think a starter shop would do much with that. I'd probably replace it. Then I'd probably find out that it was the solenoid after all lol.

We already know that it works. So if it's not under load, then it's natural for it to spin like there's no problem. Check the shaft for side play. There shouldn't be much at all. Then you'll need to gently disassemble it, by loosening the thru bolts. Or at this point you can just take it to a starter rebuild shop. They should be able to find the problem pretty fast. Either way, I'd want to be certain that it's definitely the starter at fault though. It's extremely unlikely that they'll be able to fix it. Because they won't have the parts. But if they'll confirm that the brushes are bad. Then you might be able to find those somewhere.

Anything is possible. But I really have no idea. If it turns out to be the starter. Then just because this one went bad early on. Is no reason to think that the next OEM starter would be faulty. I seriously doubt that you'll find anything built more robust than OEM. Most aftermarket starters aren't known for being built well. I'd pull it apart, and look closely at the brushes, and bearings. Maybe there's a kit available?

I've come to believe that the most likely cause of your issue. Is that the starter has some kind of internal problem.

Every time I've ever tried that. It seems like all I get is lots of sparks, and aggravation lol. But yeah, if you can get to it. That's an excellent idea!

These days most of that stuff is pretty well sealed up. Getting to it could be a chore. To further your diagnosis of the problem. You might try lightly tapping on the starter, while it's doing it's slow starting thing. I usually use the wooden handle of the hammer. It needs to be a sharp rap, not a padded, soft tap, like with a dead blow, or one of those plastic hammer handles. But hitting it with the hammer head, or hitting it too hard can damage it. So be careful. Like I said, I really believe that this is going to be the problem.

Have you checked that the ground is solidly connected? Check all the plug connections for solid, tight connections. Including the solenoid, and ignition switch. Check the ignition switch for corrosion, and proper function. Really, all this is just making sure that you've covered all possibilities. Because it really sounds like a starter. They can get expensive. Personally, I'd check what I could easily get to. Then I'd pull, and disassemble the starter. Checking the bearings before disassembling. Then the brushes, they can have cracks, and such, long before they wear out. Most starters don't have shims/washers, but if yours does. Make sure you put them back like they came off.

I feel pretty confident that if you've tried a fully charged battery, that you have a different issue at work here. After all, wasn't this same size battery working just fine before? But I also understand why you'd want something with plenty of power. Nobody wants a battery that gives just enough.

If you're planning to use a deep cycle battery, you won't find those marked in cca. They're all marked in ah. Although there's no reason why a regular cranking type battery wouldn't work just fine. I'd personally stick with OEM. At any rate, if everything else is working as it should. There's no reason why you would need a bigger battery to make it start properly. But there's nothing wrong with having excess power, as long as you have the room for a bigger battery. I know what you mean about the conversion. I ran into the same thing. It's pretty confusing, to the point of being useless.

Sorry it took so long to get back, dunno why, but I haven't been getting notifications on this thread till now. You can test the starter amp draw with an ammeter that has a hold function on it. Typically it'll be a multimeter with a built in amp clamp. Just like those you've seen before. Only with a hold feature. That feature is usually found on the expensive models. But you can buy a Chinese knockoff for twenty bucks or so. Just make sure it works with 12 volts, at only a couple amps or so. Most are not calibrated that low. So you have to read the fine print on the specs. You'll be reading those anyway, while verifying that it has the hold function. They'll ALL read 12v. But it has to do tiny amp readings. That's the difference in the models. Clamp it on the positive cable at the starter, and turn the engine over. Following the directions for the hold feature, will leave you with the amp draw. Without the hold function, the numbers move too fast. So you need it to hold, at the highest number. That's your reading. I'm sure there's other ways to do it. An analog ammeter would probably work. I'm thinking that I read how to do it on YouTube, so Google the directions. Just to make sure that I didn't leave anything out. If it pulls too many amps, that usually means that your starter brushes are worn. Yours being relatively new, I'd guess it's okay on that. So if you can't borrow the tool, it's probably not worth buying just for that unlikely possibility.

Glad to hear that you have it all sorted out. I was going to suggest checking the transmission oil. If it has any, some do, and some don't. That's always a good place to start. But a cable adjustment would make sense too.