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hfrick

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Everything posted by hfrick

  1. hfrick

    hfrick

  2. sounds like you win... congratulations Hardy
  3. Im not positive on current pricing,you would have to check with Trevor or Karen at Mudslinger...but the elkas used to be around $1ooo a pair front or rear Canadian..so with our poor dollar around maybe $750 US..Im running air shocks on mine..not for everyone as they are a tad finicky,but Im pretty happy with the shocks/suspension mods for the last few years
  4. a little more pricey,but Mudslinger Motorsports in Alberta Canada sells custom built Elka I believe stage 5 shocks proto typed for,then manufactured specifically for the trooper t2
  5. changing out your turbo would be where I would start,have found contrary to Silverbullets experience that a turbo can and does work very well on the trooper.besides poor plumbing,and poor fuel control...the most common mistake is too large a turbo just my 3 cents...Hardy
  6. my experience with the trooper 1100 is that the header gave it a little more upper rpm power,but I prefer the manifold with a muffler,as it seems to help with bottom end torque and throttle response...just my 3 cents Hardy
  7. soo the last grind was a no go ?
  8. hey Jeff...is it hard to turn...or just lots of turns to make it go the direction you choose...we have had a few commandos show up with what we call knicker knobs...or tractor steering knobs bolted to the wheel,as it takes many turns to head it your direction...Hardy
  9. do you have manual/wiring diagram to follow? www.mudslinger.ca click on trooper,then click on manuals,should link to a copy of manual with wiring diagram...hope that helps...Hardy
  10. have been doing some reading and searching...does anyone have information on how/where/what parts to gear 5th taller...Ive read that at one time parts were supposed to be available,but have never seen or heard of anyone actually doing it...Hardy found a mention of a company in Mesa that used to have a kit??? no email,so will have to try calling in the next few days...anyone else have info?
  11. the wires meant that it had not been upgraded...depending on the damage,you may find your best value in purchasing a complete new rear diff..they generally have some sort of warranty...here in Canada Mudslinger.ca in your neck of the woods try,Prattville powersports took over from JMC and seem good to deal with,as you mentioned Silverbullet
  12. hfrick

    yup...stuck

    From the album: work in progress

  13. do these help? please pardon the dirt lol...its still too cold here to get it washed up...Hardy Kinarfi also figured out today how to put a few pics into my gallery
  14. I will try to take a picture in the next day or two...we flip and center the gasket on the intake,then mark/drill 3 new holes ..the center one is a bit#$ as its really close to the original...the end two locations we build a small bracket out of flatbar to carefully "pinch" clamp the ends....Hardy
  15. I dont cut and weld...leave adapter attached to head,flip oem section and redrill the adapter...the intake tract all lines up (as well as factory Joyner...lol) rotate throttlebody and remount throttle cable bracket...Hardy
  16. looks like the intake used on the buggies/and stock chery part...have tried on stock trooper...agreed with plumber,is a little too high for stock bracing...tried one on a bone stock powered trooper that had a modified rear cage,so height wasnt a problem...however unlike plumber,we didnt notice any real performance change (for the good,or bad) ...maybe helps with other mods?? my trooper, and any we have sold/modified,or turboed in the last few years have had the intake flipped...not for performance in the n/a ,but to get tps,iac,throttlebody up out of the dirt,and ease of other maint...Hardy
  17. I hope is a misunderstanding .. and that he gets back to you and settles up...as much as I like to trust fellow members,Ive learned (on dootalk not here) that there are many dishonest peeps out there...I still do cash/e pay of some sort before I will send anything...also at $200 for a rear diff,that was almost a gift already...Hardy
  18. answer is very dependent on what brand/style of turbo is being used...the use of a restrictor is very common on ball bearing turbos,and some journal bearing turbos ...without the restriction,when oil pressure increases,the flow into the turbo can exceed what the drain can get rid of causing the oil to push past the turbo seals and smoke really heavy...I believe the common restrictor size for garret turbos is .065...as a side note,we have noticed a few of the chinese turbos running without any form of restrictor,that definitely effect the troopers oil pressure (lower it) just a link I found to show 1 of the styles Oil Inlet Restrictor - .065" hole size 1/8" NPT (for Journal bearing and larger GT BB) : atpturbo.com
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